Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Trailers are stupid!!!!!!!!!!! Until they save your ass.

 

Haha what'd he break?

 

Been there

 

if they do nothing but save my 42" pitbulls for wear they are worth it.

 

Caliper mount fell off on the front axle and fell into the rim where it was scrapping the wheel. Sure, could of drove it, but also could of worn a hole into the rim since it was a 10 mile drive and no braking on the one side would suck!

 

Or...I could have pulled it and stuck the plug I had in the brake line.

This was faster and dinner was getting cold. Nice try though

Another 1000 mile trip on the books. Drove there, drove back.

 

Heres another shot from the weekend

 

Lol...love all the leaf comments...been a link guy for years and toyota off road race trucks...jeeps linked etc...

Now on leafs...

I'm 125Wb or close 27" frame on 40s and even on 37s walked all over the nasty stuff at hammers. ..see no reason to link yet..want to cause I can but no justifiable reason....

I have ran whoops hauling and been airborne several times jumping it....yes I've flopped but that was cause I said screw it and made a line....

Leafs are good..been thinking about bringing em in a few inches as well and outboard the bypass in rear...stiffen front

 

I'm off tomorrow so I should make quite a bit of progress on my inboarding.

 

I want to see it....I am thinking about it as well just notch frame for shocks to be more outboard.....

You can do eeeeeet......lol

I just replaced a pack I broke a leaf and the rest were Hamered bad....but inboard would have prevented it..and longer shocks aren't needed..

 

Hypothetically for an SAS, are you more likely to destroy a front or rear driveshaft? I assume the rear since they're usually longer and thus more exposed to impacts. But I want to see what the consensus is, so I can make the necessary mounting accommodations for a complete spare.

In hindsight, I should have positioned the drivetrain and suspension in such a way that for the sake of simplicity and spare parts, the lower links and driveshafts front and rear had identical lengths.

 

I have wayyyyy more rash on my rear driveshaft but I'm also a little longer than you at 127". I've only hit my front shaft once but I've destroyed a rear and rashed up my new .250 wall shaft bad first trip out. I also have a 1 piece and not the factory 2 piece.

 

got called up for my first recover since I got the truck all put together. Lets just say I saved the guy but if im going to keep saving fullsize guys I need to get my rear mount winch installed so I don't get drug to them all day.

 

My factory shaft has been nice being its out of the way the bearing seems to be holding, has some play but not bad...I wanted to do a 1 piece but your comment is why I haven't....
I'm going to have a custom rear (back half) with replaceable joints made and just keep some joints on hand...love how tucked it is....

 

when I did my new rear 1 ton drive line I kept it 2 piece because they are way more forgiving in the rocks and with damage.

 

So the plan was to inboard the springs 3" per side and shorten the wheelbase 7". I wanted to shorten the frame 7" as well so I didn't have a bunch of frame hanging out past the shackles but now that I've got it cut apart it seems dumb to not link it and tube the rear. So the question is... how hard is the geometry to get right on the rear? I've never done anything similar so I'm pretty intimidated to do it myself. The original plan was to leave it leaf spring rear and eventually 3 link the front but I want to consider my options while it's in its current state.

 

It's actually really easy. Much more so than the front. Are you wanting to run a 3 or 4-link in the rear?

The link calc on pirate will get you in the ballpark or at least give you an idea what to expect from your setup. I'd start with that and mock up links with PVC pipes.

I played around with mine for awhile until I got a setup that did what I want. Which was basically keeping the links nearly flat at right height, keep the pinion pointed at the tcase through the full length of travel, and have minimal driveshaft slip.

 

Do the inboard, we need a guinea pig

 

I appreciate the tips but I have thought about it some and I think I'm going to just inboard. I decided to do the smarter thing with my money and pay off some old debt so I wouldn't be tempted to spend it on things like this haha.

You got it! Going to get some lunch and pick up some metal for the front hangers now

 

Yeah that's definitely a good idea, I did the same thing!








































Wait... no I didn't...