[Solved] Fuel Pump not Priming or MAF Sensor - broken down and desperate

So as we set now, the engine will turn over when key is turned, but will not actually fire up?
What DTCs is it currently throwing?

 

Ok so update, it WAS running code P1300 and P1310 and like the OP said I cleared the codes and tried to start and she did! But after 1 second I turned it off because I hadn’t tightened down the fuel line.

I came back to it right now and tried again and she started again but she was suuuuper rough, many misfires and she turned off after like 5 seconds. Now she cranks over as usual but will not start again. No new codes

 

P1300 would lead you to believe something going on with the igniter circuit, and P1310 is a malfunction of the igniter on cylinder 3.
Dying randomly while driving definitely smells like an igniter that's erratically failing.

 

but for it to go from randomly dying to flat out not getting any ignition right after I change the pump, does that make sense? And I did get a spark that last time but not any other crank after that.

Does igniter failure tell the ecm to not pump fuel or something else?

 

It makes sense only in the coincidence of it being after the fuel pump. So I'm thinking correlation not necessarily causation on that part. I definitely wouldn't say I'm absolute on that.
Unplug and clean the terminals on both ends of igniter and harness plug.
Also, if ignition is failing but ECU is still seeing the pulse signals from the crank and cam sensor I BELIEVE it will still fire the injectors and fuel. So that dying ignition/spark, meaning the spark plugs are getting wet and not burning off the fuel mix, could cause flooding symptoms. Notice extra gas smell? Next time try letting it crank and turn over a few times, and then pull a spark plug to see if it looks wet. If plug is wet, that means ECU is firing injectors which means ECU is seeing the signals from crank and cam sensors like it should.
I'm still suspecting something with the igniter, and maybe we can get one of those brainy guys to chime in here, like @DrZ help us Doc!

 

Ok! So I let her rest overnight and went to try to start her up again and she fired up! For about another 3 seconds before she stuttered and died and again I got codes 1300 and 1310.

Now that I think about it, this is the exact same startup that led me to replace my pump.....I don’t think it’s the pump anymore

 

Those same two codes again? More and more sounding like the igniter to me. Does your model Taco have a distributor or individual coil packs for each cylinder? We need the FSM for 1998 Tacoma so you can test the igniter. I'm not positive but i think the igniter for 98 is a stand alone little box unit deal.

 

Soooo I think it could be my igniters (it has 2 packs on the side of the block) or my crank sensor. I messed with the wires coming from the crank sensor and she started up for like 5 rough seconds (longer than before) then I messed with it some more and tapped in what I could of the sensor and she stayed on for like a solid minute with no stuttering or drama then turned off on her own but it was quickly which makes me think the computer turned her off again instead of a lack of fuel or a bad signal.

 

yup, definitely crank sensor. got her started again and I went and (lightly) pulled on the crank wire and she turned off for like half a second and when I flinched and let go she came right back up And ran perfect

 

That's great to hear hombre! Nice work and you should see the size of the smile on my face from you troubleshooting this out without taking it in to a shop. Awesome man

 

I appreciate it! Took me a minute but I am glad to keep my record of not dropping it off at the mechanic strong lol however quick question, do u know if it’s possible to remove the crank sensor on a 2.7 without removing the alternator?

 

Good to hear you got your issue sorted out

 

Sorry man, I don't know.
I would trust pretty good what the guys say in write ups and stuff here in the forum though.

It's sad how little real world wrenching experience I have on my 3RZ-FE because the thing is just too reliable! Change oil/filter, change air filter, change spark plugs, rinse and repeat

 

then check valve clearances to do valve adjustments every ~50 - 70k miles after about 250k

 

I’m sad to report that this might have fixed 1 issue but I got another that’s pretty similar. I’m gonna make my own post about it to leave the op alone