SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

I appreciate hearing your Tundra tranny story right now K. That's a shitty situation, kinda like ours only less zeros behind the dollar sign. But same concept, and it's tough, because no one wants to feel like they're moving backwards and taking a loss on something they loved and put a lot of effort into like that. Glad it worked out for you though, sounds like you've got a sweet Tundra now, very cool. I do like those things, and we've talked about getting one, but like you, I love the 1st gen Tacos best. The one that's still being worked on. Crap, crying again.

I love your comments about how women think, first time I've smiled today! Sounds like your wife and I would get along swell. In my opinion, we're allowed to make these decisions, and don't have to justify them - cuz we're women darnit!

What do you mean about if it's not sealed now it never will be? How big of a deal is that guys? Seriously, just trying to understand as much as we can about the overall condition of the truck as we make decisions here....opinions on that would be greatly appreciated.

 

OK, 2nd time I've smiled today. Thanks Keakar! But no thanks on the Silverado - quite tempting, but I'll pass for now.

No way, we've never considered something brand new. WAY too much money. Even if we were wealthy, I think it's nuts to spend more than $400/mth on a vehicle payment. I guess if money really is no big thing for ya, maybe, but still, just seems kinda wacky to me.

Yep, totally with ya, no desire to get a 2nd gen. Being totally honest and superficial here - I just like the way the 1st gens look better! Silly, I know. But if you say they're also made better (and guessing plenty would agree since we are on the 1st gen forum after all), then I'll believe ya! It's just a tough call as to whether we'd be better off with a different 1st gen or the one we have. I'm sure there's not a ton of 1st gens around with low miles, and obviously none are young in years, so you'd risk that whole fun "trading one problem for another" scenario. Not sure.

Unless. Anybody on here have a 1st gen with low miles that they want to sell us for a rock bottom price? Did I mention how awesome you guys are?

 

there are differing opinions on how to break in a new or rebuilt engine:

Breaking in a rebuilt engine

• 1 Start the engine and let it run for about 5-10 minutes to reach operating temperature.
  
  
• 2 Drive the vehicle in a normal manner, avoiding full-throttle starts, constant speeds and "lugging" the engine (allowing the car's RPMs to decrease while strain on the engine is increasing; for instance, trying to climb a steep hill in fifth gear in a manual transmission vehicle). Stop-and-go traffic is best for this; long trips on the interstate are not. it is good to occasionally give it extra gas to accelerate quickly a few times every now and then to simulate passing other vehicles. The idea is to constantly vary the engine's speed, load, and torque, which allows newly machined parts inside the engine to adapt.
  
  
  
• 3 When the vehicle reaches 500 miles, have the oil and filter changed. Most manufacturers recommend using regular, not synthetic, oil for the break in period. Be sure to check with the mechanic who rebuilt the engine to see what type and viscosity of oil are recommended as this varies from engine to engine.
  
  
• 4 Drive the vehicle, following the instructions in Step 2, for another 500 miles. Have the oil changed again and the engine will be suitably broken in.
  
  

as to the run it at redline around 5000 rpm, I think that's just asking for trouble and could blow up your new engine but there are others who think this "blow up or last forever" test is the right way to instantly break in a new engine and find out if an engine will last or break right then and there.

so the two methods are break it in slowly or go all or nothing by redlining the engine are two different trains of thought on how to do it.

personally im on the break it in slowly side but occasionally run the rpms up high once or twice a day after the engine is fully warmed up
(like 3000 rpms max for the first 100 miles, then 3500 rpms max for the next 100 miles, and finally 3500-4000 rpms max after that)

 

Yeah, that's what they were getting at Keakar. That we should avoid constant speeds, don't use cruise control for the first however many miles, no towing, etc. But mostly trying to vary the RPMs as much as possible, including getting them up to a pretty high range regularly. He advised us to do lots of driving on country roads, rather than interstates, so we're forced to do lots of slow way down, speed up suddenly kind of driving. I guess he expected us to do that with failing injectors and a dented cam sensor. Hmmm.

 

well for what its worth its long term driving that really matters, lots of short trips not doing it as instructed isn't that important and you don't have to wonder if you did anything wrong.

all miles matter but, if you were ever able to use it regularly then that's when following the instructions becomes more important because the time that matters is after its warmed up and driving around, not short trips "as much" so don't count short trip miles as break in miles

 

If you paid the first mechanic for unsatisfactory work with a credit card you may be able to get some help from the credit card company.

 

Sounds good, I'll put this concern to rest. Thanks Keakar.

Wait, until I bring it up again on post #8 trillion and 47, cuz you know how I like to recycle my concerns and theories

 

Thank you, yes, we are leaning strongly towards this route. We called them and found out the time limit on doing this (got plenty of time), and I explained what's been going on. The lady said we definitely could dispute charges on an issue like this, and when I described the attempts we made to ask them to repair it (supposed to try to resolve with vendor 1st before getting them involved), she said it definitely sounded like we did all we could to ask those VERY NICE MECHANICS to solve the issue.

