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Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Supra TT, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. Aug 15, 2013 at 7:44 AM
    #2261
    bulhas

    bulhas the habs fan

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    i make things cook Marshmallows
    however I did just find out!!!! exciting!!! i can import a vehicle into canada that is lifted if its older than 15 years!!! Bring on the searching, this just opened my doors SOOOO much more
     
  2. Aug 15, 2013 at 7:45 AM
    #2262
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.


    [​IMG]
     
  3. Aug 16, 2013 at 7:02 AM
    #2263
    bulhas

    bulhas the habs fan

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  4. Aug 16, 2013 at 7:08 AM
    #2264
    rockgecko03

    rockgecko03 Well-Known Member

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  5. Aug 16, 2013 at 7:09 AM
    #2265
    bulhas

    bulhas the habs fan

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    i make things cook Marshmallows
    Yah I'm having a hard time trying not to convince my self it's necessary
     
  6. Aug 16, 2013 at 8:54 AM
    #2266
    J88logue

    J88logue NorthWest Member

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  7. Aug 16, 2013 at 9:08 AM
    #2267
    Darthyota

    Darthyota Well-Known Member

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  8. Aug 16, 2013 at 9:51 AM
    #2268
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    Jacob
    Winston Salem, NC
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    fj60 front, full hydro, 5.29's, locked/welded, twin sticked 2.28/4.70 duals, 39.5's, inboarded 63's
    So I might be getting a decent job soon and I might SAS and pick up another DD if I get it. If I never plan to go bigger than 37's would a 44/9 combo be a good choice? Also is it really that much harder to link it? Leafs would be simpler and cheaper but if it's not my dd I could take the extra time to do it right.
     
  9. Aug 16, 2013 at 11:46 AM
    #2269
    Supra TT

    Supra TT [OP] Solid Axle FTMFW!!

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    Eric
    Lafayette, Indiana
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    SAS.. Need I say more.
    I run 37s on my truck with the D44/9 combo... If you ask anyone that I wheel with, I beat the shit out of it, But then again, it's built all chromo... It's not "harder" to link the truck, it's more time consuming. I would link the front and leave the leaf springs in the rear.

    In just the D44 alone, I have over $3k worth of parts. So you may want to look at what it costs to build the same D60... A completely built D44 is still not as strong as a STOCK D60... you can shave the D60 and get better clearance too.
     
  10. Aug 16, 2013 at 12:04 PM
    #2270
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    Jacob
    Winston Salem, NC
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    fj60 front, full hydro, 5.29's, locked/welded, twin sticked 2.28/4.70 duals, 39.5's, inboarded 63's
    I don't plan on beating the hell out of it (right now). My goals if I do it would be to maintain streetability and to have it be reliable. At least nothing would break with 60's on 37's though and all I would have to do to the axles is rebuild, regear, flat top knuckles, and hi steer instead of going full chromo. Also did you have to go hydro with 37's or did you just do it to make things easier? I may just look the 60's since even though I don't plan on it, I would always have the option to go bigger. I'd hate to go 44/9's and then want to go tons later, no offense ;)
     
  11. Aug 16, 2013 at 12:36 PM
    #2271
    Supra TT

    Supra TT [OP] Solid Axle FTMFW!!

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    SAS.. Need I say more.
    I went hydro because my original setup was fubar. So I just went with the next best thing. :D

    If you don't plan on beating on it, leave it IFS until you cannot further benifit your wheeling. Get some 35's and get some lockers and wheel. SFA is spendy. :D
     
  12. Aug 16, 2013 at 12:58 PM
    #2272
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    I'm learning this the hard way
     
  13. Aug 16, 2013 at 1:05 PM
    #2273
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    fj60 front, full hydro, 5.29's, locked/welded, twin sticked 2.28/4.70 duals, 39.5's, inboarded 63's
    Ha yeah I know but I really enjoy the building of everything which is one of the reasons I want to sas. The possibility of getting this good job is why I was considering it. I may just stick with IFS for a while and copy Slodghetto since I'm halfway done with his rear setup anyways haha. Then save the tons for more fun down the road.
     
