Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

That's really cool. Thanks for explaining it. Learning something new everyday

To be honest, as cool as that option would be in a rig, it does not appeal to me at all. Personally, I do not think I would have use for it. The front digs with the Atlas is more than plenty to turn around tight spots and I don't like adding stuff that I don't really need. If you think you will be needing it...why not add it to the build?

Also...I don't see how the tcase will be as expensive as the LS swap. The ls swap if done right will be a shit lot of money, way more than the tcase...unless of course you just find the engine from a scrap yard, swap it without even look at it and hope for the best

When I do an engine swap...I will save my pennies until I can afford a crate engine. Might sound more expensive at first, but it falls under the category of do it right, do it once.

Glad to hear you are ok man. I think with some creativity you can turn that thing into an awesome SAS rig.

 

Thanks. Yeah I'm gonna shoot for super lightweight. Should be a fun project

 

Wait so you're doing an atlas? The rear line lock mode is stupid cheap and easy. it cost me a total of $50 i can only use it for 1 minute but it's amazing for holding the rear brakes. Having said that you will rarely use the front digs to make a tight turn. it's easier to just throw it in reverse and do a 3 point

 

I have an atlas already. I was just replying to sgcap; he was the one talking about the break line lock mode thing.

 

oh gotcha

 

Crate motor wont be happening. If it was something other than an LSx I could see it. But the LS motors are too damn cheap, plentiful, and easy to work on to be warrent crate motor money. I've found used LQ4s for about $2500 and a rebuilt 4L60e trans for 12-1500. I figure another $1500 worth of bullshit to get it in and running. Then whatever a Tcase costs me.

 

I dunno man, engine swaps tend to be like SASs. You always end up spending twice the amount of the original budget

To each his own i guess. Everything has pros/cons, but with the numbers you quoted you are already at 4 grand and that's not including incidentals or any hidden surprises you might find.

And if you decide to start upgrading stuff and doing a full rebuild...oh boy...

 

Yep...Cause Basketcase. And if and when I roll it, I'll have the beginings of a cool buggy

Truth be told I started playing with LS1s way back in 99 when nobody had much experience with them. Two of my buddies at the time had LS1 F-bodies. One was the first LS1 Car in Texas to go 11s, 11.5s and 10s, to our knowledge. I got out of the drag car scene not long after that but I've always wanted an LS swapped something. So yeah, buying a crate motor doesn't make much sense for me cause I know I'll wanna tear it apart and screw with it. Cause Basketcase

 

LOL! Yea Basketcase deserves it all

 

My buddy has the manual version of this on his truggy
http://www.trail-gear.com/product/5156/rear-disconnect-kit#.WMxn3oFHaEc

 

Interesting product, though I can see some people bitching about the fact it is air actuated and prone to fail lol

I like the concept, but by the time you add the money spent on duals with all the bling, plus another $772 for this plus another air compressor if you don't have a big enough one already [or air tank] you are way deep into Atlas territory price wise which comes with built in mechanical drive line disconnect for both front/rear.

 

Need your thoughts..
I plan to be SAS'ing in 2 years but also will 3 link the rear. Is there any downside to running a 2nd gen tundra rear axle (10.5" diff) and a diamond up front? Then convert the hubs to 6 lug. I just haven't seen anyone run a tundra rear axle

 

more expensive parts and the strength isnt near what a dana/14 bolt will hold

 

I don't want a 14 bolt, not going over 40's and you can easily run those on a Dana 60 (9.75" ring gear) without a problem

 

14's bolts are the standard, parts and lower prices everywhere.

And ring gear size is only a minor part of overall axle strength

 

then go for it. i just think there are better options

 

Put an FZJ80 rear in and you've got a true one-ton Toyota axle. 9.5" third and full float.

 

Why not do a full floater conversion on the tundra?

 

Hey it's your money blow it how ever you want. Just share lots of pics.

 

Because there are shit locker and gear choices for them.