Thinking we'll do this, just not sure how it will work overall. Will call them for more info soon. But it's a bit goofy, cuz we'd be requesting that they deny portions of charges paid to the engine mechanics in amounts equivalent to money we paid a separate party (new mechanic), you know what I mean? Not sure how that would work. But, should be able to find out soon enough. First step is adding me to the account - we opened that card specifically for this situation, the good ol' 0% interest for 18 months, with the intention of never using it again - basically a free loan to pay back the engine cost in manageable amounts over 1.5 years. So with no desire to ever use it again, we didn't bother getting more than 1 card. But now I can't talk to them about the account until I have a card too. So husband and I have to BOTH go to a branch to set me up with a card, which means he's gotta take off work again. Good stuff.

But yep, I agree cosmic, I think this is ultimately going to be our best bet to end the misery quickly and hopefully get something back.

 

I think you should keep the truck and have some small victory after being run through this gauntlet for so long.

Too many other used market trucks that "Ran when parked," or "has a small vibration, probably just an alignment to fix" to make me weary of going into another bag of worms with an unknown vehicle. If I was in your shoes, I know if I'd spent so much time, money, energy, and grey hairs on this truck and I got rid of it, the first minor issue with the replacement vehicle would annoy the hell out of me.

 

This is an excellent point Pee Runner. I can't even imagine the state I'd be in actually handing over the keys to someone else for the last time. No way.

You know what, it's good that I put this out there today to all of you that we were thinking of selling, cuz even just hearing a hint from anyone of "maybe you should" made me realize WAIT! I don't want to do that, I love this thing, concerns and all! Ah hell, I don't know. When I was thinking sell earlier, that was more my brain talking after a fresh night's sleep. Now it's all straight from the heart stuff leading my thoughts. Hmmm. Heart or brain guys? Which one should decide the Taco's fate?

 

On hold with Visa, going to see if we can skip going in together to get a 2nd card, so that I can get going on disputing charges ASAP. Also scheduled a consult with an attorney for tomorrow afternoon - hoping to avoid icky legal battle/court/attorney stuff, but figure it's worth getting their advice at least. Feeling empowered from all of the support I've gotten on here all day, not gonna take this laying down. Thanks guys.

 

I was hoping you would come back to keeping it, after all your almost done with the labor pains (long and painfull as it was) so you may as well enjoy the baby truck you just gave birth to before you start all over again

I honestly think odds are good that what you have now is going to outlast and be better then buying an unknown replacement, but this is based on assuming the engine will be good for another 200k miles

 

Most of your break-in is right when it first fires up,,those first few minutes as it comes up to temperature.

The rest is just good practice on a new motor.

It's broke in now. If it made it 200 miles, it should be good for it's life.

Swap out the engine oil when you get it back regardless of the "break-in" miles left or slight overage of that. It is important to swap out that break in oil. You don't want to go 3000 miles on it.

 

Oh my god. The sensor didn't fix it.

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...50F-NV1uPj_-yocUg&sig2=bKbHgQ1ilwen15mRSfqGYg

This is the break in procedure I follow. Most people think its crazy to run the bag off of a brand spankin new engine but Ive had great results with it. An highly respected engine builder I know swears by it and I have been using it for a while now.

 

The cam sensor didnt fix the issue?

 

Nope. He even bought a new crank sensor on his own dime to swap out, just in case. Nothing. The poor guy sounded like he was ready to cry on the phone, he is so frustrated and determined to fix it. Can't believe this.

 

He's flying to Florida tomorrow, his brother is dying from heart problems. He said he's hoping to get back in a week, and plans to try a different ECM next. He said he reset something (I wish I understood this shit more!) and wants us to drive it as much as we can, a few hundred miles, some interstate driving to get it up above 55mph, then something about a "mode 6" where he'd be able to see stuff he hasn't yet somehow? Really didn't get it, but it sure sounded like he knew what he was talking about, seriously fancy ECM code sensor crap. He was beating himself up that he didn't do this sooner and apologizing. I just can't get mad at this guy ever, he's just too damn honest and dedicated to helping us!

Someone really incredible nice is helping me out on the ECM thing, basically donating their Taco's brain for mine to have a transplant. Now I'm sobbing tears of gratitude.

 

here you go jen, smile

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FigEkpFCyT0

 

Jen, You really need to have the original engine guys correct this issue. Your truck NEVER did this before the engine problem.

Now that you have a new engine, this bullshit with lazy warm starts surfaces.... That is completely unacceptable IMHO.

They didn't mind taking thousands of dollars from you, you damn well better not think you're imposing on them to correct the new issue.

Drop the truck off and ask them to get the engine running/starting the way it should be. Get what you paid for. Don't get taken.