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Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Supra TT, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. Dec 8, 2012 at 1:12 PM
    #881
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    I agree about avoiding low backspaced wheels but I don't agree about them causing bump steer and ease of fitting larger tires. I had 2.5" backspaced wheels on my last truck (15x8's) on a Wagoneer 44 (Taco width) and never had problems with bump steer. Wheels with low backspacing will increase your scrub radius and wear out ball joints QUICK.

    It's clear to me you guys have been wheeling with IFS for WAY too long ;) When you are running 37's or 40's, there is absolutely no way for the tires to rub the frame, especially when you consider how tall a truck will need to be to fit 40's. They will get into the pinch weld and leaf springs/links far before the frame.

    That being said, I think 64-65" axle widths are perfect for these trucks on 37" tires. Wider than stock but not too wide.
     
  2. Dec 8, 2012 at 1:17 PM
    #882
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    Agree. 64-65" is a happy medium
     
  3. Dec 8, 2012 at 2:25 PM
    #883
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Haha, good point

    On an IFS related note, I've been running 1" spacers up with 3.75" BS wheels. Just found out the other day that the ball joints for the spindles/UCAs are going to shit. Is it because of the spacers? Should I ditch the spacers and deal with the rubbing on the frame to keep this from reoccurring?
     
  4. Dec 8, 2012 at 3:06 PM
    #884
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    My buddy ran 37s on an unshaven 14 bolt. He did drag it from time to time but its not as bad as made out to be. The last wheeling trip there was a guy on 42s and didn't drag it once. If you pick the right line you shouldn't have a problem.
     
  5. Dec 8, 2012 at 3:37 PM
    #885
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    If you think about it, there is more leverage on your ball joints because the tire is further out. So yes, it will wear them out faster. I think that's why most go with a uni-ball setup on IFS with big tires. Gotta remember these trucks were built for 31", maybe 32" tires. Anything bigger and parts will wear out faster. SOLID AXLE!!
     
  6. Dec 8, 2012 at 3:45 PM
    #886
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    Yup. And sure it's a rock anchor but it's an axle and it will get hit no matter what you do if you take the wrong lines. The good thing about a 14 bolt though, is rocks will break under it :cool:
     
  7. Dec 8, 2012 at 3:53 PM
    #887
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Thanks. Gonna remove the spacers then and get some Light Racing UCAs... less expensive and less maintenance than uni-balls. Should hold me over until the solid axle haha
     
  8. Dec 8, 2012 at 4:08 PM
    #888
    thekernel114

    thekernel114 Well-Known Member

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    allpro long travel, shackle flip with ome dakars, cruisin offroad bumpers and sliders, 4.88 gears with arb's front and rear, budbuilt skids.
    i have been passenger in a rig with 39" krawlers and a unshaven 14 bolt, it likes to hang up, another plus to shaving it is you get a smooth bottom the slide over stuff instead of catching on the big rib.
     
  9. Dec 8, 2012 at 5:22 PM
    #889
    RussellG

    RussellG Well-Known Member

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    Diamond Axle SAS, TRD FJ calipers and brembo rotors on all 4, FJ rear axle, 5.29's and elockers in both, 3rz swap and dual cases,4.7 rear case,00 taco dash, bobbed bed,soft topper,raceline beadlocks, fj cruiser steering wheel and clinometer, super white paint and 37'' kevlars. Much more but i will keep it simple.
    Here is a pic compared to the fj
    [​IMG]
    This is the same spot as the first pic i posted but Tacoma with and 3.75bs on 15/8 wheels.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Dec 8, 2012 at 5:37 PM
    #890
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    Lol! Maybe I have been wheeling on IFS too long... :eek::(:pout:
     
  11. Dec 8, 2012 at 10:05 PM
    #891
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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  12. Dec 9, 2012 at 12:07 AM
    #892
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    It's not a bad thing. You aren't like me at all, which is good! My last truck, I modified it a little when it was IFS but didn't really wheel it that much. Then I swapped it and wheeled a lot more.

    My point was find the axles you want to run at the width you want and fine tune after it's built. If you think too much, you'll never do. Tire size, suspension geometry, wheel width/backspacing is different for EVERY truck. It's just one of those things you jump into head first and learn as you go along :p
     
  13. Dec 9, 2012 at 12:09 AM
    #893
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    Yeah Matt's truck is the epitome of clean work. DD's are cheap! Finance a little Honda for 3k or even less. My Honda gets 40mpg and cost 2800 bucks...cost nothing after it got rear ended and totaled :rolleyes: I still drive the car though.
     
  14. Dec 9, 2012 at 12:30 AM
    #894
    RussellG

    RussellG Well-Known Member

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    That Tacoma is well built!
     
  15. Dec 9, 2012 at 6:17 AM
    #895
    fireturk41

    fireturk41 I like to break shit!

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    Kevin
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    SAS, Locked front rear, Ufab sliders and bumpers, air compressor, 35" BFG KM2 on steelies and 36" TSLs
    whats up bitches
     
  16. Dec 9, 2012 at 6:31 AM
    #896
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    Yeah.... :eek:


    Got my 89 Celica for $950 cash. lol It's by no means a luxury ride, but it should get me where I need to go for the next 5 years....
     
  17. Dec 9, 2012 at 7:17 AM
    #897
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    Just don't buy a Tacoma as a DD, you want to modify the hell out of it too along with your other truck.
     
  18. Dec 9, 2012 at 8:42 AM
    #898
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    That's later on down the road. Gotta have a truck to tow this one, right?:D
     
  19. Dec 9, 2012 at 8:51 AM
    #899
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    So with this whole 'SAS' deal, (other than funds :rolleyes:) I think my biggest hurdle is proper link setup/geometry. I can't seem to find any specific guidelines or rules to follow.

    I've probably mentioned it before, but before I got this truck a couple years ago I had never even changed the oil or a tire on a car before. So I'm quite in the dark about a lot of this stuff, and links is something I don't want to f*&$ up on.

    Any good, definitive resources out there? Or should someone in my position take some of the guesswork out and get a link kit like the ones from these guys...

    http://www.4wheelunderground.com/index.html
     
  20. Dec 9, 2012 at 9:59 AM
    #900
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    I know on pirate there is a good 3 and 4 link calculator. Mainly just look to see why others have done, also searching key terms like roll axis, anti squat and all the other fun stuff will give you an idea of what you need. You can play around on a 3/4 link calc until you get your numbers where they need to be.
     
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