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Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Supra TT, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. May 21, 2013 at 10:11 PM
    #1861
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    That i can and did :D
     
  2. May 21, 2013 at 10:25 PM
    #1862
    thegame

    thegame WUT?

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    :cheers::cheers::cheers:
     
  3. May 21, 2013 at 10:48 PM
    #1863
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Woo ill drink to that too alte
     
  4. May 21, 2013 at 10:58 PM
    #1864
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    i wan to tstart cutting!
     
  5. May 22, 2013 at 5:30 AM
    #1865
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Yeah thats why I built my own axles. I can buy a pro-rock 60 or build almost the same thing for half the cost. These would have been alot more to buy.

    I do wish I had ORI's though :eek:
     
  6. May 22, 2013 at 10:20 AM
    #1866
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    Well you can always swap those in later if need be :D
     
  7. May 23, 2013 at 12:43 AM
    #1867
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    ARE Camper shell
    New rear shackle from marsfab offroad
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369294819.408781.jpg
    Also had a ubolt plate cut out
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369294842.885061.jpg

    Flexed the susp out a lil and it will be flexy, now I need to get some parts.
     
  8. May 23, 2013 at 6:10 AM
    #1868
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    That shackle material looks pretty thin.
     
  9. May 23, 2013 at 7:14 AM
    #1869
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Boom. Just add lock-outs :D

    [​IMG]
     
  10. May 23, 2013 at 9:09 AM
    #1870
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    They are 1/4", bigger than what was on there, plus they were free:D If they bend I'll get some 3/8" or 1/2" cut out.
     
  11. May 23, 2013 at 12:47 PM
    #1871
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Don't drink and post :smack:

    Is there any reason I shouldn't go with a D60 rear instead of a 14 bolt? Seems they're easier to find around here for some reason, and I assume more parts would be interchangeable with the front. (bearings, seals, gears, etc.?)

    Would I get more clearance out of a shaved D60 rear as opposed to a shaved 14 bolt?
     
  12. May 23, 2013 at 12:56 PM
    #1872
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    60 is alot better on clearance than 14B. If you build the 60 with 35 spline then the shafts are basically the same size too. The only thing the 14B ends up ahead on is the ring gear size.

    Its all whats avaiable and what you wanna spend. I found a D60 Rear just converted to disc brakes, with an LSD and 4.56 gears for $250. Thats a pretty good starting point for a decent axle.

    I sold the tracloc for $100, replaced it with an ARB, bored the spindles, put 35 spline chromos in it, and a drive flange to replace the yoke. I dont think I will have to worry about it breaking.
     
  13. May 23, 2013 at 1:32 PM
    #1873
    maxamillion2345

    maxamillion2345 Go home if you don't like guns liquor and whores.

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    Tuner.
    14b

    beef 1.5 30 spline FF shafts stock
    beef 10.5 ring gear
    pinion support bearing and massive pinion
    massive carrier
    beef housing and .5 thick axle tubes
    easier to set up gears

    For my cruiser stronger is better so that's the mentality I'm going into this with. For you, maybe you'd rather have almost as strong and a little more clearance. Or maybe price.

    Just saying...
     
  14. May 23, 2013 at 3:36 PM
    #1874
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Don't forget the Dana 70, for some light weight and running under 40s a 60 would be the better choice.
     
  15. May 23, 2013 at 6:09 PM
    #1875
    thegame

    thegame WUT?

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    Also one thing to note is the 14 bolt only has gears as low as 5.38. Dana axle gears can go stupid low, lower than 6.17's I believe.
     
  16. May 23, 2013 at 6:11 PM
    #1876
    maxamillion2345

    maxamillion2345 Go home if you don't like guns liquor and whores.

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    Why the hell would you want anything that low. Yikes at pinion.
     
  17. May 23, 2013 at 7:37 PM
    #1877
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    6.17 is somewhat commonish, they make 7.17s as well. I think they were made for forklifts and other machinery, remember not all Dana/Spicer product are under a truck or jeep.
     
  18. May 23, 2013 at 7:41 PM
    #1878
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    5.38s is what the 'plan' is.
     
  19. May 23, 2013 at 7:47 PM
    #1879
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    Ok people. For 1 tons, what axles are desirable? My dad has a 3500 dually axle in the back of his truck right now. He recycles scrap metal and takes away axles often. I can probably get my axles for free.

    What am I looking for?
    What truck will these axles be found in?
    If there's no truck....how do I know I have the axles I want?
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2013
  20. May 23, 2013 at 7:58 PM
    #1880
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Any front Dana 60 unless it's a dodge cad axle is worth saving. The cad are not worth the time to sell and bring less than your normal ball joint or king pin axle. Any rear ff 8 lug axle is worth saving as well. If you see any 8.8 or dana 44 rears or non-cad dana 30 fronts they are worth keeping to sell. All dana axles will have the number (ie Dana 60 wil have 60) on the diff casting. You can also check the bom number on the axle tube. Easiest way to tell is the diff cover.
    [​IMG]
     
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