Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Upper link mounts tacked on and factory crossmember removed. Need to tack on the axle side stuff then I’ll be ready to cycle things.

 

Gotcha. That pic looks diff. It looked like the driveshaft would hit them in the first pic. Looks nice.

 

As an update. I have an appointment this Thursday to see someone about the truck but would still like to hear what’s everyone’s thoughts.

 

Could be anything related to the steering components. Sound like it's having dry spot caused by running low on fluid. Have you checked PS reservoir with engine running to see where the fluid level is at? Can also be clogged or weak PS pump which result in inadequate flow, collapsed line restricting input/output flow, defective steering gear box.

 

So you're running 1t/14b? Or 1t front and toyota 8" elock rear?

 

AMEN.

Is that's why they run TG tacoma width axle, IFS hubs with 3" wheel spacers per side to get 68"

IDK about other gen but for a first gen, I would say minimum should be 66" wms. See one too many narrow semi-custom axle with spacers.

 

05 sd60 and sterling rear. Would have been fun to see how long the factory rear would have lasted on 42’s though haha

 

That's what I was wondering

 

Four linky cycled smoothly. Need to notch the weird bolt hole off the engine block. I could rearrange the first cat passenger side and maybe get a bit more uptravel but I’m limited by the alternator (edit: not the alternator but whatever is under it lol) on the other end. At 26” frame height it’s 5” uptravel which is alright with me. Before anyone asks yes the lower link mount is getting a lot more support added lol

 

Yes. I think your on the money. I’m praying for the best but expecting the worst. I’ll update with more answers after my appt.

 

Should have plated the frame where everything is being mounted. Hard to tell if you did

 

Yeah everything is plated where a mount or tube connects.

 

This truck is so much fun. Don't think I won't go bigger than 38" tires at some point. Does everything I want..

 

Exactly! Personally, I would always always encourage people to go wider and skip wheel spacers when possible.

Well, I was going to ask about the lower link mount lol.

That main tube piece you used for the crossmember...why not just bend the tube instead? It seems like bending the tube would better preserve the integrity/strength of it vs cutting and welding the end pieces.

I think 37"-40" is the sweet spot for most situations. It really don't understand that new trend or running 42" and up. I get it in the context of full buggies...but for street driven trucks? It just seems crazy to me.

 

Good question. I didn’t want to bend it because I plan on boxing it in. I’m going to build another removable crossmember about a foot behind it and I’ll run tube from the middle of those junctions straight back to it and box it in similar to an all pro LT lower control arm if that makes any sense. A bend would be extremely difficult for me to box in haha

 

Before I hit the buy button, can anyone verify this is what I’ll need sans lines/fittings for full hydro? I already have clevis/heims. I think the resi has a build in filter. Not sure if the cooler is correct or if the pump will bolt up and reuse the stock pulley. If there’s anything that’s overkill or underkill I’d love to know.

 

Maybe a bent tube with a thick enough wall wouldn't need to be boxed

Really curious to see how your idea design unfolds!

 

If it were straight across and permanent I’d probably go that route. I don’t know if 0.25” wall 1.75” would be enough though. Having a crossmember behind it will also allow some much needed triangulation in the other plane more in line with the links themselves. Not to mention halfway to a full belly skid too.

 

I always thought building a subframe to mount all that shit off of like the goatbilt chassis uses would be sweet. I am right there with you Clay with having any crossmember removable. Being able to get the trans out quickly is definitely nice.

 

I don’t ever want to be the one taking it out but yeah haha I didn’t really think about it at the time, but since I have tube running along the frame, if I wanted to add a crawlbox or something I could just move the mount back wherever it lands.