SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

From DP, plus I remember Knuckle (and maybe more of you too) suggested this way back when also:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2141970&cc=1317633

This is the right one, right? And the gasket, how do I find that? Is it this?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2142938&cc=1317633

Mechanic just called back and said they found a Denso pump for $167, so that's why I'm questioning if these are indeed the right items. So far mechanic's parts prices have been just slightly higher than what we find online, so seems bizarre that this price ($80 + $8 for gasket) is half his price for the pump. Are there other components missing from this kit that he'd include w/his version and should be replaced ya think?

They're now saying $205 for Denso IAC, so $10 more than what he said yesterday, which is same as Amazon, so not worth fussing about on that I'm thinking. That is, assuming we wind up replacing IAC, AFTER we do the handy dandy test on it that you guys shared the steps for.

Thanks again!

 

Thank you so much for taking the time to check it out for us kigmob, really really appreciate it! Glad to have helpful input from someone who's gone through the same annoying mystery problem too!

 

Mech is right, no egr valve on the 3.4
As for the fuel pump, i drop the tank whenever its possible. Imo its alot easier than taking off the bed- IF- you know a few little tricks. Alot of times the holding straps are a very tight fit and it may seem like they will not line back up on install, I usually take a couple ratchets straps and cinch the tank into place -then install the factory straps - it makes the whole process 10x easier. As for the harness on the top of the tank, dont fight with trying to unplug any of it until the tank is l;wered down on the jack- toyota was nice enough to give you a couple extra feet of wire and hose on the harness and lines so go ahead and use it.
On the straps underneath one side has pins with cotter keys and the other has bolts- if the truck is rusty use the pins/keys to remove the straps, if its nice and clean spray the bolts down with some wd40, kroil etc (you dont want to break one) and remove it this way because when it comes time to install you can put pressure on the fastener to manipulate the strap to line up correctly and the length of the bolts give you a inch more slack on the straps to play with.
Lifting the bed will work also but you run the chance of debri falling into the tank and your working with limited space. Alot will disagree but imho its alot easier to just drop the tank.

 

No problem!

I think some early 5VZ's had EGR

Dropping the tank does't sound terrible, but If I had to do it again I would remove the entire bed, just as I did the first time. If you're gonna just lift the one side of the bed, why not take out the other 3 bolts and take the whole bed off? Then you have PLENTY of space to work (I really hate working in tight spots) and nothing above the tank that could cause debris to fall in. And if you're still worried about something in the air getting into the tank, just cover it with a rag when the pump is out. Removing the bed also allows you to thoroughly check out the rear frame and touch up any small spots that may be rusting.

 

Thanks Knuckle. All great points to consider, really appreciate it. Will review all the great advice we're getting w/husband regarding fuel pump swap and best strategies to do it.

 

You made great points about the fuel pump too kigmob. Thank you!

I am worried about rain while we're trying to do this. Do we need to wait til we're sure it's not going to rain, or even mist/drizzle (we have many different terms for rain here in Oregon!) to do fuel pump?

Starting to think that's a dumb question, as even I know you don't want water mixing w/gas....even a drop, right?

 

Back at the house?, or your mech's shop?.

 

Mod! Was hoping you'd chime in on this, as you know what I'm talking about when I say drizzle, mist, rain, showers, and 5000 other terms our poor weather dudes use.

Talking about swapping fuel pump ourselves, in the gravel driveway. Can picture getting several neighbor dudes to come help and everybody is making this sound pretty easy to do, so it's tempting. But naturally, after all this unusually dry weather we've been getting lately, it changes today. Not sure what the forecast is, but you know what it's like - even w/clear forecast, could start up w/any variance of rain any moment this time of year.

 

You promise we'll look like those people if we buy that thing? That dude's shoes are SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!!! Gonna go shopping for a pair of those for hubby right now.......just wait for the BIG THANK YOU he'll send you later Hypox! Can we also tuck our polo shirts into our shorts, which will be pulled up to our chests? YES, BEST IDEA SINCE THREAD STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On a slightly more serious note, I'm now thinking it may be a good idea to finally ask that nice neighbor if he still has his old giant boat canopy?

