Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

I’m doing the math on steering control valves, but am not sure how quick I want the steering. I figure the quicker the better for what we do around here and since it’s not on the street. Any suggestions from people who have had a few different set ups?

 

PSC full hydro is what I'll go with

 

Sorry not pumps, I meant steering control valves in relation to displacement and turns lock to lock

 

I wouldn’t go much quicker than factory. Depending on how you set it up, a slower steering will give you more buffer room before you shear mounts off if you get hung up. I’d do whatever factory is and then take out like a half turn if you want it quicker.

 

I need to find out how many turns lock to lock stock is to have something to base it off of. Looking at the high steer bolts and ram mount that just came in I think the wheel will break first haha

 

I had tg 160ml orbital was too fast at 1.5ish lock to lock on toyota axle. 30MPH on logging road was sketchy. Switch to 125ml is 2.3 lock to lock it much better and little more streetable.

 

With hydro assist at least, if I understood what PSC explained, whereas a smaller ram gives a faster - though not as powerful - steering response (great for the street), a bigger one gives a more powerful - though not as fast - response (great for off-road).

Because I still drive my truck on the street, I needed faster response more than I needed a powerful one. So I went with a slightly smaller ram (1.5).

With 40"s, on the street the steering response actually feels very similar to when I had IFS. Anybody who drives the truck on the street feels 100% comfortable with the steering. Offroad, I wish the steering could feel a bit more powerful at times. Overall, it is a good compromise for a multi-purpose vehicle.

If/when the truck becomes a trail-only rig, I'll likely upgrade the ram to something a little bit bigger.

 

That’s a nice setup. didn’t want to cut frame?

 

I think I’ll fall around 2 turns with a 2.5x8” ram and the selection of orbitals that’s out there. Sounds like that’d be a good number, I don’t see myself going over 30mph really

 

14 bolt is easy to shave. Took about an hour to cut, weld and smooth out. I think I got the cover from Barnes and just cut that shit 1/4" below cover w band saw at the angle my diff was gonna be (cut is level w/ ground). SD not even in the same universe to get usable.

 

Got all my brackets in, picked up my RF1A, just got home with the FJ80 axles, everything else but steel is on order…. I’m ready to cut this thing to pieces.

Going to get cracking on cutting all the mounts off the axles tomorrow, and my 4.7 gears will be here next week so I should be tearing into that case next week too. Things are progressing quickly.

 

You ordered mc 4.7 at least?

 

sumo gears 23 spline 4.7 gears and a longfield chromoly output shaft.

 

Lefty rf1a tcase combo?

 

NWF Ecobox using my VF2A 2.28 internals + their triple sticks and bolting the RF1A passenger drop to that. Keeps me from having to chop up the FJ80 axle or buying a fabricated housing.

 

I see.

 

To the SAS guys, I need some help. I’m just not happy with my steering, on a stop or Moans and groans but driving it’s fine at speeds above 15, think turning in a parking lot it groans or turning from a start. Checked fluid last night and it wasn’t cooked and was at fill (hot). It sounds like it’s coming from the steering box but it doesn’t seem to be leaking.

 

? Aren't you running 35 only?

 

I’m on 31 inch stocks right now

 

Trail gear high steer kit by the way