Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

It’s never shifted how I thought was correct so I may not notice anything I believe the brake booster is there since the 09 OR have downhill assist and atrac that relies on automatic braking

 

43’s, tons, LS swap problem solved

 

The one thing the have going for them is they look awesome on huge tires IMO. I always liked the look of the RST shop truck.

 

Is anyone bothering with converting the speed sensors over from the sd axles? I’m tried to read up to see if it’s just a straight swap and splice them in.

 

In the testing phase.

 

Sweet

 

I'll get better pics shortly

 

I agree with slander…

plus it would be extremely easy to take it to far offroad, even in my truck. If it feels like it’s in a bad spot it is wayyyyy to late. wheeling in several local groups where everyone else is struggling on the trails, 2 wheeling because they have a “normal” amount of flex, etc and I’m still in 2wd with all my tires on the ground getting “bored”. Push your truck as it is and enjoy the challenge.

 

Nah I’m trying to wheel with the guys that 37’s and IFS won’t even get you to the party, not the overland crew. I want to take it “too far” because that’s part of the fun for me.

Doesn’t take many trips to realize the truck’s limitations. Four link is a superior system, but requires a little extra effort to fit, especially in the front of a Tacoma. It’s not impossible and It’s worth it to me.

 

New here in this thread but just completed the majority of my SAS on my 08 tacoma. I did the unconventional and used axles front and rear out of an 80 series LC. My only gripe is if i was confident enough I would have flipped the axle tubes around to make it a driver side drop axle. But i plan on using doubled up rf1a's so passenger side drop will work fine. Truck is taller than i wanted it to be so that will be my big adjustment. I have to clearance my oil pan and mount my shock towers when my shocks come in. Everyone says the 2nd gen tacomas are too heavy but a lot of that weight is in the front IFS. Change that from sprung to unsprung weight and you're similar to a 2nd gen 4runner so not worried about the tcases.

And yes i know its ugly. The truck got cut off by an idiot on a county highway at 65. Frame was fixed and now its the dedicated crawler

 

I think you missed my point though. Wheeling an undercapable truck with people who are more capable than you on trails you shouldn't be on preps you to be able to drive a built truck to it's max capability once you do build it.

Nothing puts a bigger smile on my face than following around buggies, or near buggies on stickys and 40"+ tires, with my leaf sprung, underbuilt junkpile that I drove 5+hrs to the trail and will drive that same distance home issue free. That's from following the above formula. There is no mod better than driver mod!! That's all from being on trails I never should have been on IFS on 33s with only a rear locker for 8yrs!

Anyway, make a build thread and document this front 4link!!

 

To each their own. We've led you to the water, it's up to you whether you would like to drink it or not.

 

There are four link Tacomas out there if that’s what you’re referring to. Here’s a first gen from a Georgia group. Link placement will be similar for me. Small gain in uptravel especially with full hydro, but far less flex steer than three link.

 

Here’s what I have come up with so far before trussing the axles- 136-138” wheelbase. Fully triangulated upper and lowers. 32” lowers, 40” uppers. Artec low profile truss should allow a decent link separation at the axle while allowing the best uptravel possible. Top of the tape measure is the height of a 43” tire. Possible upper link placement in the other picture. Will likely notch the frame.

 

3-link vs 4-link has nothing to do with flex steer. That is 100% a function of link length and with short links like you are planning, you will have flex steer.

You do you though. I'll be curious how it turns out when you actually start cycling the axle and landing links.

 

Probably more dependent on triangulation for four link and length for three link if comparing the two, but yes longer links help. Either way with lowers around 40” and cycling 14” coilovers it will likely be negligible in the real world. We will see what’s what when everything is cycled. Axle truss and axle centerline might get in the way. I don’t think a four link is impossible to do correctly though. What length links were you able to fit?

 

I suck at updating the interwebs, but you’ll see my pile of shit on the trail I’m sure!

 

@Dayman Karate Have you messed around with the 4-link calculator? May be a good idea to input your numbers there before making anything permanent. Tweak until you get your desired results, just moving the link brackets 1" can make a huge difference in performance.

https://irate4x4.com/resources/4-link-calculator.4/

 

when setting up the dual triangulated rear I used it a lot. It’s a great tool for determining what changes affect what. For the front it’ll be a matter of packaging more than anything, but knowing what changes what is very helpful.

 

Also @slander Levi and I will be bringing the silver truck smack down on your ass come spring. So fix those little cosmetic frame issues and pucker up baby