Solutions to CV Joint Binding?

Just had a temp 3" lift (strut spacer) over the weekend to fit some 285s, and now there's concern for problems with the CV Joint. Not feelin' the angle. Been reading about diff drops and been reading some hot debate in regards to it.

Unfortunately, the front shocks (Bilsteins 6112s) are on back-ordered to a date TBD. My rear 5160s are still sitting in the garage. Progressive AALs in the back with overload left in. Any way, my point is that I'm still rocking stock shocks and springs. Would those 6112s be the solution, in addition to the diff drop? What type of diff drop? Is light off-roading out of the question?

Freaking out here, man! LOL

*Forgot to mention, added some JBA UCAs too. Alignment tomorrow AM.

 

You should be fine for light Wheeling. Any issues so far?

 

The easy solution is to lower your front lift to where the axles no longer bind. IFS 4x4s are limited to how high they can be lifted before you compromise the CV axles. If they don't break from binding then the boots will rub themselves apart.

There are other ways to counter these issues...diff drops (do next to nothing IMO), high angle CV boots, limit straps, drop bracket lifts, etc.

Easiest thing to do is to keep your front lift under 3". 2.5" seens to be the happy maximum for most 4x4 Tacomas before you start running into CV issues.

Lifts don't clear tires by the way. It plays a role sure, but a small one. A balanced equation of proper wheel spacing, alignment caster, cutting and trimming are the only sure-fire way to fit bigger tires.

 

I had to do lots of cutting and trimming lol

 

That's usually what it comes down to for most no matter what generation Tacoma you own. Unless you have the perfect wheels with the right BS and don't flex the truck offroad, you might clear some skinny 33s while street driving only. But if you intend to wheel your truck and flex across ruts, rocks, shelves, etc you're gonna have to cut and chop to fit bigger tires. No way around it.

Putting your alignment caster at 3+ degrees helps a lot too from rubbing the pinch weld/cab area. I had <2° caster and was rubbing my pinch weld pretty bad even after cutting/hammering it back...getting my caster set at 3° moved the tire forward enough to clear it on all but the most flexed out obstacles, and even then it just barely grazes now

 

Yeah I did all that and with glass up front they tuck real nice. I'm on the verge of getting long travel real soon but all this CV talk has got me worried. My passenger CV already pops at full lock in reverse.