SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

By shudder do you mean a short rough idle? If so I'd have the mechanic check the MAF and Catalytic converters when he gets back because those are two common causes for that on old electronic injection trucks. The MAF could be related to starter issues to I suppose, but not the Cats.

 

Thank you! MAF - another vote for something fishy going on with it. Hmmm.

Forgot to mention, I don't notice any significant jumps in the RPMs with this "shudder" thing, they stay fairly steady or move maybe just a tad on Scan Gauge.

What is short rough idle? Wait, I'm googling it!

 

My old '92 (22-RE, different motor completely) would sometimes do an occasional quick shake sitting at idle, I never thought anything of it and never had any problems.

The one RockAuto return I had to do was really easy for me -- I ordered a headlight that arrived broken, and they told me to not even bother sending it back, just sent me another one.

Side note, I noticed BamaToy mentioned using engines from JIS in Dallas. I got a long block 20R from them for the '77 Celica I am rebuilding, started on the first crank and has been really solid so far. No real miles yet since I am not done, but it runs great (much better since I ditched the stock carb for a Weber and eliminated the emissions and 20 feet of vacuum tubing).

 

I won't mind a bit, still working on the first batch.

 

A shudder is an engine miss, momentary, and enough to feel, but not enough to drop RPM...

Is it a fuel or ignition miss? Unless the wire to an injector is bad it is probably a ignition miss. I would look at spark plug wires...

Unless...a valve is sticking.

Howard

 

A valve sticking - I don't think it could be that, because our new mechanic took off the....

OK, help me out here - are the valves under the DOHC or vice versa?

Whichever is on top, he took off - and it's gotta be something that's semi time consuming and/or PITA cuz husband was like, wow, can't believe he even did that!

Anyway, he took whichever's on top off and inspected whichever is below and all was fine

 

Not a constant stick, but an intermittent one. Were your cylinder heads rebuilt, replaced or reused?

Howard

 

Supposedly they put in a different motor than ours that had been already remanufactured. And the engine mechanic told me when we were first calling them that they machine heads that it's reasonable to do so with. So I'm guessing it's someone else's old rebuilt cylinder head.

EDIT: Wait, so hetkind, you are saying if an "ignition miss" then new plug wires would be the most likely cure?

Is there some special term for the wires going to the fuel injectors? Where do those wires originate from?

Also, what purpose exactly do the coil packs serve? (plain English please!) They work in relation with the plugs to create spark, right? So does that mean the coil packs are constantly working, not just when the truck is first started?

 

did you buy a short block or a long block? The last motor I bought came completely reassembled with the oil pan and valve cover on...

 

Dressed long block, so it included timing belt, water pump, etc.

Our old oil pan was reused....

Don't know anything about valve covers, might have something in my notes from my first few calls with them though....

Also, when I put that stuff in my R Auto shopping cart, a message came up asking if we wanted one of these too: Ignition Coil Connector - what does that do?

 

Amphibians in the back yard; no problem. When they start moving into the kitchen a problem may be developing.

 

You don't need to disconnect the battery.

 

the coil packs are what produce the spark, they send a lot of current through the plug wires to "fire" them when the ECM tells it to.

there are two engine types you buy, the short block is just the block itself with everything in it, the long block includes the heads too.

as far as I know everything else must be transferred over from your old engine. this means your head or heads (whichever applies), valve covers, timing covers, oil pan, all pulleys & belts plus accessories (PS & a/c).

the long block includes the head or heads so it comes with the timing belt and related hardware and cover already installed

and as mentioned, to replace the coils plugs and wires you just open the hood and do it, you don't need to disconnect the battery to do these things

 

Keakar, don't insult me like that - you know I know the diff between a short block and long block!!!

 

The taco is lurching now. Did it this morning once, and I thought maybe I imagined it. But then just went to the park, and it did it again, and this time I'm certain it was lurching. I was fucking terrified driving home just now, thinking perhaps our new engine was about to explode. Someone please help us, good god!

Just called the "good" toyota dealer to see when the "good" tech is in, not til Monday. Don't know guys. Too friggin much. Time to start drinking.

 

Part of me was actually happy when it lurched though, cuz that's what it was doing in '07 right before the coil packs & wires were replaced.

Been trying all day to figure out if I've got the right shit in the fucking RA cart.

 

jen, if you have a coil going out it might be causing a lurch as the engine loses power at those cylinders. this is actually a good thing, even though it doesn't seam like it now. small subtle things going on are always a lot harder puzzle to solve then more pronounced issues.

be happy tonight because but now you have a more predominant reaction going on with the truck to help you solve this thing.

why don't you wait until you replace the coils before committing it to the dealerships shop.

plus some thing to look at over the weekend, the lurching might possibly be fuel pump, fuel pump fuse, or FPR, related based on the premis you are losing fuel pressure

 

just called the other "good" dealer and asked who their best guy is, got a total fucking runaround, got transferred to a service advisor, started explaining to him, he wanted to know why we're not going back to engine guys, got to explain that whole fucking spiel, then he had to go to help a customer, supposed to be calling me back but they still haven't told me who's the best guy, and tried to give me the bs about how they are all good blah blah blah

 

i wasn't born yesterday, TELL ME WHO!!!!!!

 

i agree keakar, lurching supports coil packs/wires, but still trying to figure out what to get at rock auto, if anyone with a 5vzfe could PLEASE help me figure that out that would be MUCH APPRECIATED, will repost what i've got in the cart and my questions that apply to it now...