Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

What part of AZ do you live in?

 

Dana 60s are over kill might as well over kill the whole truck!!

 

60's are not overkill if your running 4D's Overkill would be steering dana 80s with rcv's

 

Haha true. Screw it run rockwells

 

Looking for some ARB styled switches that say (front lights/back up lights) anyone know a good place to get some?

 

Been running unibearings in my Currie Rock Jock 60 now for 7 years and have never broken one or replaced one and I'm harder on mine than most people are.
I wouldn't run anything else.

 

Yep. gas tank. You'll need to relocate the gas tank to get a 4 link back there. Three link works just as good one the road, remember we're not driving a sports car here, and they wont bind at the extremes like a four link will.

 

NOPE!!! The FJ case is bigger with a larger chain as well as the 2nd gen Tacoma case. The internals of the Fj case and the 2nd gen tacoma case are almost indentical except for the way they shift and the shift forks and rails.

 

And getting the ADD to work ion the front diff. the lights are easy.

 

no run 10 ton portals

Im a tech and ive worked on em i don't like them im a hater ill stick with the old shit that works.. Im very glad youre happy with them and yeah you don't farm abuse your truck nore to you have the weight these guys do in theirs so you shouldn't ever see issues im just a hater cant help it.

 

Youo mean like these....



I'll try to find the link for you.

 

My Tacoma weights 6124lbs. Thats more than my 2008 F250 Super crew weighs. plus it's not only the weight that kills these things. It's how they are used. And trust me. Im not easy on it at all.

Follow the video. Those "farm" trucks ainit doin' this. Hell, My construction vehicles don't see this.



Then when I'm done I do this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7B6rJ5eXQfo

 

Yes sir just like those.

 

Done some reading on this, and I believe it's actually the input shaft that's the main problem on taco chain-driven t-cases. Honestly, even if 4340 or 300m input shafts were available, I don't *think* it would help since the problem isn't with the strength of the shaft itself. The problem is that the shaft is too short, and the splines can start fretting under high stress. The metal to metal contact, from the grease being forced out, makes the splines wear down and eventually strip over time.

I really don't think our cases are that bad since they have some give and can flex better when things start binding, they absorb shock loads better than the gear driven t-cases, and to be honest, they are a bit stronger than the pre-taco cases in a stock to stock comparison. You can also run a double row bearing to prevent fretting. Marlin and Inchworm use double row bearings for just this reason. Grease with a high moly content (30% or more) can help as well...

Sorry if I've forgotten, but what size tires are you hoping to run, man? If 40" or smaller, and you do end up with a 14b rear, I vote run the driver drop HP KP Ford D60 with the stock case in the rear (with a double row bearing set-up if possible) with a 4.7 up front. And just make greasing and inspecting that input shaft part of the yearly maintenance. Keeping the driver drop also means not having to mess with the exhaust. And parts come cheap and easy for the 14bs....

If you're going to be running anything bigger than a 40" tire, I really believe 5.38s are going to be too high int terms that it's not gonna be very peppy on the street... (Even with a blown 3.4, rctoy! ) If just driven off-road and you had an Atlas, I'd say don't worry about the 5.38s.... but I don't think that's what where you're going with your truck. I'd say run the pass drop chevy 60 front and a rear 70HD, or 35 spline FF60 to get that lower gearing.... The lower gears in the axles would also help relieve the stress put on the transfer case and drivetrain in general. I think a pre-taco gear driven case (4.7 up front or just re-gear the t-case to 4.7s if you don't think you need triple lo ) with a 23 spline Longfield 300m rear output shaft would be just fine in this case. Or the bigger 30 spline versions Marlin and Inchworm sells if ya wanna get fancy. hahaha The rear output is the weak link on those cases, and with the low gears in the diffs removing some stress from the t-case, I think that's the only upgrade you'd need. *Might* have to upgrade the front output and gears if you start rock hoppin n' stuff but I doubt it....

I know you're kinda limited by axle availability/price but I'd go with the pass drop and 42s or 44s if possible....

 

Cool you got it masta i still won't put that shit under my truck and it'll do all that too. Only difference is ill be happy with mine the way it is and you yours. different strokes for different folks. Still hating not on you or what youve done with your rig just Ford and what they did with Dana

 

Is this where you got them? https://otrattw.com/products.php?cat=17

 

Mark is correct. Found this during my evening browsing... http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/misc/35_spline_60/35_spline_60.htm

 

Yeah this is why i would go with a 3 link out back if i link the rear "and im really thinking about it" i just want to keep the tank where its at.

 

Do you guys know if it still suffers from the retard small input shaft like the 1st gen taco t-cases?