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Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Supra TT, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. Mar 30, 2016 at 8:29 PM
    #6941
    SnowroxKT

    SnowroxKT Well-Known Member

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    When installing my axle shaft and long fields, do I need the compression c clip? I've heard both ways but don't want to blow anything up...

    Edit: Running it, I'll try and find another for the other side since I broke that one coming out of the donor axle.

    ee9aa795584ecded7139ed1961d38a97_1dd2fa26787156d417ed2cd25e0e7cc294c0e4bf.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2016
  2. Mar 31, 2016 at 6:22 AM
    #6942
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    fj60 front, fj80 rear, full hydro, 5.29's, welded, twin sticked 2.28/4.70 duals, 39.5's, inboarded 63's
    What's the argument for not running it? When you go to pull the shaft and birf out the birf would just slide off the shaft and you'd be left with like 2" of shaft to try and grab to pull out.
     
  3. Mar 31, 2016 at 8:44 AM
    #6943
    SnowroxKT

    SnowroxKT Well-Known Member

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    What I came up with.

    For not running it:
    1. Not necessary (not sure about this...)
    2. I already have a locker, so the axle shafts won't slip into the diff too far. (Only half the reason to run them anyways.)
    3. If axle shaft breaks off inside birf it's hard to get out

    For running it:
    Stops the axle shaft from migrating too far into the birf causing failure
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2016
  4. Mar 31, 2016 at 8:57 AM
    #6944
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    fj60 front, fj80 rear, full hydro, 5.29's, welded, twin sticked 2.28/4.70 duals, 39.5's, inboarded 63's
    I doubt you'll ever break the shaft, the birf or the gearset is always what blows up. I don't think the shaft can slide too far in the birf. The birfs blows up when they are put in a bind at too much steering angle.
     
  5. Mar 31, 2016 at 9:20 AM
    #6945
    SnowroxKT

    SnowroxKT Well-Known Member

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    If the axle shaft can't slide too far into the birf I dont really see the point in running it. If I can find one locally though I'll run it anyways.
     
  6. Mar 31, 2016 at 10:08 AM
    #6946
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    Just thought of something. The axle shaft has a smooth place the the axle seal seals on. With the clip installed the shaft won't float around allowing the seal to ride in the same location on the sealing surface
     
    SnowroxKT likes this.
  7. Mar 31, 2016 at 10:30 AM
    #6947
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    You have to run that clip, it prevents the shaft from binding and the inner shaft from stripping out. The clip thats optional is out by the hub.
     
    Gear Head likes this.
  8. Mar 31, 2016 at 10:43 AM
    #6948
    RPS1030

    RPS1030 Well-Known Member

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  9. Mar 31, 2016 at 12:47 PM
    #6949
    SnowroxKT

    SnowroxKT Well-Known Member

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    So many opinions over on pirate... so much "I've done this and it worked..."

    For me:
    1. Air Locker prevents axle shaft from going too far into the differential (I tried this without the Longfields to check, and the axle shaft stops before the splines reach the sealing surface)
    So, martacking seems pointless to me.

    2. My axle shafts do NOT have two places for c clips. They only have the one the diagram above shows as optional. I installed the short side last night and will try to find the "optional" c-clip for the longer side. (See above picture for reference, post #6949 in this thread.)

    3. I am planning on running the c-clips holding the Longfields out against the brass bushings.


    So I will be running all c-clips that are available to me on my setup ymmv.
     
  10. Apr 4, 2016 at 8:44 AM
    #6950
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
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    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    this makes 2 trips to Moab without breaking a single part.
     
  11. Apr 4, 2016 at 8:45 AM
    #6951
    3378jakesr5

    3378jakesr5 AOF, trucks, guns, repeat....

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    Better to ask what I have not done.
    well that comment was the kiss of death:facepalm:
     
  12. Apr 4, 2016 at 10:30 AM
    #6952
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    time for upgrades anyways lol.
     
  13. Apr 7, 2016 at 6:06 PM
    #6953
    malburg114

    malburg114 Well-Known Member

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    Getting close to being done with the truck and will be getting drive shafts made here pretty soon. Whats everyone using for the rear? A one piece or 2 piece? And whose using a slip yoke on the front?
     
  14. Apr 7, 2016 at 6:13 PM
    #6954
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    Personally I'd run two piece and the slip yoke at the axle end. Better ground clearance over a one piece.
     
  15. Apr 7, 2016 at 6:16 PM
    #6955
    malburg114

    malburg114 Well-Known Member

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    I agree about the ground clearence but have heard of people having some bad vibrations with the two piece so curious to hear what others are. Trucks still my dd for the most part so want it to be comftorable to drive.
     
  16. Apr 7, 2016 at 7:20 PM
    #6956
    toyotaguy34

    toyotaguy34 Member

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    I have a 2 piece in my 01 double cab and have no vibrations.I am solid axle and use a long spline front driveshaft and all works well.
     
  17. Apr 7, 2016 at 7:56 PM
    #6957
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    Two piece in the rear. Jess at hi angle driveline talked me out of a one piece when i did my crawler. No highway vibes either. I never even kissed the driveshaft until i swapped in the 80 axle and it was no longer protected by the gas tank. Now its dented to hell.

    Stay 2 piece.

    What do you mean by "slip yoke in the front"?
     
  18. Apr 8, 2016 at 5:39 AM
    #6958
    malburg114

    malburg114 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, not a slip yoke. A long spline set up for the front.

    Did you guys have anything special done to the 2 piece?
     
  19. Apr 8, 2016 at 8:30 AM
    #6959
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    The only thing special was i got the first (closest to the tcase) shaft shortened locally for the crawler, that's it. I'm going to need to get the rear part re-tubed and straightened now but that's more from the 80 axle and losing the protection from the gas tank. If you are really worried, i would get the carrier bearing to axle shaft re tubed at a local shop with some thicker tubeing and run the two piece, and go buy a bunch of beer and tanks of gas with the money left over.

    If you have a rear shackle setup up front, you will need a long travel/slip front shaft.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2016
  20. Apr 8, 2016 at 8:39 AM
    #6960
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    I'm running a TG long slip in the front and it works great. For the rear I'm running a .250 wall DOM 1 piece shaft with ridiculous joint angles lol
     
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