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Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Supra TT, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. Dec 7, 2012 at 6:02 PM
    #861
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Chris
    Concord, NC
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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    The Dana 44 is out of some chevy half ton with 8 lug outers. Gonna have to find a 1 ton 4 wheel drive Chevy for the donor 60.
     
  2. Dec 7, 2012 at 6:07 PM
    #862
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    Cool. Light on the throttle with those big 'ol meats till you get the 60! :D
     
  3. Dec 7, 2012 at 6:12 PM
    #863
    Supra TT

    Supra TT [OP] Supercharged Lifter

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    Supercharged on One Tons
    stock width :p
     
  4. Dec 7, 2012 at 7:06 PM
    #864
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    :laugh: :rolleyes:

    That frame would be eaten ALIVE with 40s
     
  5. Dec 7, 2012 at 7:11 PM
    #865
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    lol

    I'm just trying to figure out if I'm wasting my time toying with the idea of going with custom width or just go stock Dana 60 width.
     
  6. Dec 7, 2012 at 11:47 PM
    #866
    RussellG

    RussellG Well-Known Member

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    Firestone
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    87 DLX/00taco everything except the FJ bits
    Diamond Axle SAS, TRD FJ calipers and brembo rotors on all 4, FJ rear axle, 5.29's and elockers in both, 3rz swap and dual cases,4.7 rear case,00 taco dash, bobbed bed,soft topper,raceline beadlocks, fj cruiser steering wheel and clinometer, super white paint and 37'' kevlars. Much more but i will keep it simple.
    You can run a diamond. Don't mess with the tg housing. I vote diamond or d60s. I went diamonds under my truck this last year and love it.
     
  7. Dec 8, 2012 at 3:25 AM
    #867
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    For some reasons I'm thinking a cut down 60 will be cheaper than a custom width Toyota axle. I think getting it down in the 63-65 wms would be about as skinny as you could go.
     
  8. Dec 8, 2012 at 5:52 AM
    #868
    dtmccray

    dtmccray Well-Known Member

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    millbrook alabama
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    01 money pit
    d60 3link sas, bumpers, sliders, arb twin on board air comp w/11gal air tank,38.5/14.5r15 tsl sx swampers, rock 8 beadlocks, detroit rear, trutrac front.
    I put a 63.5 d-60 under my 1st gen and I wish I had gone with a wider axle now. It would have allowed me to run less backspacing on the wheels and still run tall/wider tires. Right now 38/15.50 ish is the largest tire that clears my lower links when turning. I had planned to run 40-42's but that isn't happening if I want my tires to stay off the links.
     
  9. Dec 8, 2012 at 7:13 AM
    #869
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    65" would be ideal with the BS I'm running now. A custom width that is any more than that seems like it wouldn't be worth the extra cost to me. At that point I'd just mess with wheel BS on a full width axle to try keeping it a little narrower.
     
  10. Dec 8, 2012 at 9:52 AM
    #870
    RussellG

    RussellG Well-Known Member

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    Diamond Axle SAS, TRD FJ calipers and brembo rotors on all 4, FJ rear axle, 5.29's and elockers in both, 3rz swap and dual cases,4.7 rear case,00 taco dash, bobbed bed,soft topper,raceline beadlocks, fj cruiser steering wheel and clinometer, super white paint and 37'' kevlars. Much more but i will keep it simple.
    I went 67.25 wms to wms and its wide! I have 17/9.5 wheels with 4" back space and its really wide lol.
    I thought I had a picture hosted of it just sitting but I can't find it. I will take one today if I can't find one
    43C423FE-8EA6-43AA-A60C-CD0C59A15593-679_af76b098244c16a1a090cb8d1e4a2056a794a36e.jpg
     
  11. Dec 8, 2012 at 9:53 AM
    #871
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    Came up on the deal of the century :eek: Guess my truck will be swapped sooner than later :rolleyes: Specs:

    87 F350 HP D60
    NIB 5.38 gears with master install kit
    35 spline chromo stub axles
    NIB 35 spline Warn Premium hubs
    Passenger side hi-steer arm
    NIB king pin rebuild kit
    Complete Chevy outers with brakes
    Ruff Stuff diff cover
    Truss
    Plans: 3/4 ton brakes, unsure on locker at the moment, driver side hi-steer arm

    SRW 14 bolt minus carrier
    Disc brakes with El Dorado calipers (probably swapping to 3/4 ton brake setup like the front)
    High Angle Driveline 1410 yoke
    Plans: Shave, 5.38's, ARB locker or Detroit if I can find a carrier

    Also picking up a set of 38" Toyo MT's from the same guy. I think 40's and 5.38's with my automatic won't do so well on the street. 37's would be ideal but I don't want that small of a tire with the big 14 bolt out back.

    IMG_1417.jpg
    IMG_1423.jpg
    IMG_1425.jpg
    IMG_1430.jpg
     
  12. Dec 8, 2012 at 10:22 AM
    #872
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    What rotors are on that 14 bolt? Carriers are not to bad to find, you can probaly buy one from a gear vendor.
     
  13. Dec 8, 2012 at 10:32 AM
    #873
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    Not sure on the rotors but it will be getting 77 K20 3/4 ton rotors anyway. I know a Detroit with a carrier would be cheaper than an ARB but probably not by much after all is said and done. My truck is already plumbed for an ARB anyway :)
     
  14. Dec 8, 2012 at 10:41 AM
    #874
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    My front is 64" WMS to WMS I was told it was 65" but they were off by in inch :( and I'm planning on running 37's i think the 65" will look good and fit well on a 1st gen that's why i picked yo the axle width i did I hope the 64" is good as well. I'm still debating on how wide i want to set the rear it's a full width spidertrax housing uncut with no outers on it yet so i can really set it to whatever i want.
     
  15. Dec 8, 2012 at 10:48 AM
    #875
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    Might as well unless you find a used carriers, new ones are almost as much as a Detroit is.
     
  16. Dec 8, 2012 at 10:49 AM
    #876
    thekernel114

    thekernel114 Well-Known Member

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    allpro long travel, shackle flip with ome dakars, cruisin offroad bumpers and sliders, 4.88 gears with arb's front and rear, budbuilt skids.
    if your only gunna run 38's with the 14 bolt then get the big bastard shaved, gain a inch of clearance and while your doing the 14 bolt mine as well do the front 60 to.
     
  17. Dec 8, 2012 at 12:23 PM
    #877
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    Sounds like a good idea to me. You want to avoid extreme backspaced wheels if at all possible. The closer you can get to a 0 offset, the better for fighting bump steer and ease of fitting larger tires.
    :eek::drool: Love the width!
    :eek: :jellydance: Going to be a great set-up.
    He said he is shaving it
     
  18. Dec 8, 2012 at 12:30 PM
    #878
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Good to know. I think that settles the question for me. I agree with JLee that it looks a lot better with tires not sticking completely out. But when it comes down to it, I think I'd rather make sure everything clears the frame and suspension components. Much easier to mess with BS than it is to have an axle housing that I find out is too small for my liking.:eek:
     
  19. Dec 8, 2012 at 12:46 PM
    #879
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    Yep i just realized i have about 1.5" less on my front then i was told when i bought it :(
     
  20. Dec 8, 2012 at 1:00 PM
    #880
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    I am shaving it. Do you have personal experience with 38's and a 14 bolt or do you just read what's on the internet?
     
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