Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

I run a tilton clutch mater cylinder in place of the brake booster for shock clearance and then the booster and master is mounted under the seat. The clutch master is plumbed to a slave which drives the brake master. I use a 1” bore yota master

 

2 degrees is nothing and will never be noticed. I just would never want the front shocks angled forward as it will look goofy, lay them back as far as you can

 

@allenfab and I are running a one ton master with the stock dual diaphragm booster with superduty axles. Dual pistons front and rear and it’s great

 

@Snowy and @slander thats what I was attempting by going with a Sequoia mc which has very similar front brakes to mine. Been attempting to make it work to the point where I just need any brakes and don’t have the time to assess why the 01/04 pedal and booster isn’t working in my truck.

Someone thought an 80’s series land cruiser mc might fit the 96-00 dual booster I’m looking to use again. Haven’t seen a truck actually running that setup though.

@81Trekker that sounds amazing - on my truck (still ifs) I managed to keep the stock booster with welded rod ends for my 10” bypasses - my trucks been sitting for years and push is coming to shove so any major fab projects won’t be possible besides loose ends I’m finishing.

@Timbo's Customs you mean the T100 1 ton mc right? I had one I was going to use then I went for the Sequoia mc. It’s the most likely candidate once I buy another dual booster. I gifted my old one to someone in a pinch on here.

 

Having good luck finally with my setup on 37s roughly 5200lbs.

Master: Factory 13/16
Booster: Factory 04 w/ABS
Front: Tundra 231mm
Rear: 2003-16 Rear 4runner
ABS and lines removed.
All braided line, all rubber flex lines removed.
Wilwood 5 port adjustable proportioning valve

When dialing the valve, used crawlbox low 12ish:1 in 2wd and adjusted valve until the rear calipers would hold the truck from moving. With that much torque and having the auto braking is great.

Fronts will lockup and stop no problem, but with the back not adjusted the rear would just dig and spin while not moving. After adjusted properly the brakes now hold the whole truck without moving. Another benefit is no more nose diving with a more 50/50 brake bias.

ABS module has a factory built bias built in that cant be changed. The only thing the rear manual proportioning valve will do is allow full bias pressure to the rear. But to tap into the full power of the master cylinder, a whole new whole system (5 port) can adjust the complete bias front&rear.

Testing was fun, it's a unique noise to hear all 4 37s lock up and leave some rubber.

 

That’s what I was going for - took a pedal, booster, and mc from a wrecked 01-04 ABS (only tacos with 13/16 mc’s) truck but am getting binding before the pedal presses down. I looked for the source of the binding but got nowhere with that. All I can think of is there’s possibly something going on with the pedal that I didn’t notice when I bought and removed it out of the donor.

 

Pushrod in the boosters the same length/no pitting on the rod or inside the booster?

Mine had some moisture get in through the years, sanded smooth with some grease to keep it happy. Binding would be looking at pushrod length being too long, or maybe pedal bracket differences/wrecked truck pedal bent? Idk.

 

Took the whole deal (brake pedal, booster, mc) out of a truck and thought it was working fine when I removed it from the truck. Southern California so it looks minty. I later noticed the booster was dented from the wreck presumably however I’ve tried another remanned booster with the same results. Pedals just binding before I can depress it and I’ve moved the linkage in and out from all the way to the ends of the threads to 1/2 in in.

 

Weird, I have tundra brakes and FJ80 rear calipers and have stock non abs tacoma stuff and the brakes work fine. It will hold it in double low. I was going to replace the MC/booster per the internet's and said f it lets run it and see, and it worked and won't touch it.

Did you drive the truck and the brakes suck?

 

Showing 01-04 auto 2.7/3.4 assembly is different from 98-00.

 

I got mine out of a 5 lug manual and I have a 6 lug manual.

@Timbo's Customs how is the T100 mc plumbed, the foremost port to the front or rear brakes?

@slander probably should have tried it but seeing how lots of guys complained with the 1” mc when just going with tundra brakes up front I figured there would be no way I’d have good results with the bigger brakes front and rear. But the other thing was I had other mods making the truck un drivable for the past 4 years.

 

Gm one ton master my 4 runner has a 2 bolt flange. Todd had a 4bolt and had to buy the adapter

 

Did you get it to fit with the two bolt? Mine was barely off and heard certain people oblonged the holes for it to fit.

 

Used a rotary file and made it slightly bigger

 

What’d you do for the plunger? Stock one work? I’d like to use my old booster since it’s smoother and it’s a 2 post one.

 

Cardone 10-1584.

seemed to be long enough. Not much play in my pedal but it’s been sitting for a year without messing with it much.
Todd had to run the longer plunger because of the adapter.

 

I got a reman 4 post booster and it’s got a hard spot and just don’t like the feel over all. A solid washer over the hole in the gm master makes it so you don’t need a longer plunger with the adapter (I used a quarter to be 100 percent honest). I still have my old booster and think I may try that since the pedal had a better feel.

the new booster with nothing hooked up to it besides vacuum has an initial hard spot that’s annoying and drives me insane is the reason for my questions.

 

This is the one I ended up with but from wide open design as an 1 1/4 bore like low range sells was to much braking and made the pedal have no travel and stiff as anything. This one is 1 1/8 and I think a 1 1/16 gm would be right on.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Power-Manual-Master-Cylinder-1-1-8-Inch-Bore,36760.html

 

That's the exact set up I have, but with different 1ton axles (88' D60 front, 14bolt rear). It works really well. And yea, dual pistons front/rear rock!

When I ordered the parts online to upgrade to the T100 1" MC and dual diaphragm booster, I had no idea that my 98' reg cab 4cyl Tacoma came from factory with the T100 equivalent parts already .

To be honest, I never even bothered looking at what I had before I ordered the parts. I just assumed it was the 13/16" MC and regular booster that most toyota trucks seemed to have.

Out of curiosity I started looking online, even called a couple of parts stores to confirm. Sure enough....apparently some 4cyl Tacomas came from factory with the "upgraded" parts. Why not the just the V6s?. Dunno There's a lot of conflicting info online about what years/trucks came with what.

 

Yeah all 95-04's w/o ABS had the 1" mc / dual booster. All 95-00 w/ or w/o ABS had the 1" mc / dual booster. Only 01-04 w/ ABS (which most were) had the single two bolt booster / 13/16 mc.

So you have the 1" MC from a T100 and not the one ton T100 1 1/16" MC - beginning to think the stock setup should have worked on my new brakes...