SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

Yep, we'll take the construction of it seriously and be sure it's done right, definitely. Once we set our minds to building something, we are pretty hardcore about building it right. A taller section of our cedar fence has 4 x 6 PT posts, sunk 5' into the ground and concreted, installed by yours truly (with a little help from Eric!). That thing is not going anywhere anytime soon.

Cool thing is our neighbor installs garage doors for a living, and prior to that he was a framer for many, many years. He's the one I always talk about on here, that has every nice tool under the sun (currently using his super nice nailer on the gate!), and always has the perfect solution for us when we get to those hard to figure out parts of any kind of construction project. He built his own two car garage, so I imagine we'll be taking lots of tips (& tools!) from him on saving costs without compromising quality. And something tells me we'll be able to secure a deal on a garage door...

I like the clever ideas to improvise a tool to smooth out the dirt in that area!! Although I was kinda lookin forward to off roading the Taco in my own yard!! Maybe we'll have to do a bit of both approaches!!

 

I'd also suggest pulling permits as soon as possible. Around here it's a bit of a gong show to get large structures on residential property approved and if you ever need to sell the house you better have a legal garage!

 

Eric's all set up and just got started on removing the wheel bearing.

I'm about to fire up my old red Honda and pressure wash the cedar fence boards we took down, then I'll stain them and we'll build the smaller driveway gate with them!

 

it would be best to build it first, then pressure wash and stain them. why clean more then you need, or make a mistake and find you need "just one more" so your back waiting on pressure wash and stain to dry

 

Nah, those boards are nasty from many years of wet weather making them grey & dingy and gross. Gotta get all the nooks and crannies spic & span before rebuilding with them!! It's super hot/sunny here today, so they'll be dry enough to build with by tomorrow I bet. But yeah, maybe I'll stain it all after it's assembled....


Holy cow TW. Just had Eric show me where the wheel bearing and all the parts near it/connected to it are. That's alotta parts!! It's one thing for me to blab about this stuff but I really have respect for those that actually tackle the work. Grateful to have TW as a resource on these types of repairs!!

 

I suggest eric have a cold one in the shade and play with dolly while he lets you do it, nothing like hands on experience to learn this stuff

 

Also,, UPS and Fedex drivers get a "job well done" when they turn in people without permits posted as you build a large structure. Has happened in this area and others close by.

 

Yeah, building anything without a permit is dicey. Our neighbors tried to build a shed like ours (I got a permit for ours) without pulling a permit first and they ended up paying a few thousand dollars in fines, plus the shed was torn down. They still don't know who exactly called them in but considering we live a block away from the RCMP detachment it's a pretty simple guess.

 

Finally starting the drivers side wheel bearing. I jacked it up and got the tire off, and I noticed my rotor kind of just sits in place. I can move it back and forth a tiny bit. I took a little video of what I am talking about. Does this look normal to you guys? Is it just the lug nuts that keeps that rotor tight? Would this be the cause of my pulsation when doing hard braking? I appreciate any advice

 

yep, its just the wheel and lug nuts that hold it on but I "think" there should be some very thin retaining washers so it doesn't come off unless you want it to.

the 2wd rotors are bolted on but those are bolted on from the back side so changing rotors on a 2wd requires you pull off the hubs to do it

 

What he said. I took my rotors off when I did the EGCS bushing on my 2nd gen just to check out it's condition.

 

I think this is 2nd gen but it shows the brake setup for reference, it doesn't appear to have any of those thin keeper washers like drum brakes often do
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiMVzzasVCw

 

@dollysdad Did you do some brake work recently? The one funny thing is that my rotors were stuck on the hubs pretty strong with corrosion from only being outside a couple of years. It's interesting that yours were so free considering the age of the truck.

 

Normal to have slop when wheel is removed. Nothing holds rotor on except the lug nuts tightening down on the hub. Can't answer if that would cause odd noises.

 

Got my boards washed!! Looking good!

A post that's actually important coming momentarily from Dolly's Dad!!

 

Thank you guys for the support on this.

Yes, I recently did the brakes and rotors because I was getting bad brake pulsation. I am down to this part of the removal, it looks like a grease/dust cover (my manual only covers the T100 and 4 Runner at this point).

Should my next move be to stick a chisel in the corner of it and pop it off? I am assuming at some point I will see the end of the drive axle

 

This is what I did on my 2nd gen. It confused me as well:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-remove-hub-dust-caps.159958/

 

those things piss me off
such a silly little part of the procedure to cause so much grief.
I sprayed WD40 in the joint there and I swear it helped. That and I took the bench grinder to an old flathead to sharpen it and hit it with a rubber mallet working my way around.

This is a second gen, but when you get it off it should look similar to this

 

And............

Need a tool. 36mm deep socket.

Auto Zone lets you borrow them!!! Sweet!! Get in the ZONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I am down to the axle nut. When I try to turn it, the entire axle turns with it. We tried to step on the brakes, but it didn't do any good. Any suggestions?