Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

In my area the chev D60's are more expensive. why ditch the warn hubs? I don't think that a low pinion D60 is stronger than a high pinion D60 Going forward that is.

 

That sux for that guy. Many stories like that unfortunately. Always a good idea to pop the cover of an axle before buying...cause you never really know what's inside

Around here the Chev D60s seem to be cheaper. I think it's because there are lots of Jeeps around, and when guys go with 1tons they look for Ford D60 as those are driver drop. Higher demand for the Fords I guess..

I considered going with a Chevy D60, but I wanted to keep the tranny and tcase I already had in my tacoma. So I ended up going with a Ford D60 kingpin with a bunch of upgrades. Being high pinion gives a tiny bit more clearance plus the pinion points up at a really good angle from the get go. It's more axle than I probably need, but it gives peace of mind to know that an axle is over-built.

About the warns...hard core guys around here on 1tons and big tires seems to destroy them easily. I have personally seen a couple grenated to pieces. The hub body on the Warms seem weak. But some guys say it is good for the hubs to be the weak link as it is easier/cheaper to replace them than axle shafts, rign/pinion, etc. Everything has pros/cons I guess.

Anyway, I decided to go with Yukon hubs 'cause that's what guys seem to be running around here nowadays with zero reported failures. They are a bit more $$$ than the Warns but have a ton of beef. They also seem a bit more recessed also than the Warns. I would probably be ok with the Warns, but got carried away with upgrading the axle. Oh well...

Now all i need is to get started with the SAS

 

You know you've found a keeper when...



I love the way the truck wheels with the wheelbase cut down to 113 instead of 122. It still climbs really well and you aren't slamming reverse all day every time there is a turn in the trail. Plus the truck is even lighter now and I love having a light rig

 

Its easier to recover off the rocks being stuck as well!!

 

This is true. How do you guys feel about 98 supper 60's?

 

When did you hit the badlands?! Looks like she's having fun!

 

Went out last weekend with the Land Cruiser crowd that's really a mini truck crowd at heart. 2 FJ40's, FJ45 SWB, and a few mini's too.

She's a trooper to come on all the wheeling trips including a weeklong trip of primitive camping in the Ozarks at Flat Nasty. She can only drive it in 12-1 low since she can't drive stick though lol.

Fuck, I had the stupidest stucks last week. The right rear is about 4 feet off the ground in this picture with the whole truck resting on the traction bar

 

After reading this thread for almost 2 years, this is the best comment I've seen.

 

anyone here order the TG kit C? I need to know if I need to order the hub studs and spindle studs. The TG site says I need them but they also say that I need steering stops but the kit C comes with them. There are some studs in the kit but idk what they go to lol This is all new to me. I'm about to order this stuff in the picture to finish the axle build. If anyone has any insight or a cheaper solution to these parts I'd be much appreciated. Thanks

 

You'll need the spindles and the studless hub kit or hubs and lock outs.

 

Look at front range offroad, they have alot of those parts used for cheaper. You could also find used outers for cheaper than that on ebay.

 

Built a new rear drive line and upgraded the slip yoke on the front shaft

 

Feels good to have the truck sitting on an axle, even if it is temporary. These springs flatten'ed out WAY more than i thought, she is going to be a low rider for sure! Up travel be damned! The axle is going to be moved about a half inch more forward so the diffs not fighting the oil pan and ill need to get the steering linkages under there after i set the initial castor to see how much they will be fighting with things under there. I think ill be ok, snowy disagrees.

 

I think your draglink and oil pan will rub like an undersexed monkey unless you bumpstop it way down

 

Most the way through way swap but how do I determine where to mount my IFS steering box?

"Desired location" is what the kit instructions say. WTF is that?

 

I think I need to move the box further forward to get the drag link and tie rod more parallel. Sounds good, anyone know for sure?

 

if you plan on moving the axle forward, push the steering box as far forward as you can, probably have to notch the core support as well. That'll keep the tie rod and drag link from binding at full stuff.

 

At steering centered position the draglink should be perpendicular to the frame. Position steering box so it is.

 

John and myself were discussing this, he said just let it pivot on the dog toy bumps and call it a day. I will know later in the week, i need to move the axle forward on the perches and then hammer the knuckle balls on there, assemble the knuckles, the steering and start moving shit around and see what hits what. If the draglink hits the pan ill just move the steering box down a bit, ill be running a flat pitman arm so ill have some flexibility with that.

 

Anyone need a 35spline D60 locker? I pulled my Spartan the other day to make room for my ARB, Spartan still looks new! Shoot me a PM ;-)