[solved] Brake line flare nuts stuck; cut hard line out, replaced with new

Nice U-bolt flip with Wheelers Superbumps.

 

I found it easier to disconnect the bracket from the frame when I did mine. Not sure if you've done that yet. Good luck!

 

Yes I did. It was suggested and it really helped. Thank you.

 

Progress is sooooooo relieving.

 

Indeed! Thank you.

Okay some more progress and another setback.

I had to split up my time working on the truck.

After I broke that nut loose on the axle bracket pictured above I had to use an unusual amount of force to keep it from leaking. Had to run some errands...

This was surprising to me because I already broken free the other nut on the axle bracket and that one required about 11 foot pounds to tighten up no leaks no problems.

Going at it again...

I broke one of the nuts free that was on the frame bracket. Really not too bad just had pop the retention clip out, position the wrenches in the right place, and press the wrenches together.



Once I had that nut broke loose i went back to the frame bracket and worked on the nut that was all buggered up.

Having already broke it loose. I figured it wouldn't be too bad to take it apart.

Unfortunately I had to continue to use the vice grips this surprised me and then I couldn't separate the joint, I got to the end of the nut and it would just spin and never come out. I tried pulling and wiggling, but no luck.

I didn't want to pull too hard worried about damaging the flare at the end of the line.

I've never had a joint not come apart like this. It seems unusual to me. I'm wondering if the factory didn't do something wrong when they assembled it.



I was worried I was gonna have the truck down, so I tried tightening it back up, it finally did. No leaks at the moment.

What a pain.

 

I got it to the point where the nut would spin on the hard line but it would not release from the soft brake line fitting.

I said to hell with it I dialed up Toyota parts in El Cajon $15 ordered new hard line it'll be here on Tuesday.

 

I have had similar issues with some of the lines on my truck. The flared end just didn't want to come out. Not without some forced persuasion. 10mm x 1.0 to -3AN fitting and new line replaced those parts. Take that Toyota.

 

lol

Thanks Tor.

Really nice to know I wasn't the only one.

And thanks for the flare pitch type and size.

 

It's certainly not a job for the faint of heart...NO insult implied, it's a f'n scary mod. Flared fittings are a nightmare to deal with. Once you get them installed if you have the time/space just let them gravity drain for a while before you seal everything up and start pumping. I hung a mirror from the hood so my wife could keep an eye on the level in the reservoir. Sure, I'm comfortable with my OCD....

 

Totally feel the same way! Terrifying to do on a daily driver. lol it really wouldn't be so bad if things went smoothly...

And I love the mirror.

My 5 year old girl was my helper. Stomping on the brakes when I checked for leaks. lol. She did great. The rubber brake lines really swell up like a balloons it was 12 inches from my face I was like holy s***.

Fortunately, I can bleed them myself with bleeder screws and the hydraulic brake booster outfitted in the off road 4x4 Tacoma. Ironically that's the easiest part of all this for me.

 

I did a ton of reading before making this thread and there are numerous complaints about the flare nuts being too tight. Which led to believe that they were being over tightened at the factory.

It does make a lot of sense to do it early in the truck's life. Mine is a 2009 and is very clean with no rust. But invariably time and moisture will take a toll, especially on a joint with exposed threads like the flare nuts or bleeder screws.

I took my bleeder screws out a while back and replace them with speed bleeders and the threads from the factory screws had corrosion. The new ones I bought are stainless. I paid extra for that hopefully they last a very very long time.

 

Good idea to clean them.

I think water gets in the threads mixing with whatever and chemistry just does its thing.

The brake fluid certainly is some nasty stuff. Just from today's work about an ounce or two dripped on the axle housing, sat for an hour and later made the paint bubble up.

X 1,000,000

I've got some braided stainless heat shrunk @OCTaco 3" longer over stock extended brake lines. He's been selling them here on TW for years.

I'm not 100% sure if I'm going to have to clearance with dremmel the brake line brackets for the new lines or not. They might fit fine... The factory clips can be bent to form a reliable secure connector according to other forum members.

 

When it's all said and done, the braking is remarkably improved with the SS lines making it worth it in the long run. Hopefully this thread helps the next poor schlub. Job well done Crom!

 

Nobody does that.

 

Of course not lol. I've never slid a flare nut on backwards on a copper refrigerant line and flared the line, either.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WuVBFTzoKc

 

WINNING

One done.




New hard line about to go in.

 

god you poor sole. good luck again @Crom

 

Finally done. Good lord. Had to cut the hard line to get it out. Unbelievable.

 

Big thanks to all who gave their advice and shared their experience and positive encouragement.