Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Maybe I shouldn't use the term "Junk" I will say not up to par as the other manufacturers of axles for us.

Also, Chris, it says right on trail gear's website how wide all their axle housings are.

 

They are completely different housings really in design. I personally think the other housings look better. I don't think TG's housing looks good. To each their own I suppose

 

I don't know how the Trail Gear housing are because I've never seen one up close and personal but if some of their other products are any show of the craftsmanship that goes into them then it isn't good. The six shooter knuckles that I ordered for my axle was pitiful... still rough metal with burs and everything still on it. Not to mention the piss poor customer service when dealing with my steering shaft/joints.

Then again the housing may be great... but I'm with SupraTT on this one. If it was in the market for a custom housing Diamond would be at the top of my list. I haven't heard anything bad about them and the more I read up on them, the more I like. They also have a good look/design to them. The Trail Gear housing just seem bulky and look like they would get hung up.

Just my two cents.

 

So as a guy about to make some moves on rebuilding an axle, this is awfully discouraging to read that TG has questionable products. Sure no one is perfect but some are consistent. Would I be better off with all pro hysteer over tg? I am confiding a lot in opinion for this process because I would rather buy once, cry once instead of buy cheap cry twice.

 

I run a set of rock assault axle housings and the tg chromoly shafts on my 91 toyota, never had a problem with them... The only thing i dont like is the breather leaks.... The only reason i got them though is b/c i talked a guy down to 500 for the housings, shafts, rebuild kits, and a complete third with 5.29 gears and a Detroit...

 

I'd say their steering is fine. I just wouldn't use their axle. It's meh. Ruffstuff and diamond have the name for custom housings IMO.

 

I updated the 88's build thread. Really in dire need of your guys' input on this one concerning hy-steer.

 

http://www.marlincrawler.com/steering/high-steer

Get everything you can from marlin. Great products and a good company.

 

x2 I really liked the axle re-build kit, a lot of quality parts for a good price. I also enjoyed doing business with Inchworm. The guys up there have amazing customer service, very helpful!

 

Good looking out guys, I appreciate your input. I am considering running AP leafs doing SUA front/rear. What opinions can you all give me on that idea?

 

I ran allpro springs on my 85 4runner and thought they were good. Not sure why you want to go SUA. With spring under you get less axle wrap but you also have more to get caught up on and have less lift to fit larger tires.

 

Still on the fence about the SUA idea but just figured it would provide some more room to flex. Odds are I'll just go SOA and call it a day. What is the preferable locker to run from a stand still ? I am torn between powertrax and a truetrac in my research. Would powertrax F/R leave me unsatisfied? It's just hard for me to wrap my head around dropping $1000 + dollars into lockers.

 

Are there any identification markings on birfields that would tell if they are oem or aftermarket?

 

I would not cheap out on the lockers


If anything make your front selectable and than go cheap the rear

 

I'm the other way around... most of your solid axles have manual hubs. I like having the selectable (e-locker) in the rear for driving on the road and a lunch box in the front. I did a Spartan in the front and I haven't had any issues. I also had a Spartan when I had IFS and once you get used to it/learn how to work it you will not have any issues.

BUT that's just personal preference and everyone has their own opinion. If I had the cash I would have done a selectable for the front as well. Just didn't have the $$$, spent it in other areas

 

Well I am now running into a new expense issue. It is looking like for what it is goung to cost to rebuild the hubs, I could get new knuckles. Back to the drawing board.

 

From what I know.. all aftermarket birfs have stamping on them stating they are aftermarket.

If you do anything cheap, just weld the rear, most rigs do it and if it's not driven on the road, its really no big deal.

Hubs should be fairly cheap.. What are you thinking for a rebuild?

 

yeah my longfields said they were on the birfs.

on my 85 i had a lock rite front and detroit rear not too expensive and it worked great. drove on the road just fine too.

and as supra said hubs should be pretty cheap.

 

I found the stamping on the birf's but not sure what it means I will get a picture tomorrow.

The Johnny locker idea came and went with the wind. I'll bite the bullet and probably go mechanical front and rear. I have this nightmare that just cause everyone says nothing has failed on their ARB locker, when I do it, it will. At the worst possible time.

Two hubs will run me about $400 bucks. Unless there is somewhere else I should be shopping. The one's on the axle now are absolutely not worth salvaging. I don't have the first clue of what components are which and what purpose they serve (which is the point of this build; to find out). So I guess I am in a little bit of a panic mode because I don't know what else to buy after the hubs ie. birfield c clips?

edit: To clarify the $400 (for two) on the hubs those are Toyota OEM replacements from Marlin Crawler. I just found Warn hubs on Auto Parts Warehouse for $212 a PAIR. Thoughts on the Warn hubs?