SOLD: Sacrifice's '93 Integra K20 Swap DA9 Build

i dont think its the hood itself to be fair. i think its more an issue of body alignment. the driver side is above the fender and it was like that on the old hood too. idk if the hinge is bent?

 

time to compare the hinges. Has the car been in an accident before?

 

to my knowledge no, but i wouldnt doubt it at this point. no reason to have a car repainted from isle green pearl to black otherwise. shitty job at that cause its flaking in spots.

 

remember this nasty carpet?

well i finally gave it a simple green bath and air dry in the heat. Used 2 cans of duplicolor vinyl and fabric black spray paint and it looks near new again. installed in the car now and it really pulls the interior together again. i just need to trim around the roll bar to fit.

ECU got relocated to the glovebox instead of the foot well. i didnt like the idea of it being stepped on possibly or getting wet.

 

Might have to try that stuff some day.

 

some reviews say it gets vacuumed up but i took my shop vac to it today after putting it in. zero issues. i obviously made sure it was as clean as possible before i dyed it to

ill try to remember a follow up post in a couple months

 

JDM Type-r conversions on an integra I still like. I never did like the JMD ITR conversion on the front of a civic though..lol

 

yeah i would do it if i had a dc2.

installed quick latch ql-38 tonight. i wanted to install them on the edges but the headlights prevented that. super easy install.

 

that's purty k-engine.

 

Working on mine slowwwwly. T-bar cut out of the teg, however I'm separating the full support from the JDM front, leaning towards full support swap, not just T-bar.

 

whats the benefit of the whole thing vs t-bar?

 

T-bar is the quick and easy method. Maybe 15 or so tack welds and four cuts. However, if you have any OCD/perfectionist qualities, overlaying the T-bar onto original metal and welding it isn't going to make you happy.
Also the JDM full support has two additional brackets per side for the headlights. I'm trying not to have to deal with the alignment on transferring those over individually. People just swapping the T-bar might not even be using them. That would bug me. I had to search high and low for the proper fender brackets, so I'm using every bracket I can.
I've seen some pretty shitty panel alignment on some swaps so that's another reason I'm taking the long route.

 

right on. should turn out well with the attention to detail

i keep having my traction bar bolts back out. ive lost 2 now on the driver side, one specifically yesterday as i heard it smack the bottom of the car. which then proceeded to cause the car to drive a little sketchy with the bar flexing back and forth.

ill try red loctite but almost debating about welding the bar to the chassis? i cant see any reason not to honestly

 

You could also pick up a drill jig to drill holes in the bolt heads for safety wire.

 

Tie Wire Tool

 

yeah ive thought about that too. i already have some for my motorcycles

 

@BadBrains @danteisme

either of you interested in a k-tuned gold shift knob?

 

No thanks, I paid too much for this and can't use anything else now.

 

Thanks, but i rock the OEM one. Its my favorite shift knob. I think I still have my weighted Skunk2 somewhere in the garage, but my preference is still the OEM one.

 

nice

forgot your b series as well. i always preferred a weighted setup on those with the linkage.