Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

the tank is nice for setting beads (tbh ive only used it for motorcycle tires though to do that). the 450h is also 100% duty cycle so not really a worry there. just depends on how much of a hurry youre in when you air up i guess

 

kinda what I was thinking too...

good to know and I appreciate the info!

 

I paid $330 shipped to my doorstep. I played the CO2 game got old having to fill the tank and pack the heavy fucking thing around.

 

The tank is also nice cause it gives the air a chance to cool and you can run a moisture trap in front of it. Those little portables put out a surprising amount of moisture. In Hawaii anyway...
not a good thing if you are running balance beads.

 

I don't see a 480C listed anywhere for less than $200 a compressor....

 

$486 VIAIR 480C Dual Air Compressor for Air Suspension (2 Pack) 12V Continuous Duty Cycle Compressor for Air Tanks, Bags, Air Horns 200 PSI (Pewter)

https://www.amazon.com/VIAIR-480C-D...TF8&qid=1494441630&sr=8-2&keywords=viair+480C

 

I stand corrected. But I'll still rather save $300 and stick with a CO2 setup.

 

Dual Smittybilt compressors is about the same price. If we are talking about shortest time to air up, dual Smittybilts with a small tank would air up a 35 in around 2 minutes. Viair is constant duty, and may have higher efficiency for air tools though.

 

haha very true... Its all good man I have thick skin, plus I live in Comifornia so I'm accustomed to people judging without asking questions Anyways yeah the rear axle is diffidently coming out, I'm actually looking forward to seeing how much abuse the factory axle will take. The factory rear axle only has link tabs welded on it... Sooo pretty easy to swap out. The rear cantilever setup/cage was designed to easily swap the rear axle with only requiring new link tabs welded on. Who knows maybe I will replace both with PROROCK 60 and call it good

 

I didn't buy them for their speed i bought them for reliability. As far as air tools goes i would never use them on trail i have cordless impacts 3/8" 1/2".

I have front and rear ARB's so it makes sense to use compressors to activate. before my truck was ever built i did the CO2 thing and used it to air up tires and run my air bags with a regulator on the way back from cali i developed a leak in one of the air bags and the whole tank was gone half way home so the truck started to lean i Installed air compressors and replaced the air bag and when the other bag developed a leak it didn't matter the compressors just ran more.

 

14bolt and spend the thousands of bucks you save on something else!

 

Haha, true. You better have thick skin over there or you won't survive haha.

Keep using the rear factory axle until you figure something else. Who knows...if you don't wheel like a maniac it might last you for a long time.

You and I finally agree on something LOL

When people go the 1ton route, yea, the 14bolt is a no brainer.

However....if you really "build" a 14bolt, then it will still cost you some money no matter what - though a fraction of any custom axle.

Typical 14bolt build:

Price of the axle...(older model cheaper, late model more expensive)

Add gears and locker plus labor....[if you don't do it yourself]

Add shave kit...

Add disk brake conversion...(older model only)

Add parking brake....(older model only)

Add labor for the shave job... (if you don't do it yourself)

Add brake lines...

Add diff cover...

Add 14bolt to toyota flange...(if you want to keep your factory drive shafts).

So it adds up and you are over a grand easily.

Now, you can do it really cheap by getting an old school 14bolt, keep the drum brakes, skip the shave job, install the locker and gears yourself, etc. Grand total: $150-200 for the axle + gears and locker.

But then you have an axle with a huge pumpkin that requires at least 42"s to get any decent clearance and huge drum brakes that work but are not as nice as disk brakes.

I went with a later model 14bolt, those have disk brakes already from factory and ebrake.

 

You are an idiot if you keep drums on a 14bolt and if you need to pay someone to do the shave job or anything but the gears, you should not be owning a SAS truck.

 

I still have drum brakes. They work good enough but disk are on the list.

 

IDIOT!

Sarcasm font in the extreme

 

Save that unimportant shit like brakes for last.

 

I dun red it

 

X2

 

I'm starting to feel like I might actually start my swap. I have the following sitting at the house and have a line on shop space to work in.

- 94 Ford D60 (Already cleaned the mounts off)
- 14 Bolt out of a 2000 GM Express Van
- Hutchinson Beadlocks
- Pitbull Rocker Radials, 41.5
- Just ordered all the heims for the 3 link and steering up front

The plan is to leave the chevy 63's out back for the time being and knock out the front 3 link. That's the quickest way to get me back rolling again, hopefully in time for Rock Therapy in October. I'll finish putting together my shopping list over the weekend and then set about setting my cc on fire.