Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Depending on the area.... I'm not on crack, but if you find some local Dana 60's for $600 I'll buy 5 of them today in Sac. If it's that cheap where you're at bring some over to Sacramento Ca! I'll get 5 @ $600 and you can sell 10 more @ $1,000 in a week. That's some good money you and I can both make
Edit: I agree about them being overpriced but it's all about market value! You can have a $5 item but if someone has to pay $1000 to get one it's worth that

 

I got premium for $1.91/gal TN last weekend. It's around $2.10/gal here.

 

Need a dully rear axle.

 

Well your pic leads into my question. What size trailer is comfortable to tow our trucks on. A 21 ft be ok or need something longer? Or will an 18ft be fine?

 

I tow mine with an 18ft. With it on the trailer where I want it I have plenty of room in the front to add a toolbox if I decide to.

 

I'm glad that question was asked, I've been wanting a trailer now for a while to put my Tacoma on, and would like the smallest one possible. I was thinking I could get away with a 16 ft. trailer. I'll be pulling it with my 06 double cab Tundra so they lighter the trailer is, the better.

 

You can definitely get away with a 16ft

 

I'll post of pic of mine loaded up on my 18' this evening

 

26' is the bare minimum

 

Haha, 26' is a bit tight sometimes though.

 

I know

Kicking myself for not buying a 30 or 35'. I can't carry a second rig when the taco is on the trailer. But that's ok, I'm shopping for a camper to go up front anyways.

 

Here's 104" wheelbase on a 16'. It felt a little cramped.

Go measure your wheelbase/tire length/overall length. Then leave some room to move the load front/back to get the tongue weight over 10%.

 

Rig details: 95 Tacoma 3.4 V6, 5-speed manual, stock chain case with 4.88 gears in the axles on 35's

Tech question...

Finally got to wheel on some rocks and realized that my gearing is nowhere where it needs to be to function properly. There were multiple times where I stalled and rolled backwards toward other trucks, trees, and people. Definitely not cool in my book.

This is why I always preferred auto over manual but I know that I just don't have the correct setup. I thought about converting to auto to make things easier but that is a very big job when it comes down to it (finding a donor vehicle, engine harness, body harness, ECU, good trans, etc....) which could cost big $$$.

I swore off dual cases in 2010 when I blew them apart twice in my Tundra (yea I know, a bigger, heavier, more powerful truck that maybe shouldn't have had a mini-truck reduction box in it to begin with). Should I trust that setup more behind a much lighter, less powerful truck?

Or should I just go Atlas 2 and say fuck a budget?

 

Two options.
1. Brake throttle modulation
2. Atlas

I'm currently geared the same as you on 35s so I know where you're coming from. I was just out at Windrock and ride some sections where I wished I had more gear as well.

 

Ok guys im pulling a blank. What ball park do i need to be for anti squat in the front and why.

Thanks,

 

I think duals would hold up just fine in your truck. They are doing surprisingly well in mine besides snapping a 21 spline input (which I've been waiting on it to pop since I got it). I went to 23 spline in the rear case and have been wheeling it like I stole it. I think my next weak link will be the rear output but those aren't nearly as common of a break as the input.

 

I think duals would be best or an atlas 4. I find that I use regular low a lot between trails and 12-1 a lot when it gets really technical. I'd miss the selection with just a 4-1 range. Duals are wayyyy cheaper and easier than an atlas but you did mention fucking a budget

 

atlas 4 sounds nice. I am by no means in a rush to get one, so I may just save my pennies for one of those. Might as well go all in I guess

 

As promised. 118" wheelbase on a 18'

 

Thanks! I think I could definitely get away with a 16'