Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Yeah mine was setup so that there's 3" of slip showing at ride height. Should work great and have a ton of engagement at all times. At ride height it's like 36" from flange to flange.

 

Damn, my ride height I think I have about 2" shaft showing (after its rebuilt), though I only have 5" uptravel and my shackles are really flat. Before when I drooped out it would lose spline engagement... one of the reasons why I am also 3-linking it... no more 50 foot fucking pinion change and axle movement. It tended to pop out too under axle wrap - which will no longer occur with 3-link. My flange to flange is only 30.5" though.

 

Ya you'll like having links. My stock driveshaft bolted up and at full droop, the splines barely show.

 

Played around with the link calculator some last night. Plan on running 126 wheel base on 37" tires but how are you guys finding your cog?

 

This was a huge help when I started studying for link suspension.

http://www.4wheelunderground.com/Suspension-411.html

 

Yeah, I've seen that and read part of it but I have to read things 2-3 times to understand it lol. And haven't had time to set down and read over it yet lol

 

Well then this should make that look like a breeze!

http://users.isy.liu.se/fs/frisk/tmp/iQDrive_Articles/Parameter%20and%20State%20Estimation%20in%20Vehicle%20Roll%20Dynamics.pdf


Looks like the link for CG in the other link is dead, as well as from various other sources. Can't find much info now!

I knew my CG prior to SAS only because I got high-centered on the belly a few times. It's obviously changed now but in any case, I'm putting all the weight I can underneath and keep the unsprung weight as light as possible and balanced evenly front to back. Hell even my entire floor, firewall, and console/dash will be aluminum.

 

I was told about the top of the bell housing bolt is COG? I just put it at about 2" below that. So at 36" or so.

 

Honestly I wouldn't even worry about the floors. That should be below your cog. I know in our cars at work we fill the frame rails with tungsten blocks and nearly every bolt above the bottom of the drivers seat is titanium.

 

Damn I hope I don't have any issues with with. I took the truck up there so he could see it and take measurements and that's what he set it at. The guy has a great reputation in the local offroad community so I took his word for it. I guess I'll find out in a week or two when I get the rest of my junk and put it all back together.

 

Every truck is different. I also have a d44 and a lefty, that all changes things. Plus, I'm at 125 wb. Not sure where you're at? Stock rear location. My front suspension has been ghetto for awhile too... You'll be fine.

I just checked, you have a dual case... That explains it!! Haha

 

dual cases help so much when it comes to drive lines. unless you have a jeep.

 

I'm at a 127" wheelbase. I should have the truck back together tomorrow unless I decide to build some diff armor.

 

Feel like I'm having to re-invent the wheel with my sas lol

Having to do half of a fj80 3 link and half tacoma sas.

steering… well thats just turning fun lol

 

Simple solution.....

won tons

 

lol that why you did them?


Its ok lol Im doing something thats not really ever been done lol well not that has been well documented at least

 

I did a D44 because I was that retard that was all like "nah man I don't want anything bigger than 37s"

 

Im gonna run 37s until I get RCVs, then according to them I can run 40s+ but 40s is as big as ill go I'm sure lol

 

Just wait till you get tons. Thing will have 42s on it before you know it.

 

And you are learning why the people that have considered it (fj 80 suspension) changed their mind once they dug into it!