Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Ok, I can do that. I'll set up the bump stops after I get the 63's put on, then go about figuring out the shock length I'll need.

How about the angle of the shock towards the centerline of the truck? Leaning them in slightly should help keep the tires out of the shock. Instead of putting the top mount directly over the lower I can bring it towards the side of the bed, just outside the frame rail. That would be somewhere around a 2-3" offset, top to bottom. I could bring it in further, but I don't know if that's needed.

 

Yeah If you can get a little angle in it would help keeping the tires off the shocks. Also give you a little wiggle room when flexing. If you tuck them tight to the frame like so ll when you flex you might contact the frame with the shock body.

 

Sounds good to me.

Looks like I'll bee ready to start phase one this weekend.

 

yeah you are right I always angle them to have max travel with out bottoming them out but where as he has a lot more weight to deal with 100% dampening is important.

As close to the inside at the top as possible and as close to the backing plate as possible is what you're saying??

 

That's what I'm getting from it as well. Should I angle the upper and lower brackets to be in line with shock? It won't be much of an angle, but should keep things from binding.

 

Not really sure what you're asking there. This is how I did mine, and I know i'm a lot lighter and a first gen but I have no issues with these cheap Pro Comp shocks at the angle they are at.

 

I was talking about the traditional double shear shock mount, like these.



If I'm going to mount to the back of the axle housing and lean the shock inboard I will probably be better off using a bucket type mount like this.

 

Go for the bucket off the back of the axle. Buddy just swapped 63's into his tacoma and uses all of his 14 inch bilstiens. That with the shocks angled 25 degrees under the bed of the truck

 

Straight up and down, tilted slightly back and behind the axle. Make sure you have one mount parallel to the axle, and one perpendicular to avoid binding.

 

So... I might of found some 40" treps on racelines for sale that I put dibs on

 

I approve! Hopefully they will actually make it on the truck unlike the sc... lol

 

so my girl friend said what if you roll your taco. I paused for a minute then took a swig of JD and said then I guess we custom build a tube frame and keep it low and fast the second round.

 

Lol love it!


So some one tell me if I'm wrong because this sounds pretty simple. And really surprised hardly anyone's went this route with the fj80 radius arms axle and all.

So far I'm looking at:
Fj80 axle
Track bar and mounts
Radius arm and mounts
Fj80 drag link
Fj80 steering box
Psc pump
Pre taco tcase
Adapter
23 spline conversion
Coil over buckets
Coil overs


Of course I'm leaving out all the rebuild kit and what not but this is the main stuff that will be on the truck. Just seems to simple to me... No math configuring suspension set up or anything.

 

shock mounts for the frame?

 

Doing coil over buckets and running either a fox or a foa 12" coil over

 

my bad. I saw coil over bucket and my mind deleted the over part of that.

 

I looked into it, and was swayed away by friends who have 80s. The radius arm setup on the 80s binds up pretty good, as do most radius arm systems its an inherent limitation of the design, and in order to fix that you may as well just build a wristed radius arm, 3link front, or even leafs. I would personally save some $$$ and just put regular coils and shocks on it, you will never even come close to maxing out the coils with the stock radius arm system and will be wasting some $$$ IMO.

I would do some reading over in the land cruiser section on pirate, and read the ih8mud 80 forums before making a final decision and seeing if you want to accept and be happy with those limitations.

Take it with a grain of salt i guess, I'm working on a shackle forward leaf spring setup in my head using slider boxes or shackles for my SAS...

 

Radius arms do bind up but this is more a dd than a wheeler right now. I can live with a little binding with more flex than ifs.

Eventual plan is to three link it but that will happen when time and money allows. Right now I'm just trying to make this a nice reliable set up that Is nice on the road, decent off road, and fairly easy to instal.

We thought about going coils but by the time you make coil buckets, shock hoop, get a decent shock and then figure out what coil you need you come up roughly 2-300 bucks short of just getting a coil over. Plus figuring out what coil you would need would be a total nightmare.