Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

I imagine similar strength from modern 44s. I haven't personally looked into it.

Depends on what LC you source from. All LCs are pass drop. I flipped mine to driver drop. Wasnt bad.
Fj60/FJ62- bigger diff (9.5" vs 8"). Knuckles are the same as the trucks
FJ80s- bigger knuckles and birfields and they have a high pinion 8". I belive they share ring and pinion numbers as the 2nd gen tacoma front clamshells.

I am planning on running 39s, feeling confident about the setup! It should be a good combo of clearance and weight.

 

oooof ECGS has some of the best customer service in the game.

 

I’m a fan of 9.5 and 80 birf & knuckle. Combined that with HF knuckle, plenty of BEEF





Built a w44 years ago. Enjoyed the length and matching lug pattern as Toyota, 6x5.5 Only downfall, 4.88 is there only ratio that will match. I seen people run 5.19 front and 5.29 rear.

 

Looks good. I'm fixin to shell out for the Branik total splines... my wallet isnt going to be happy but I will in the long run.



and I just dropped a load on some Haltech goodies for some boost..

 

I didn’t have the greatest experience with branik. They made my inners.

 

I'm going to Mix and match a little, even though all the 40spl inner apparently are Yukon blanks from what I was told.
More than likely getting my inners from ECGS.

 

05+ and 99-04 SD60’s are completely different axles aside from the R&P. Dimensions, shafts, and outers are completely different between them.

Don’t bother unless you’re putting it under a pickup (94 and down). Fabbed housings are cheap and so are custom inner shafts if you want to keep it Toyota. Stock housings bend incredibly easy too.

37’s are the sweet spot on Toyota mini stuff. That being said, I just put a set of 40’s on mine. But there’s also a 35 spline 9” third and an 05+ SD60 in the corner of the shop right now.

 

Out of curiosity why nothing newer?
Just a weight thing?

I’ve been day dreaming of doing a clean build on my ‘14 that looks like it could have come from factory with a solid axle.

I was thinking a waggy 44 but the idea of keeping it toyota is also appealing. Obviously would need to do somethign for driver side drop.

 

Too narrow, too flimsy of a housing and the wrong side drop. A flipped FJ60 housing works well on first gen Tacoma’s and third gen 4Runner’s and gets rid of the shit scrub radius of an 83-85 housing on spacers and IFS hubs. Plus 9.5” diff.

Anything less than tons on either an 03+ 4Runner or an 05+ Tacoma is a waste of time. The platforms are just too wide, too heavy with too much power for 8” thirds and mini outers / D44 stuff. Especially with 05+ SD60’s being $300 from junkyards all day so you don’t have to pay the KP60 tax.

 

We're looking at around 1300 for 05+super duty front axles in the Toronto area from junk yards.

 

Wow. I stand corrected.

 

I paid right at $1,000 for 05+ pair outside of ATL a couple years back for the taco.

I’m off the idea of SASing another truck. Went to Morris Mountain yesterday for Shamrock Run and it changed my mind. Drove the jeep there with the whole family, had a blast hitting mild trails. Watched the bouncers get gnarly and realized I have no interest in doing much more than the jeep can do (or a one ton 4Runner) and if anything would want another bouncer if I wanted to wheel that hard again. Really don’t have a desire for that either right now. So I’m going to quit while I’m ahead for once

 

I'll remind you of that when you change your mind in three months

 

You’re right. I’ll probably eat those words. I know better than to say them out loud

 

I just threw in 40’s and beadlocks on my 3GT4R. Running stock housing and 8” 3rd member regeared at 4.88 and properly set up in the rear, but it’s trussed with chrome shafts. Diamond housing up front also with chrome shafts with FJ80 reverse hi pinion (heard it’s about 20-30% stronger than regular toyota 8”s) but still 8”s is the point. Will it have a bad outcome when I take it to JV and Calico next month? Double t case and feathered pedal is my style. Time will tell. I feel confident it will do just fine. If it blows, I will be sure to report back here.

 

A trussed adds strengths/prevents the ultra thin factor housing from collapsing or bending, but the housing can be warped from burning the trussed on. 4340 shafts essentially moves the break point to another area. But those 2 aren’t the concerns, it’s the tiny 8” ring. 4.88 gear are weaker than 4.10 and folks are breaking ring with 35. I’m not saying you shouldn’t gone up to 40, just make sure you have a back up plan like a spare matching third. Your best route to take if you don’t want to drop money into a custom housing etc is to find yourself a 80FF complete rear axle.

 

You’re not wrong. People say the elocker is weak (which it is) but the 8” ring is weaker and will break before the factory elocker, lol.

@lit_taco4x4 find yourself a FF80 (93+) rear end is the best route without dropping a pretty penny. In the valley, non-elock can be had for 6-800 and elock are upwards of 12-1400 with inflation. Probably one of the best combo and you can recoup from the investment by selling your current rear setup.

Picture is a buddy’s runner, hi8 elock front and elock FF80 with Nitro shaft on 40 and 4.7 doubler. Issue free for 10+ years with a lite foot and picking good approach angles.

 

Got mine for $300 from a wrecker can find them pretty cheap on marketplace In the area too.

 

Anyone have any experience with REM polished or cryo treated R&P's? Supposed to increase strength and eliminate break-in.