Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Pointless.. ask one question and get smart ass quoted and such.

 

8 actually. And they stuff up there just fine without "coming to the hood"

 

Probably because of these little gems that you served up to us on a silver platter.

Either cut a check to a shop to put a solid axle under your truck so you aren't a hazard to anybody else on the road...Or spend a lot more time reading and learning about how to swap one of these trucks without telling us that we are all idiots in the process. You're utterly clueless right now.

 

Not clueless smart ass. I've done two swaps on two other prior truck of mine and have a pretty good back ground in this line of work. But guess you know it all and don't understand the questions. Of course you pack whatever tire you want on truck, but will it steer to full turn or at speed bumps blow the fenders off. Sorry I don't just cut holes in my trucks, hack job anything or cut my fenders off for a tire to clear. But this obvious a remark station for smart ass people.

 

No trimming needed, just lift it

 

Snowys truck will steer fine and not blow the fenders off because his steering stops are set correctly, has the proper length bump stops and some fender trimming.






All done by the previous owner who built the truck

 

Because I'm a lazy and cheap bum

 

From the sounds of things, those tires are way too big to possibly fit without more lift or a smaller tire. I think this is more @ARDnc style

 

I feel all warm inside

 

Bruh what size DB lift that fit on

 

Kings bruuuuuuuh!

 

Just asking for reference and so others who are wondering can find out as well. Also like seeing what everyone has to say about each axle king pin, superduty, fj80 etc...

What’s everyone’s axle of choice to go with?

 

Fabricated housings with tundra 10.5 third members and 05+ super duty outers

There is no 1size fits all perfect setup, they all have positives and negative whether it’s strength, width, weight, or cost.

Toyota mini/ LC:
Negatives
-stock width is too narrow,
-stock housings more likely to bend, especially if jumping
-8” ring and pinion if mini axle
-smaller knuckles and knuckle balls = narrower trunnions pacing putting more stress on trunnions bearings
-most rear disc kits have crappy parking brake options

Positives
-all Toyota
-strong aftermarket support so aftermarket housings, shafts birfs etc lots of options
-9.5” ring gear if LC axle
-easy to high steer
-big brake options using FROR kit and tacoma/tundra/4Runner brakes
-usually easy to get
-usually not too expensive
-can use your existing wheels

Toyota FJ80:
Negative:
-Limited options for high steer
-8” front ring gear
-wheel hubs are scalloped so cant add more dowels for wheel hub to locking hub
-no big brake options
-a metric shit ton of brackets to strip off the housing
-cost and availability
-offset rear pumpkin

Positives:
-width (64”)
-larger knuckle and knuckle balls
-better brakes than mini, rear disc with drum in disc parking brake
-full floater rear
-stronger housing than mini
-9.5” rear ring gear

D60 kingpin
Negative:
-Hard to find, old, expensive
Positive:
-aftermarket c’s and knuckles available
-stronger than balljoint
-easy to high steer

D60 balljoint
Negative:
-not as strong, narrower short side axle tube makes leaves
D60 super duty super 60, limited high steer options
Positives:
-easier to find, less expensive, standard bolt pattern

Super D60
Negative:
-metric bolt pattern
-radius arm brackets need to be removed
-can’t run with leafs
-limited high steer options
Positive:
-easiest to get, lots of super duty trucks and still in production
-arguably stronger than kingpin axle

 

This except I’d go 9.5” center so that I can swap diffs front to rear and not turn the thirds into rock anchors on 37’s. Once my wife is out of school, I’d seriously consider building one for extra strength, width and turning radius.

 

Getting outside of factory options into fabricated housings and hybrid axles opens up a lot more options to tailor to your needs, if you have the $$ or the tools and skills to do it.

 

Fabricated axles for me. 9" center with arbs and Dana 60 outers. Full width. Wont go back after this front axle.

 

My home built junkyard shit made out of Toyota parts is working just fine!

Only complaint is the turning radius on toyota axles absolutely sucks complete ass. The 5000gal aircraft fuelers I used to drive at work turned tighter than my truck.

 

Yep, that’s why I’d go 60 outers if I ever redid things. Problem is that my axle has never really given me a reason to be looking to build anything else. I think I’d honestly turbo before I went for a new front axle.

 

so many mixed reviews on balljoint vs. kingpin