Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

crazy how you have way more money into your rig and run a smaller tire as well.

 

Same size...actually... Both 4Ds

How much money you think you got into it Rctoy?

 

yup you're right I was thinking of a different build on here. need to pay attention.

the difference is due to my 18 inch travel coil overs and me not cutting up my body ill have to trim it a little but that's about it.

 

but since I opened my big mouth im $4,800 into the sas as of right now and still have front and rear lockers to go with an atlas ontop of that.

 

Not bad. Are you running stock axle shafts and knuckles?

 

at the moment yes but im sure after a break and outer or two ill upgrade to RCV's

im on 40's now but built it with enough room to put on a 44 and not have to cut the hell out of my body.

 

Well it's not done by any means but it is sitting on its own weight... Profender neglected to ship me back my dual rate spacers but...

28" frame height on 40s with about 4.5" up travel.

 

so that puts me 2 inchs taller than you at the same up travel.

 

He's got a little more engine to clear then you do

 

I don't think clearing the engine was a concern for Konsta. I think he limited his up travel so he didn't have to put the shocks through the body and could get more down travel.

 

this in all honesty if I want I can change my upper links and make it a true 4 link then cut up the body and drop the ride height down to what your running cuz I don't have a giant motor to clear but as of right now im building using my design and im getting some damn good flex with out having to butcher my body and the extra frame height in the snow is what I want. im 1" taller than I wanted with 2.5" less up travel not that bad for building using shoe laces as a measuring tool.

 

just so you understand one more reason I want to be tall. cuz I get into shit like this to often

 

add'd in a sway bar this weekend I figured half my steering issues where due to the fact that I don't have rear shocks yet and my suspension is way soft.
Result was it's stable at 70mph but it's getting trailered down the free way anyways.

Aslo got to check my millage and my in town millage hasn't changed still pulling 15mpgs really really happy with it.

 

Just cuz I love fucking with my truck im going change to a 4 link. Add change my 2.5 ram to a 2.75 ram.

 

How about you wheel it first! Building is fun... But wheeling is more funner

 

^^^this! Haha. Gets your gears and lockers already!

 

the ram is getting changed cuz they sent me a ram with a loose piston and it fucked up the cyl wall.. so if I have to rebuild it might as well upgrade to something with more power. probably would have got that to begin with had I known at the time they offered it.

as far as the links goes well I know im going to wheel it before I switch it over but it's going to happen no matter what. also going to add a artec axle truss in. it will make it easier and cleaner to air bumps and the triangulated upper links. and just like everyone else said my pan hard bar is ridiculously short. simple fix is 4 link it will cost me a maximum of $400

 

Larger cylinder means slower steering response, just FYI.

 

Yes I know it will add 1 full turn to the rotation lock to lock. Im ok with that thing is a bit twitchy at high speeds so I think it will work out. Thanks for looking out though.

 

Not sure where the extra money is...air bumps maybe? Lower link brackets? $100 extra dollars to build a burly frame out of 2x3 3/16 wall? Doesn't cost any extra to cut into the fenders either. I bet my 40" Nittos are taller than your MT/R's anyhow. I also don't need a sway bar since, well, my truck is lower Best MPG I've seen so far (I've put 3,000 miles on the swap since the beginning of June) is 15 and it was mostly downhill and freeway. It's typically anywhere from 12-14. I see 12mpg when I'm driving to Tahoe.