Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Right on man appreciate it.

Did you pick up a wiring harness for it?

I was looking at
https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/ors-3rz-fe-2rz-fe-conversion-wiring-harness/

still a ways out on the whole swap. I'm tempted to just throw the duals and drivelines in my 87 run the 22re for a bit.

 

oh man scope this video of our buddy working on his Crawler last night.... 2x4 arent wheel chocks for 39s

https://www.instagram.com/p/CnOKJb4KsFj/

Safety third kids.

 

You don't even "need" bumpstops at all on a hardcore crawler. The really serious comp moon buggies like Lasernut and JHF don't run them at all.

On a rec wheeler that has inherent compromises and significantly more concern towards comfort, they are nice to have. Especially places where you can't just take a trailer to the trailhead and it's a 20-30 minute ride onto the mountain like Harlan or Windrock.

 

Interesting points. That makes sense. And now that you mention it, I do recall seeing some rock crawling rigs in the area without bumpstomps.

Who knows..I might give air bumps a try

 

FWIW, 4WU instructions state air bumps are only required when both sides of the axle compress at the same time. Under articulation the bump on the shock is sufficient (air bump may not contact pad before shock bottoms on shock bump).

 

If your shock bottoms out before you bump stop does on articulation, regardless of style, your suspension is setup wrong. That's a great way to break a shock, or mount off coming down hard on something.

 

Correct. I need buy a set of 2.0 air bump too. Can't decide between Radflo and Locked. Kings is out of the equation, I hate the color and every brolander have them . Would rather bottom out the air shock before the rubber stopper on the CO make contact with the body.

 

I would much rather bottom out the air shock that can just slide in the bump can if it comes to that point and at least soften the blow to the shock, rather than slamming the shock and blowing a mount off or blowing the shock itself.

 

Or inverting a leaf for us poor folk.

 

“Us poor folk” says the guy with a $5k crawl box setup.

 

The ors harness is very nice. If I had the cash I'd go that route. My brother and I built my harness and it was kinda a pain but not the worst, just took a lot of evenings. I did pretty much everything diy to save a buck on my swap and did the entire thing (including engine) for about $750 lol.
Definitely run the 22re for a while if it's still strong!

 

I put money into areas with the highest ROI! For me it's stupid low gears, #crawlboiz

 

Has crawl box and air bumps on all 4 corners but still rocking leaf springs.

get with the times old man.

 

Wheeling > building

 

Accutune says the same thing.

https://accutuneoffroad.com/shock_setup/ under the section "Articulation"

 

That's nuts.

 

I think what 4WU/Accutune is saying is that when your articulated, your bump pad and shock probably won't be in the same plane and won't bottom at the same time at full articulation. For example, my bumps are welded to the frame, inboard of the shocks (As are 99% of most trucks). At full bump on one side and full droop on the other, the shock will bottom before the bumpstop because geometry and there's no real way to work around it. There's relatively little loading at full bump like that compared to a jump and landing where you stuff both sides at the same time or landing hard off a ledge.

 

Now I'm not a coilover guy, see a few posts up, but are they also factoring in you can tune in a hydraulic bump zone on the last few inches of travel on the coilover itself? Or is that like real bling stuff?

Maybe @Kerleyfries is right, my old man ass needs to update some knowledge as it was always beat into my head to setup bumps so you don't max out shock compression because then you break shit.

 

Same principle applies to the shock/bump relationship in a leaf spring setup too

 

Like I said I always set them up to leave some shaft showing fully articulated.