Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Lol cant say you're wrong. I've always wanted to get a $300 xj or v8 zj to cut up and slap 35s on for fun

 

Meh, 212hp and 275 lb-ft for torque is nothing to sneeze at in a 1FZ-FE...especially in 1992. GM 350's of the era were putting out 190-210 hp and 285-300 lb-ft in Silverados and Suburbans. Yeah, its not a 300hp LS but is still a damn fine engine with gearing to suit. They are really fun to turbo too.

@suttonkb is in South Carolina...AC is mandatory south of the Mason Dixon line...hell...it's mandatory for me in Chicago.

I go back and forth on the XJ vs 80 thing. The mini truck guy in me says that MJ is the correct answer. Less $1000 MJ's around than XJ's though.

 

i don't know who keeps telling these lies. Honestly it's all person opinion based on wheeling style but i'd start by talking to the guys that beat their shit up really bad. i was killing fully built toy axle longfields 25mm pins high pinion no locker just limmited slip and on 37's it would it was a guessing game of how many time i got to take it out before i broke it again. running a dana 60 in my new truck (because i learned my lesson) and went 2.5 years on stock 30 spline shafts pushing 42's.

 

Well got the new transmission back in this am

 

Stock 60 axles are good to 6500 ft-lbs and 30-spline Toyota RCV’s are good to 8500 ft-lbs per Bobby Long’s old axle break test machine. Not saying the 60 doesn’t have a R&P strength advantage over a Toyota 8” but just clarifying where the stock D60 is equivalent to a built Toyota axle talk comes from.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toy...-breaking-machine-results.html#/topics/467075

 

I feel like the 313k miles and 5700#+ curb weight makes it seem terrible lol
I'll LS swap it with a cheap 5.3 or go bigger with an LQ9 / LQ4 one day. Kinda wanna ride this out until it dies. I'd have a jeep if it werent for the fact that jeeps such in every aspect of reliability (from what I've seen on trails). My buddy and I are actually building his v8 wj right now. 40s, clayton long arm kit, coilovers, one tons, part time 4wd tcase.. it's been a fun project but i'll stick to toyota.

 

I’ve always been a xj fan boy. Knowing that it was going to be a trail rig I didn’t want to blow a lot of money into buying something so a $1700 xj it was.
I would’ve loved an MJ but damn the prices on those things have went crazy high.

Now I’m keeping my eye out for a nice diesel and trailer.

 

Now I’m really trying to burn the forum now by saying this...but coming from a current owner of a 3/4 ton diesel, just get a gas truck. Way less headache.

 

Ill look into some of those as well. Thanks for the honest input

 

I don’t know. I really dig my 17 Ram with the CTD. Pulls my beater pretty well.

 

Diesel will always tow better/easier (assuming comparable years), be more in maintenance but last longer with better mileage. Just have to decide if it’s worth the cost to you

 

Truth. For shits and giggles I got a quote for a oil change and fuel filter swap $700
Did myself for $320 and two hours of time

 

Don't get me wrong, the way a truck pulls with 400/800+ hp/tq is great. The downsides are the $8-$10k premium for the CTD diesel option up front, then your EGR valve will clog or need to be cleaned every 65-70k, then the WP will need replacing around 100k, and at any point in between the HG may lift. And on top of all of that, the DPF and DOC only have a service life of 120k-180k depending on how the truck is used. $4k to replace or $2k to delete. Then to top it off 12 quart oil changes add up in a hurry.

6.7 Ford's and LML/L5P's have their own set of issues too.

If you're willing to stay in a newer truck and trade in regularly, they are great. If you are looking for 200k service life with the hood welded shut like you would a 5.7 Tundra, they just don't have it.

@Acerwin if you're looking for a non-emissions truck, keep in mind they are all 11 years old now. Age is as hard on a truck as mileage is I'd argue. The LBZ/Allison is a great powertrain, somehow or another the rest of the truck ends up being about $1000 in maintenance every year once you're over 100k too (ask me how I know...250k and counting...the list is too long to type out ). 5.9/NV5600/G56 is a solid powertrain same thing with the rest of the truck being a bit of a pile that will somehow consume cash. 7.3's are pretty solid too, just old, slow and catankerous in the cold. Mine has been solid up to 155k, same as the other trucks needing regular maintenance on the body/chassis. Mine needed a new steering box, BJ's and tie/rod draglink at 100k, heater core at 130k, axle stub bearing at 145k, etc...it's always something.

TLDR: Buy a 5.7 Tundra. It'll pull your XJ on a trailer fine.

 

My single cab short bed ram 1500 with the 5.7 tows my Tacoma fine. Looks goofy but do 70-75 the hole way and atleast 65 up the grades if not 70. But I will say I want something bigger just for that last little bit and a longer tow rig I think will make it more stable. Currently planning to get an f250 with the 6.7 diesel but my dad does have an f250 gasser and it does fine. I'll test drive both then decide

 

I’ve been looking for a nice 12v Cummins lately and running into the same thing. Gonna turn into a money pit anyway.

 

there's a litter of 24 valve non common rails going for like 4K in my area.

 

Because 39s..anyone want to take bets on how long before stuff starts breaking

 

Looks good!

 

I bought a V10 Excursion for this reason. I haven't really gotten to use it for that purpose yet though. It defiantly needs new springs before I put that much weight on it. I think the engine is up to the task, but we'll see.

 

You aren't a throttle jockey...so probably quite a while to be honest. Truck looks awesome man.