Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

I’m over 8k in parts and I’m still collecting haha. It is expensive

 

Yeah. I figure it'd run me 3-5k for a built 9" axle.

 

What are you building hahah. For my 9 in, I got the 3rd with zip locker, full float kit and drive flanges, pinion guard and the housing and at about 3200... shafts I figure will be another 5-600 and then brake lines and u bolt eliminators will be another 200-250. So 4k for a rear 609? I dont think that's bad. Part of the fun though. Should be able to recoup costs with selling the existing axle as well as my old tires

 

14” kings with resi, 3 link. Superduty axles, 5.13s in both. Grizzly lockers in both. Brand new calipers ball joints hub assembly’s wheel joints. High steer kit from Jessie hines , hydro assist, ruff stuff heavy duty steering kit. Ruff stuff diff covers fj transfer case. 40s. I’m going bulletproof hopefully

 

Here is my purchases so far. Over 8k

 

For that amount you should of bought a built truck and yanked the axles from under it

 

Cost money to have a solid truck. @1999RegCab

I want everything to be new and knowing it’s good after I get done. Not chase a problem

 

Just because it's new doesn't mean it'll be all good but I was kidding anyway. SAS = super axle serious

 

I want to be able to drive it still and not be just a beater. So it’s more of a mental thing. Knowing it’s all rebuilt with quality stuff I should be ok haha

 

I just bought an FZJ80 for parts that I’m contemplating building a new front axle from. Thinking 67-68” with a 9.5” third and 80 outers. Ruffstuff housing, Hellfire knuckles, and keep it on leafs. It’d be very dependent on what I can sell my Sky’s axle for now. 63” WMS, 8” 5.29’s, Detroit, RCV’s and a spare set of RCV’s

 

Do some searching, the fabricated housings with the 9.5s may not work for leafs. I remember reading about guys having to crazy notch them out to get the perch to work on the drivers side.

EDIT: looks like ruffstuff does that now, which is good. Fuck having to hack up a brand new housing!!

 

Do it. Going full width was one of the greatest things I've done to this truck. We dont have the tube fenders like jeeps and cant just lean the truck into rocks so the wider axles really help. Plus ruffstuff is great to deal with and get you setup. I would think youd have no problem selling your current axle as well for good money.

You say spare rcvs? Full set or just birfs?

 

They have to notch the 8 in as well. If you set up your spring perches wider at 31.5 it's less but they still had to do mine. Could have got away with out it but the drive shaft would have been st more of an angle than I would have liked.

 

I saw that, I figured if I gave them my spring perch width they could build something that would work for me without cutting up a new housing.

I’d think my current front is an easy sell, especially since it’s drivers drop.

Spare inner shafts and one spare birf.

 

Anyone with hydro assist every made a shut off valve to disable it for the highway? Really don't enjoy street driving with Hydro.

Thinking I could add a valve with a T at each end of the ram that plumbs the fluid into a loop when the valves are switched so the ram can move side to side freely but isn't being pressurized by the system?

Am I a dumbass or is this doable?

 

What don’t you like about it?

I actually enjoy it on the highway.

 

Just so twitchy. It feels like having mouse acceleration turned on while playing a video game haha, and sometimes there will be a bit of a delay where it feels like just the power steering is turning it, then the hydro kicks in. It's unsettling to me for sudden quick movements or long sweeping turns.

Also I just like having some road feeling in the wheel

 

I don't think that would work, if you bypass the steering box with a t fitting the fluid will take the path of least resistance and you will have no power steering. In theory, just an in line valve at the supply and return should work. But you'd have to find a hydraulic valve rated for 3000ish psi.

 

That may just be an issue with your ram size vs pump flow. Mine seems to be pretty reactive.

 

I thought it was pretty good on the highway when I had it. It honestly made me work on my hydro assist since I thought yours was better.