 

A little mist or rain while you have the tank open won't hurt anything. You get more moisture from natural condensation alone. Just try to keep it covered while you have the parts out.
Now mist or rain running down your back while you work might suck a little.
If you get some in it (the tank) or have some concern, run a bottle of HEET or other fuel moisture remover through the tank and it will take care of it.

 

Thanks BDN! So it wasn't a dumb question, AND I don't have to buy that canopy? Sweet! Thank you!

 

Do you have a garage?

I've removed boxes and they are pretty easy to lift. Screw in some eye bolts to rafters above each corner of box. 4 winch straps and you can lift it the 12 inches or so to get at fuel pump. I would do a test to see if you can loosen the bed bolts, if not, you might as well drop the tank.

 

Thanks Koditten! Will show this to husband! Nope, no garage - remember, that was one of our big reasons for not attempting to rebuild engine ourselves, or even swap engine ourselves. Some things just shouldn't be attempted in a gravel driveway with a constant threat of rain. Gonna ask neighbor about canopy though - hell, we have so much to tackle on Taco over the next few weeks/months, it would be great to have even if we don't attempt fuel pump ourselves. Thinking we will though......

 

You guys have a Ez-up shelter or a Quick Shade shelter Jen?. 10x10 stretches across ok. 12x12 is mucho better, for the coverage of the bed/cab seam and all the way back across the end of the bed, tailgate down even(camping hint). It allows you to stand up under cover by the truck and take a chair even if one so choosed. Tools can be stored alongside,,and you will still have room to spare. Weight each corner of the quick shelter down,,for the just in case. If you wait till it stops raining to do this,,you might be in to May.

Back to your Ez up shelter. Harbor freight for tarps to semi-seal yourselves in and 6 or so quick squeeze clamps around the edges where tarp and shelter meet.

Edit: just seen the boat canopy post. That would work pretty good and probably allow for a space heater for drying out areas and unthawing cold fingers. It's gonna be wet work for awhile, so some moisture in there is inevitable. Try your damdest to minimize it and crud sneaking into unwanted areas, hose ends, ect.

If you pull that tank and pump out and see alot of sediment in the bottom with the flashlight, it's going to require a pressure washer and or a steam cleaner,,a bit of time, a handful of quarters and lotsa water splashing back at you to get it rinsed/washed out properly,,then it has to dry out. So you might be spraying water and engine cleaner at the car/commercial truck wash into the tank anyways. Rinsing till clear and clean, then hair dryers in the access holes, dabbing with cloth towels inside if you can, mad gorilla shaking of the tank, listening for crumbs ratteling, blasting it till dry and clean inside. Hope and strive for a clean tank when you finally get at the pump installation hardware. A few crumbs in there will be ok, but if you see big swirls of sediment and some ugly scale scabs hanging on the top of the tank or top sides,,then see if you can snap some pictures inside so we can have a look, if it looks bad to you and yours. Again, Hope for nothing on that one because if you don't have to do that,,the better.

When the tank finally drops down, the top is going to be cruddy, sometimes really thick crud,,get that cleaned off really really good before turning any screws and clamps that allow you access to the inside of the tank.

After the work is done and the tank is back in and working like it should, I would seriously contemplate putting a new filter on after that first extra full tank is almost ran out completely(fuel light lit, or way below E). You should be absolutely clean and clear then in that tank and it should be good for the rest of it's life along with your new pump. (knock on simulated hardwood)

 

Thanks for all the input Mod!

 

DP:

DP, just read a section in Chilton manual that says 1st step in checking fuel pump is turn to "on" while someone else takes gas cap off and listens - says it should be possible to hear the pump run. Are we reading about some other truck type, or am I missing something here?

Every penny we spend beyond what's been spent at this point feels more and more like we made a bad decision from the start, so that's why I'm trying so hard to distinguish between IAC valve or fuel pump.

 

All fuel injected systems, throttle body, multiport, sequential, etc, the pump will start and run for a few seconds with the ignition in the run position. There has to be pressure to for the injectors to operate.

 

Koditten, just did this. Husband listened w/stethescope at the EFI relay, while I turned to "on" position. He heard 2 clicks when I turned to "on" then heard 1 click when turned off. Repeated this 3 times, same results all 3 times. Truck was semi warm from starting/idling a bit earlier. Do you know what this tells us? Please and thank you!

 

What does this mean exactly? Grasping at straws here. Is there something simple we can do to verify/deny how our fuel pump is operating?