Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Junk, should have left it at home instead of wheel weak ass Toyota stuff

 

Not the newer 05+ superduty that I've seen.

Go 8 lug and just swap the sterling into the rear with the leafs/shocks now then tackle the rear.

 

Building 9s to keep the weight down, I was just planning on running the stock rear for a few seasons.

 

You want weight low which is what axles will give you. Plus a stock rear sterling is cheap (at least around my area)

 

Damn, you got a great run with those originals longs. RCVs are really awesome. You'll never break those. Which they weren't so expensive for the D60s

so let's get started....had he gone with 1 tons that axle shaft snapping could have been prevented hahaha LOL

I got the yukon ones in mine. Pretty good stuff for the price seems like.

Good advice. Or go the tried and true D60/14bolt combo. I don't understand the obsession with the 6 lug thing that many people have. It is just simpler to keep the 8 lug pattern with these projects. 8 lug steel wheels are cheap, and the factory D60 brakes are more than adequate for your average wheeler.

And what is the ultimate super amazing benefit - in the large scheme of things - of shaving a couple hundred pounds off each axle? I think some people take this axle weight stuff out of proportion in the context of recreational wheeling. For professional racing like Ultra 4 stuff, then hell yea. Every pound you can shave off while keeping an axle strong counts.

I think there is a thread buried on pirate where people where posting figures of weight differences between custom 9s and reg D60s. I don't remember what the numbers were, but jeez, it wasn't that huge. I mean, it's not that your custom 9s will be 1,000lbs lighter per axle compared to a regular 1tons.

BTW, have you built your 9" axles already, or are you just playing with the idea? Have you really ran the numbers for those price wise? That is probably the most expensive route you can go when it comes to axles.

When I ran numbers before i I got my D60/14bolt built; the front alone was gonna cost me 7 grand

 

Finally posted pictures of NwiTACO's rig. Took my sister and brother-in-law out for the day to introduce them to offroading. He knows how to put on a show. haha

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2005-bulletproof-taco-1-ton-sac.223362/page-91#post-13856989

DSC00424 by Jonathan Krajnak, on Flickr

 

I have ran tons before and they are very heavy. I daily drive the truck and play in the snow and the sand a lot and the benefits of being light weight makes up for being low on power. The front 9" would be anywhere from 60lbs-350lbs lighter fully dressed than a fully dressed stock 60. The difference comes from 3rd member choice, and cs/knuckles/hub setup. The fabricated cs/knuckles/and unit bearing are 54lbs for both sides.
That is stupid light compared to stock 60 stuff. Not to mention the ground clearance saved with a 9" on 37s vs tons on 37s.

I have priced 9s and am okay with the price for the quality parts I'd get.

I'd feel like I was shorting myself building a set of tons for it, it isn't just a crawler, it is an all around rig.

 

Lesson learned!!

 

Ahhhh...I see. Well, that makes sense. My bad, I keep assuming that everybody that starts dumping money on a SAS has crawling as a primary goal; in which case having heavy ass axles is not a big deal. But if you are jumping around sand dunes and doing crazy stuff on the snow; well I guess a light weight rig is the ticket

 

So in an effort to get rid of this nasty ass frame, here's what I've done. I build a set of stands that hold the body 5" abouve the frame rails. The stands are butted up to the frame and cab mounts. I ran a piece of 1x1.5 angle iron along the top edge of the cab section of the frame. THis will give me a reference point for where the top of the frame is (currecntly 36.5" off the ground. The stands are welded together at the base (passenger to driver as well so they can't move). I'll pull a bunch of measurements before I start cutting so I can verify everything when it goes back together.

I also built a stand out of scrap with adjustable arms to hold the core support mounts that I hacked uff the original frame. This sets the frame width at the front of the frame horns.

Plan, as of now is to set the front frame sections we've already made to the appropriat height. Cut the cab section of frame out behind between the rear cab mounts and drop it out of the way. Using the "jig" I've constructed we'll replace that section of frame with more 2x4 box. Once its in place I'll weld in supports for it to the stands and can start working on replacing the rear of the frame


Not the ideal solution but with some careful measuring and a little luck I think it'll work.

 

I wanna see an SASd taco with stock size tire on it

 

@3378jakesr5

 

Ouch. Bro ouch.

 

I kid I kid

 

Good thing I planned on upgrading to chromoly shafts cuz I just grenades a outer so hard it blew a hole through the hub and little piece keep falling out. Lol. Still made it home 3wheel drive on almost bald tires. 3#'s of air pressure for the win.

 

Impressive!

I still can't believe how long you wheeled with that factory stuff, considering the amount of abuse you have put those axles through

Never met anybody that got so much out of stock D60 shafts and big tires for as long as you did.

 

yup i got lucky and it worked too because i just barely got the money together to order the Chromo kit. could have gone cheaper and got usa standard stuff without the super joints but why cut corners now?

 

exactly

Good timing too!

I think getting the chromo shafts with the super joints is money well spent. The super joints are really beefy.

Once upon a time I thought about getting RCVs with their cool looking red plastic boot...until I saw their price for a D60

 

the price isn't what's really holding me back there. The reason i decided to not go RCV's is I don't feel any Ujoint bind or pull with full hydro steering so no need for a CV joint and the boots for those things don't seal up to well in really cold weather and have been know to suck in water when rapidly cooled. Like driving around in 4wd all day then droping though a creek. Last reason is i don't think ill need the extra strength. It took me 2.5 years to break a factory 30 spline stub shaft doubt ill ever break the 35 spline chromo stuff. Plus the super joints are rebuildable which is a plus.

 

Very true on the RCVs. In the southwest I am not concerned about cold/wet weather issues with them.

They price was a deterrent for me LOL. At the time I looked it was close to$2,400-600 (maybe they are cheaper now????). I wasn't going to dump another two grand plus on my axle build at that point just on shafts. Their strength is probably overkill though as you said. Originally I thought that would be literally the last axle shafts I would ever need to buy plus the extended range without binding was interesting.

I have heard of people breaking 35spline chromo shafts on a D60 but I have actually seen it in person. I would guess it is extremely rare.

With the super joints, BTW, I was advised to simply apply a bit of grease with the provided mini grease gun every couple of wheeling trips. Apparently this alone will make them last for a looooong time.