  14. Aug 16, 2013 at 2:15 PM
    #2274
    99yodataco

    99yodataco Little Taco that could

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    New Mexico, it's just a little bit fresher.
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    Dana 44 front and some other useless things.
    If you do by way of Slodgetto, make sure you have many spare CVs and manual hubs :D just an FYI. He had my old CVs when he broke the CV and the hub at the same time on Z Turn on the Moab Rim Trail.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Aug 16, 2013 at 2:18 PM
    #2275
    Konaborne

    Konaborne Pineapples on pizza Hawaiian does not it make.

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    this is all that I read




    now that you found bedsides I have to use what I can...
     
  16. Aug 16, 2013 at 2:40 PM
    #2276
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    fj60 front, full hydro, 5.29's, locked/welded, twin sticked 2.28/4.70 duals, 39.5's, inboarded 63's
    Haha nice. Neither one of those are too bad to replace. On 37's though something's gotta give.. and I'd rather it be cv's and hubs than r&p and spiders
     
  17. Aug 16, 2013 at 7:06 PM
    #2277
    downpour11

    downpour11 Well-Known Member Vendor

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    1996 4runner SR5 4x4 - 419,000 miles, 14" Spacer Lift
    It's a perfectly fine choice for what you say you'll be doing with it. I agree with Supra - 3link the front and leaf the rear. Linking is EXPENSIVE. Look up the cost of tubing, heims, bungs, joints, rod ends, etc. Then you have the welding and fabbing the brackets, or you could buy brackets... which are expensive.

    As Supra said, with building just the front axle (a dana 44), you'll be at least $3k into it. If it's a DD, definitely go with a selectable locker so you won't be chewing up tires... yup they're around $1k a piece. Then go pay someone for install, unless you know how to setup ARB's and gears correctly.

    I say run stock axles til you start breaking them. After two... prob grab some chromos and start upgrading.

    Figure building a D44 and a 9" is around $6k-7k (w/ selectable lockers f/r)... tons done right? probably around $9k.... +. That's just for axles.

    I went with a HP Dana44 and a 9" because I bought them as a package deal from a friend already built who switched to tons. This brought me right up to speed with starting the build. Mine is a DD, this is my first SAS and holy fuck it's expensive. BUT, it's been a ton of fun and a great learning experience. It opens up a whole new can of worms.

    Decide whether you want tons or not, because if you want to switch to tons later on... everything is going to be different and you'll basically be starting all over.

    You'll read a lot of people saying, "no way I can do it all for $5k." ..... build your truck and let me know how much it costs in the end. I've tallied up my costs and I don't even want to look at the total.

    Also, if you're going to be running 60's, you'll want to be running at least a 39.5 for clearance.

    Food for thought :notsure:
     
  18. Aug 16, 2013 at 7:48 PM
    #2278
    downpour11

    downpour11 Well-Known Member Vendor

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    1996 4runner SR5 4x4 - 419,000 miles, 14" Spacer Lift
    Made some progress. All lowers are in and the front upper is in. Rear upper goes in Monday then we're onto the coilover towers...
    Don't mind the front upper in the pic... it wasn't done when I took the pic.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Aug 16, 2013 at 8:32 PM
    #2279
    thegame

    thegame WUT?

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    FWIW, I built my 1 tons for about $5k. That includes everything: ARB's, 5.38 gears, armor, steering, replacement parts like spindle bushings, bearings, brakes etc.

    The leaf sprung Waggy D44 axle swap I did on my last truck was about 6k total but that was with Lockrite lockers front and rear, 4.88's and basic stuff to get it driveable (it was chopped on Saturday and drove to In-N-Out on Sunday evening :D ) Leaf springs are way easier and far less expensive! My build total will be around 10k when this truck is done, that's with links up front, ORI struts and Trail Ready Beadlocks.

    I would say everything depends on what your use is for the truck. If you want a more streetable truck, and don't wheel too hard, go D44. If you plan to wheel harder and see yourself going bigger and better later down the road, go 1 tons. There are people that have 37's on a D44 and some have 37's on 1 ton axles so tire size isn't really a good indicator to go by but more so your intent for the vehicle.
     
  20. Aug 16, 2013 at 8:35 PM
    #2280
    downpour11

    downpour11 Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Luckyyyy! That's pretty cheap. You setup your ARB and gears yourself?
     
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