Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

poor guy. i'm over here working on year three with not a single broken part since the sas and not regretting running a dana 60 14 bolt combo one bit.

 

He realized the err of his ways. He also broke his 14bolt twice. Radius arms put alot of stress on axles lol.

 

Hey bud here is the pictures. Sorry about this morning. I know tons are stronger better but thats not what was needed for this build. Buggy project will have tons and 42s so there was no need for this truck to need them. It works for me and that all that i care about. And im at 18.5 not 19.5 now

 

don't even know what i'm at anymore.

 

There is a pretty easy way to find out.

 

A number.

 

you win the prize!!!! though it just made me think i should measure it. i aimed for 31" but my rear springs have settled a lot and i dropped the front to match.

 

Damn, that's low for 37"s. Leaf springs will do that for you. I know you have resisted it...but I see links in your future So much easier to adjust and maintain ride height

Yea whatever LOL. Start breaking expensive shit and that old saying becomes irrelevant. Just one blown ring and pinion with locker and you will not want to do that wash cycle again.

Exactly!

Good point. Having wide ass axles is the way to go with a tall rig. The stability is amazing.

 

Nah not on this truck.

 

Like these shiny fucks?

 

Unless you are made of money, rebuilding those shiny things gets expensive very quickly. But if that's your definition of fun then it's all good

 

oh it's so cute.

if you know how to do it your self and have all the tools it's not bad. i rebuilt mine in moab on the car trailer one year and even after over nighting gears to moab it still only cost me $320. just the same i would have rather not broke my truck on my only vacation i took that year.

 

the wide 1ton axles bring stability, so i guess tall can work out well. I think mine was at 27" the first time i got it on its own weight after the swap. It will probably settle at 25" once the suspension is dialed in. The coilovers can drop another 2" easily without much trouble, and the rear springs will settle as well. That's on 40"s

That's awesome if you can set your own gears. Definitely save ton of $$ that way.

 

so on 42's aired up in at 30" but i air down to 7 PSI (trail pressure) then it drops to 26.5" but still have that 88" wide and 131" long base, that combined with the suck down winch so it wont unload and it's stable as hell.

Edit: point i was making is this massive argument broke out about being low and it doesn't even matter as long as you know your rig and wheel it accordingly

 

I know right!

 

I agree. The trend now is to see who can build the lowest rider on 40"s!

I think it matters more on leaf sprung vehicles with light and narrow axles - lat least the tall ones i've been in. It gets scary at times because they are so tall and light that you get off camber and typsy with any little obstacle.

Links with wide and heavy axles tend to keep the tires on the ground more and provide more stability. So it is not as important.

Either way, if you are doing hard core rock crawling there's no way that tall is better. But most of us are not into that stuff anyway. At that level people build buggies that never see the highway anyway

 

Whats up with evreyone being scared of off camber and tippyness? Thats the funest part of wheeling! Hill climbs scare the shit out of me much more than offcamber.

 

Most trucks are longer than they are wide IE they are more likely to roll sideways than going up something.

 

Yeah thats low for sure, so since it settled, how much shaft is showing at your shocks? Still no way 6 up, pinion would be through the upper oilpan. Im not trying to discredit, just trying to see where the extra clearance everyone else has been missing out on is coming from. Its not just the smaller pumpkin on the D44 either. The underside of my frame rails are notched as well...

 

QFT brother...well minus the hillclimbs, gotta love the 128 wheelbase lol