Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

I like your thinking and will be exploring this come spring. I know it's possible under a 2nd gen 4runner.

 

Anyone got experience with the All Pro Offroad SAS kit? I am trying to compare estimated performance (I know every vehicle is slightly different and there are a lot of variables lol) and see what specs for shocks would be best, but they dont have anything on their site. If you have built a 2 or 3 gen taco with that kit, what shocks are you running and what are the numbers youre getting for travel on the front end?

 

go full link….
https://martecnv.com/products/p/tacomasolidaxlekit
https://martecnv.com/products/p/2005-tacoma-trailing-arm-3-link-rear-kit

that’s what I’ll use if I were too built a second or turd gen

 

I like Martec’s stuff but that kit is way more expensive and I dont like the specs for the front end. I also was planning on running Diamond Axles, which the All Pro kit recommends already.

 

Recently picked up an 01 ext trd that is bone stock and came with this TG bare housing (TGI-308906).

I have no problem ordering the adapter and running dual mini truck cases for the passenger drop.
My question is, TG doesn't make a 3 link for the taco pass drop. Does anyone make a link kit that will get me close?

The tube is 3" but has that flat brace on the pass side, looking for feedback and options.

 

that’s more work and money needed. Why not sell it and buy a housing with the correct drop?

 

what kind of “specs” are you looking for?

 

Good advise. But:
What fun is it then you have the same thing as everyone else? I say build it.

 

if you really think about it, they’re all the same no matter what. Someone out there done it before, lol.

The extra money can be spend elsewhere such as lockers, beadlock, tires etc. If it’s an assembled housing, that’s one thing. But it’s a bare, why bother catering everything to it. I would sell the housing, keep the shaft and buy the correct drop bare housing.

 

I like your thinking. Most likely correct. You got me thinking now..

 

Building a solid axle truck is no task an average person should tinker with, let alone, 3 link. I would say 95% of the people who want a solid axle truck will end up walking away from the idea. The other 5% will go through with it.

The best advice I can offer is, buy one built already and make adjustments to how you want it. It’s much cheaper and no headaches. You don’t have to worry about the truck sitting in the garage or driveway for months or years and ponder when it will be finish.

 

Don't like the spec? Honestly, links have better specs than leaf. Better articulation, better offroad manner, better numbers, looks better, you name it.

Now I understand not everyone can afford link or know how to set it up properly. It is 3x harder vs leaf and more involve. BTW, a fully assembled front DA is probably near $8k or more, depending on what you want.

So, what's your reasoning behind "don't like the specs for the front end"

 

From another thread,

Spring pin spacing:

All Chevy 60's are 32"
Dodges are 32.5
Fords 78-79 are 31.5" 80-97 ish are 36.5, Superduty axles are 38" ish I think..

Not sure if you are wanting to stick with a Drivers drop pumpkin, but if youre not particular, a GM dana 60 would probably be the easiest to make work and not have the springs way outside the frame.

 

Gentleman! I want to get some shocks on order for my SAS build but am looking for recommendations/advice from the experienced. My build is an 02 3.4 Tacoma Chevy 63s in the rear and trail gear axle and springs in the front frenched into the frame. Currently I'm sitting in some Bilstein 7100s with 360/80 valving that I ran in the rear of my third gen for awhile. I'm thinking I might be able to get away with these in the front but maybe a little harsh. I'm also considering fox 2.0 race series that come with 30/90. I think these would work well in the rear but might be a little light on compression for the front???

 

Just finished 3 linking my 2nd gen with a 2005 Dana 60 and a 14b rear. Are you guys all running a tundra booster with a gm master? I've got a tundra booster and master right now but the pedal is extremely squishy and I can't lock up the brakes. I would try the gm master but I've only got ~1" from the tundra master to the shock tower and I think the gm will be too long

 

sorry can't help with the brake question but I do have another question for you. the 14 bolt that you installed was it originally dual rear wheels or single? and any pic's of it would be appreciated. thanks

 

can speak for 1t setup or tundra booster but I can lock my 40s with the tiny Tacoma 1” MC and dual diaphragm booster.

 

SRW with disk brakes from the factory. Paid $500 on offer up