Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

how much of those numbers is useable. Like o have 7 inches of shock shaft at ride height but have the bumps set so I only use 6 3/4

may be worth pulling the shock and drooping it out to see if you can even use a 16 in shock and get more downtravel. May be surprised what kind of issues you into. And A 16 in shock body in those same shock tower/mounts I bet will leave you right around 2 inches of uptravel just doing rough numbers looking collapsed and extended lengths on foxes website.


I wouldn’t want anything less than 4 inches of uptravel and would shoot for 6 especially with what that kit cost you and what Brian claims you can get. What’s the frame height at? What about just lowering the frame height an inch or two. That essentially gets you what your looking for in downtravel and would give you similar uptravel numbers if you didn’t change mounts with a 16 in shock


and don’t forget limit straps stretch about an inch to an inch and half for every 12 inches of strap. Mine are 16 in straps so I accounted for 2 inches of stretch

idk 9 inches of downtravel sounds pretty good to me. I don’t think you’ll gain anything and actually lose performance going to a bigger shock without going full hydro and chopping the frame and moving the motor back. Just some suggestions before you throw more money at it haha

 

For now it is. Not that I drive it on the road a lot but I drive it just enough to want to keep a steering box. And I’m not hurting for more travel either. I’ve never been in a situation where I thought I needed 2 inches or more of travel and if I did, I’m on something I shouldn’t be on with a full body truck.

a lot of guys go for crazy travel numbers for the rti ramps and the metal cloak ramp but even those numbers mean nothing because it’s not applying the same forces as actually being on rocks. A buddies land cruiser did better on the trailer than my truck on leaf springs but his wheeled like shit and was super top heavy and unstable.

 

I did this as well. The clickers would be nice but I got shocks before the crazy ness and paid 1050 shipped to me.

 

I needed the clickers haha

 

again

LOL, i keep drooling on the FB marketplace.....

 

What's there to drool about on fb market

 

Anyone have a good part number for a 1989-1995 IFS steering box rebuild? I got a seep at the sector shaft and picked up a seal kit locally but I'm not seeing the seal I need...

 

D60s foo!! Why you toying with my heart

 

You need to close your eyes and hit that "buy it now" button. You know covid price will continued to skyrocket

 

Fine tuning should be easier with a link suspension. And of course there are lots of variables such as wheel base, etc. Some people obsess chasing numbers. But as someone mentioned above, it's not until you wheel the truck that you find out if your setup really works or not.

 

We shall see!!

 

I was curious since I have a spare box on the shelf I need to rebuild. Didn't realize there were differences, I thought 86-95 was the same.




there's some good info here and looks like the following are listed as fitting if you trust O'Reilly/partsgeek:

• Sector Shaft Seal: Toyota Seal, Type V Oil: 90312-36001
• Sector Shaft Seal: National/Timken Seal: 223400

 

Anyone used the Tom Woods gold seal u joints?

They're only a couple bucks more than a Dana or Spicer 1310

edit: that's what they build new shafts with so that's what I'll get for my old stuff

 

@Wulf Back in my jeeping days they were awesome, but I also got out of that in 2005. I had a woody in my yj and never had an issue with it.

 

Also funny Tom woods story: he used to have a shop in Moab and he busted my buddy and I dumpster diving behind his shop looking for swag and parts. He gave us a signed poster.

 

The Tom Woods in my truck are setup with 1310s, one of them is squeaky so I figured I'd do em all for peace of mind

 

Did you find any good parts? lol