SOLD- SR/SR5 BHLM Retrofitted Headlights - Price Drop

For Sale: OEM SR/SR5 headlight retrofits, all mounting tabs intact. Pictures of the low beam cutoff/hot spot and high beam are below. These are a proper HID retrofit, resealed with Morimoto retro rubber.

Retrofit includes:

• BHLM - Flat black
• RX-350 projectors with STi-R clear lens upgrade
• Profile switchback halos
• Smoked side markers.

The sale includes everything necessary for an HID retrofit.

• Generic 5000k D2S bulbs
• H9 battery relay (brand new from TRS)
• Morimoto 35w ballasts
• D2S igniters
• OEM High Beam, DRL/Turn Signal and Marker lights

The only thing not included are the high beam splitters. These are bi-xenon projectors, so separate high beams aren't necessary.
These were one version I was working on while retrofitting my own headlights and I decided to go another route. So these retrofits were never installed on my truck. There are some small paint imperfections that are hard to capture on camera. The headlight lenses are used, roughly 3,000 miles so they are in good condition.


Asking $600 + shipping, OBO

Located in the Bay Area, CA for local pick up.



Low Beam


High Beam

 

looks nice! good luck with sale

 

Bump

 

When you say, "...The only thing not included are the high beam splitters. These are bi-xenon projectors, so separate high beams aren't necessary..." Does that mean that the main headlight is both high & low beam? So a "Y" harness is needed to send the high beam power to both the main headlight and the original high beam? Sorry, but I'm not very familial with the super upgraded headlights, they've always been outside of my budget.

 

Yes, the headlights are bi-xenon so they are high and low beam. You would just need a H9 splitter, you could build one easily or buy a couple for < $20.

 

I know these are sold but I have a question. If you are running the white halo as your DRL, what happens to the original amber one on the stocks.

 

You can remove it completely if you want to just utilize the halo as the DRL and turn. If you do this, you can actually grab a factory 3-way connector and control your halo with the OEM DRL/turn, parking connections. So you eliminate any splicing or t-taps.
This is the option I went.

Another option is to put a switchback bulb in to match the halo.
https://www.vleds.com/shop-products/v6-triton/v6-triton-wa.html

Or the easiest is to just run your OEM DRL/turn with the halos as amber to match.

 

I saw one of your posts where it looks like you ran an LED strip. That one looked real nice!

 

Thanks, yes, I used 12" Diode Dynamics switchback strips.

 

I think the best bet is for me to get a switchback bulb for the DRL/turn. in theory the DRL function would be white (matching the halo) and the turn would switch to amber (with my halo because I got a halo switchback)

 

Another question. What features do I need to look for or pay for when buying lights in general. I understand paying for quality but are there any specific features that will make or break one option vs another when it comes to the DRL/turn switchback?

 

If you have an SR/SR5, you'll need to tap the rear turn signals for your switchback bulbs and halos if you want to run white DRLs. If not, you'll have both amber and white leds on at the same time since the SR/SR5 DRL and turn signal are combined in one wire.