SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

I changed my ECT sensor. Not hard at all. Didn't drain the coolant. Just let the truck sit the night before so all of the coolant could settle. If I remember correctly, you have to take out the timing belt cover nuts and slide the cover back some. Also, you need to remove a fuel pipe that connects the fuel rails. This pipe runs right over the top of the sensor. This pipe has two fittings that need to carefully be removed. I suggest using a fitting wrench to avoid rounding the fittings.

 

Thanks Kigmob! Although I gotta admit, removing a fuel pipe sounds intimidating. But hubby's had a nice long break from the DIY route, so he's amped up and eager to attack some stuff himself, so hopefully this eagerness will overcome his concerns about what needs to be done. Your post is very helpful info, thanks again!!

By the way, how's your Taco doing lately? Any funny stuff with your AFR readings anymore, or any hot start prob's at all?

EDIT: Just re-read your post, and I'm wondering if one of those fittings are the ones that the engine dudes already f'ed up. We definitely have a fitting on a fuel something or another that was rounded off after they replaced the FPR, and also that leak in the fuel return hose/line after they replaced the FPR (that hose with leak was obviously replaced when noted). Hmmm.

EDIT #2: Do you have to do anything special as far as the fuel stuff to avoid fuel spraying everywhere? Sorry if this is a dumb question!!!!!!

 

Just put in a new starter relay, got it hot, and set timer for 30. At least we'll cross it off the list if nothing else.........

Start #1 with new starter relay - On a scale of 1-100%, with 100% being perfect, I'd give it damn near 95%! 30 min to next one.........

 

Getting the Appalachian firewater ready(orange flavor),,.

Oh hell, why wait (glug)!.

 

Start #2 w/new starter relay: 80%

Not looking promising. 7 min to next one...........

EDIT: Start #3 w/new starter relay: 85%, but I didn't drive it before that one, I just let it idle to warm up (we've noticed lately that there seems to be a correspondence between driving it before (cranks longer) vs. idling to warm up before (still abnormal crank time but better). So I drove it around a bunch this time, and she's cooking now in prep for #4.........

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSmK0DPIGUc

Fave Waylon song of the day. Enjoy!

 

Damnit. Getting worse now. #4 was 75% at best, and I feel like that's being generous/optimistic. Taking a break from testing for a bit, time for a whisky to go with this Waylon!

 

I remember you talking about that fitting and I think its the one you need to remove to get to the ECT. There are two fittings (one at each end of the pipe). In the FSM, Toyota uses one of the fittings to check fuel pressure. I got lucky the first time I took it off that I didn't round any of the fittings. I tried to take it off again recently but couldn't because I knew I would round them without the proper wrench.

My truck has been running great. Starts right up all the time. My hot start AFRs are still in the 15's but only for 30 seconds or so. I am sure it is not an issue.

And as for fuel spraying, let the truck sit overnight and no coolant or fuel should spray out. May get a few drops though.

Goodluck!!

 

Awesome, thank you so much for this helpful info Kigmob! And congrats again on licking your starting prob, that's excellent!

 

Just borrowed a nice brand of 19mm socket wrench from neighbor to attack that ECT in the morning. Thinking we can do this...

 

With the right depth socket and a universal joint or a u-joint socket, the transfer pipe between the 2 fuel rails need not be disturbed. It's very close and one brand socket/u-joint may fit while another does not.
The sensor is below the coolant level so some will come out. It's the kind of thing where if your quick and put your finger over the hole while you get the new sensor started, only a few ounces of coolant will be lost (engine cold).

 

Thanks DP!! This makes sense and is super helpful! Also stoked that we may not have to mess with any fuel stuff at all, hurray!

OK, now for the bad news:

Nice neighbor with fancy tools galore is going to be gone out of town all day.

But, the good news is:

Nice neighbor with fancy tools galore gave us his garage door code and told us to have at it, whatever we need And I do mean whatever we need - this dude has every tool under the sun, and they are all top quality.

So TW, don't hesitate to suggest things to us that require tools nicer than what Harbor Freight offers!!

EDIT: Going for the ECT sensor this morning I think, then planning to take it for a long drive when it starts raining. Verified our max towing mile allowance w/AAA - we can go 100 miles! We'll just stick to major roads and see how she does.....

 

Having trouble getting old ECT sensor out. Unplugged one fuel injector connecter to get better access, but still having trouble. This sucks. Thinking we might have to remove that fuel connector pipe. What happens when we remove that - does fuel come out?

EDIT: Just re-read Kigmob's post about this, and sounds like it'd only be a few drops coming out, since it hasn't been started since last evening. Might try that. While the threat of rain looms overhead. Good times!

EDIT #2: Also re-read DP's post, will scavenge neighbor's tools to see if different brand wrench works better first.........

 

Got it!! Tried a few different tools and got it out! New one going in now!!!

EDIT: Sun's trying to come out now too!!

EDIT #2: Taking a nice slow look at everything we can see with timing belt cover off before we button up, especially w/sun coming out.....taking some photos too, might post...

 

ok, here goes Jen, forgive me if I get too technical with the instructions.

its the doohickey connected to the whatchamacallit that hooks up to the thingamajig right next to that thingamabob, and make sure its sending the right info over to the contraption.

follow these instructions and you should have it all sorted out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqyixwqiCag

 

Oh, Jen. Jen. Jen. Jen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=o10ATCKJSBY

 

Anyone think a failing alternator could be our culprit? Is there a simple way to test alternator? Also, is it standard practice to reset the battery cable after replacing the ECT sensor?

 

You shouldn't have to disconnect the battery. Drive it. God's speed.

 

After swapping ECT sensor, took for a nice long drive on country highways, drove well, nothing odd happened at all.

2 not great/fairly bad starts since changing it, and 2 good ones - one of the good ones was nearly perfect. But the hood was lifted right before each of the 2 good ones. Which makes me wonder if something is being pinched when hood's closed that shouldn't be. How could the heat escape that quickly, if you crank it just seconds after hood is raised? Anyway, another start in ~20 min, and this time I'm gonna just barely raise the hood (basically pop it and maybe lift just a hair beyond popping it) RIGHT before/almost while cranking it, to help prove/disprove the something is being pinched vs. heat theory. When we start it that time, we're heading to the doggie park, then after that it's home for good, then maybe some more test starts/monkeying around with it, along with beer (no more driving after that, yay!).

Happy Saturday evening TW!

 

I'll second that! Enjoy a nice Saturday evening, I am.