Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Are you gonna keep the stock rear axle? Is it an E-locker rear? My experience, and I think others will agree, is that the rear in the second gen is the weak link. I grenaded mine on 33s. I know a bunch of others that have as well. I haven't fucked up a CV yet, or even wheeled with anyone that has in a second gen. We've bent tie rods, control arm bolts, blew a bunch of bushings but haven't lost a CV yet. The rear ends seem to be a ticking time bomb though.

 

Don't bother with getting a double cab bed if you are going to bob it anyway. You can bob the front and rear of your bed to make it work instead of trying to sell your bed and find a double cab bed.

No need to cut and splice the frame, just lop off the extra in back and get creative with locating the bed mounts if you can't reuse the stock locations.

Get spring hangers and shackle eyes from Low Range, Ruffstuff, etc and burn them all in. Just measure how far away your front hanger is from the rear and shift it forward how ever much shorter you want to go. Tack it in and check the shackle angles before burning it all solid though.

1992 F150 rear tank all day between the frame. Bend the float 180* to get the sender to read right for the Toyota gauge and you are good to go.

 

No e locker. 8.4 that will get a Detroit, 4.88s and possibly a diamond housing since he is only like 45 minutes away.
I'm not worried about the stock cv shafts in the ifs or the differential for that matter, just don't like everything else around it.

 

Its going to handle like ass compared to IFS.

 

How do you figure? Every jeep I have built or TNT Customs has built has driven perfect without ifs?

 

Oooo lucky. I wish I was that close to Brian's shop! I do have a 9.5 diamond coming for the rear of my '85

 

Just trying to make sense of all of this. So you're building it mild cuz you only wheel mild but you have bead locks

 

Good info. Thanks. Ill have to go look and see where the spring hangers will fall and if the gas tank will have to be moved. None of this will happen till after Moab in April but wanting to start to get an idea. Im thinking somewhere around a 115" wheel base? Probably not much longer than that.

Do all the lines for the f150 gas tank match the toyota tank?

 

I'm a touch shorter than WB that but you will have to move the tank to shorten it any amount worth while. It is right in front of the axle and it is nice to not have a rock anchor of a tank...Mine held like 13 gallons when I ditched it.

I can take a picture of mine, all the hard lines end right at the back of the cab. I reused the stock breather and evap vent lines, just tap a barbed fitting in or drill a hole and weld a nut/fitting in for it. I got some fuel line from Napa for the supply and return lines. Just slid them over the hard lines from the truck and onto the fittings in the Ford sender and hose clamped them on. It seems a little sketchy but its worked perfect for about a year and a half now and a few friends have done it the same way with no problems either.

Found a picture in my build thread
Snowy's Swapped 98 Xtra Cab

 

Thanks for that. Re-Re-reading your build then I will get back with more questions haha

Edit: didn't see it but using Chevy 63s? If so, where does your front spring hanger land? Right behind the rear cab mount?

 

I play in the snow and sand a lot. Single digit tire pressure makes a mild trail a comfy trail.

 

@Snowy

I was thinking something along the lines of these two

 

I'm on old school 54" Downey springs so my front hanger lands right where the frame levels out. I tacked my spring mounts on two or three times before I was totally happy with where the axle landed with weight on it.

You can see pretty well on the white one that you can just buzz the front bulkhead of the bed off and bob it just like you would the rear. Exactly where you cut will depend on where the mounts are for the front so that way you don't have to get crazy trying to fab up new bed mounts. I think the lines work pretty well and should be easy to pull together.

It sucks to have to spend the time bobbing a bed twice to get what you want, but you'll be money and time ahead unless you find a cheap DC bed locally. Out in NV it may be better than around here though, I've never actually seen a double cab in a junkyard in the midwest...

 

Sounds good. I'll do the springs just how I did last time (set, tack, cycle, repeat lol) and find where I want it. I think they look pretty cool all bobbed out with the small bed. Throwing around the idea of making a tub/bed with tube and sheet metal/wood snd having the bed sides bolt on so I can take them off on harder trails. Like the look of the bed sides and tailgate so will try to keep that as much as possible.

No tacomas In the junkyards only 4 runners but I met a dude st one who gave me a number to a guy that has a private lot of all toyota junk. 79-current crap and he let's me dig through it all the time. He has several double cab beds and the only reason I though if using one but will probably just Bob mine.

Thanks again for all the great info. Adding a f150 tank to my junkyard to get list along with an elocker for the front lol.

 

You can get an f150 tank new for like 30bucks or so. At that price its not even worth looking in a junkyard for one.

 

They are a bit more than that with a sender. $166 from Rock Auto. P/N: F1G1FA
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...39,fuel+&+air,fuel+tank+&+pump+assembly,17130

Tanks run about $65 with no sender if you want to fab up a setup to make your Toyota sender work.

 

Is the F150 tank going to be a primary fuel source or auxilary tank?

 

I think i paid like 30 something for mine from parts geek.

 

Primary. It fits between the frame rails and supposedly hooks right up

 

So you're not running single digits for traction you're doing for ride. YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG!!!! You air down for traction. If you need single digit air pressures then you are not doing any mild wheeling MmmmK pumkin.