Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

May plate it afterwards or remove it completely, but I don’t have steering or pan hard attaching, just tubes for coil overs. It’ll be tube city under the hood and eventually tie into a cage when I feel ambitious again.

 

My slow brain missed that LOL. I may have been half asleep But after re-reading it, yea haha! I wonder how many companies outsource overseas and we just don't know it.

Things have gotten so crazy expensive with those big brand names of shocks. I went with ADS coilovers. Arizona based company, relative close to me, products made in house (or used to, not sure anymore). Got a pair of 14" coilovers for $750 new (on sale). That was back in 2015 I think, but even at the time those prices were significantly less than others. Same quality shocks - if not better - like the other big names in the industry.

 

Got some classic vinyl put on the other day. I’m really liking how it turned out. Gotta let it cure for a little longer than it’s off to the trails.

 

Love it. That was the color of my '85. Now it's primer gray

 

Needing a little guidance on driveshafts. I’m wanting to do 1410 joints, DOM shafts and I’m getting 1410 yokes for the axles. I’m not sure what to get for the Tacoma tcase flange. Does anyone know what will work with this and if this is the right stuff? I’m keeping a two piece rear. Is a double cardan necessary for the front with the 1410’s higher working angles?

rear-
https://www.wideopendesign.com/1410-intermediate-shaft-kit

Front-
https://www.wideopendesign.com/1410-driveshaft-kit

 

I don't know about 1410 but I do know that Tom Woods @ 4xshaft.com were making 1350 tacoma tcase flange. 1410 and 1350 are near identical with the exception of the 1410 having a wider body for high angle applications, both use the same size cap IIRC.

 

That’s my understanding as well. I don’t know if the wider body would contact anything in a 1350 flange, but I’ll check if I find one.

 

Maybe give 4xshaft a call and see if they have or can make 1410 flange for tacoma?

IMO, your tacoma tcase will go "k-booom" before the 1350 even though you're looking for 1410. That's your weakest link.

 

I have no doubt that’s true haha but I’m hoping the extra working angle will still be a benefit and also a little forward compatibility for future projects maybe.

 

Call jess at hi angle driveline: http://highangledriveline.com/

Don't let the 1995 website scare you away, they make good shit.

 

So cute when you’re helpful.

 

Don't get too excited, I like seeing cool people make money.

 

Are you guys gonna fuck or what, I'm tired of this will they-won't they sitcom tension

 

Always felt like it was sand through the hourglass round here because these are the

 

I tried the first time I met him but he wanted to go stay at a hotel with his wife instead of camping....

 

I was a little nervous. I knew you had a lot of experience, but it was my first time.

 

Stay Toyota driveshaft with Toyota u joints. Matsuba joints are as strong or stronger than 1410. Definitely stronger than 1350

 

Everyone in the driveshaft industry has pretty much told me to F off for custom stuff besides driveline tech. He actually talked me out of him building a shaft cause of cost and talked me through how to make my one work and offered to balance it for free

 

Folks with trailered rigs tend to build their own out of DOM from what I can tell. Not worried about balancing because it’ll be thrown off the first time it gets used as a slider. I don’t know about the strength differences, but 1410 and 1350 stuff is more widely available and easily compatible with one ton stuff from what I’ve seen thus far.

 

Jess at hi angle did the same for me when I was going to go 1 piece way back when.