SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

I WISH SO BAD YOU GUYS, ESPECIALLY YOU GUYS THAT HAVE BEEN HERE FOR US FROM THE START COULD BE HERE TO CELEBRATE THIS MOMENT WITH US!!!!!! PLEASE PLEASE STAY TUNED!!!

 

Exciting! Feels great to have some positive results, doesn't it?!

 

Maybe the engine builder used two different brands...depending on internal stock...

Howard

 

Truer words have never been spoken man!!!

Not gonna jinx it, there'll be plenty of time for this later, but I will have a WHOLE LOT to say about the irony of all this if this is it.....hmmm, why is it that I'm fairly sure that doesn't surprise any of you?

Dude, you guys gotta stay tuned, I took a video of the start we just did and you'll get to hear me screaming OMG OMG OMG just like the original video way back from one of the first 10 pages, remember? Except that one was WTF WTF WTF instead of OMG OMG OMG

 

UN-BE-FUCKING-LIEVABLE!


I hope that was it!!!!

 

Hehe....got to love it...

When I finally did the deed, I still was skeptical because everytime I replaced the plugs it would go away for awhile, but it always came back...anyway, it has been fine since early spring last year when I did the deed....

Still, to this day, everytime I fire her up in the morning I think about it, but it is getting real faint now.....

Simple shiza sometimes can baffle...

 

Oh guys, I don't even know how to tell you this, I feel like I'm letting all of you down. It didn't work. Excessive cranking when IAT was 82. I'm still not losing hope that this is it though, we gotta wait for til we have 2 more new coil packs to be sure I think. And we did pick up a new ECT sensor since it was only $18 for OEM, so we might still put that on today. And we've stilll got the whole thermostat/jiggle valve thing to tackle. Then MAF would be next if no change with those things. And at least we've still got a trustworthy mechanic to lean on if all of our stuff doesn't do it. I'm sorry guys, I actually feel like I let all of you down. I see so many familiar "faces" viewing the thread right now, I feel the support from all of you, I'm sorry to deliver bad news once again. Not giving up though. We'll get there. And there's no question in my mind that just changing that one coil pack DID make some kind of difference, with the IGN value being higher, and the good start a bit ago. We'll get there. Stay with us guys, we'll need ya more it looks like.....

 

OK, new plan.....screw Denso, I'm gonna run up to auto zone and get a 2nd aftermarket coil pack for $70 bucks like the one we just put in at #3, so we can put it at #5, because those are the 2 that seems to us are the worst of the 3, based on what the plugs looked like (plugs 1 & 2 looked best overall of all 6). Then we've got the 3rd denso coil pack coming from R Auto tuesday still. Meanwhile, husband's gonna read about how to change out ECT sensor. I

If anybody has experience on our motor changing that sensor and cares to give us any pointers, please share! thanks guys, and again, sorry for the let down, thanks for sticking by us....

PS- do you think changing out the ECT sensor (while the truck is off) will effect the mechanics mode 6 reading? aka...will it set a code if we swap it out real quick?

 

I'm back...that PS was from my husband, told him to post any questions he had on here himself while i was at autozone.....he read about changing that, and saw that you gotta have the truck ice cold, remove timing cover, blah blah blah, so we still might do it, but not til tomorrow due to it being hot and will get dark soon (brought him home from neighbor, figured we'd imposed on them enough for one weekend). Anyway, husband is putting another new coil pack at #5 right now, then we'll talk more about if/when to do ECT sensor.

Do you guys think changing that would screw up what our mechanic is trying to accomplish with resetting ECM? Not sure if I even care or not, I see the value of what he's doing, but I'm also just so eager to get this thing fixed NOW.

And I am worried about what we might be damaging by allowing it to repeatedly crank like that, so not sure about getting miles on it to do ECM test until we're sure it's not about to freaking explode or something. Seems like we could always repeat ECM reset test later, worst case, right?

 

bummer

 

Not happy to hear that.

 

So, the truck was NOT at full temp when it didn't want to re-start? I'm starting to think something in the EGR system EGR switching valve? (but believe me...I could be wrong)

1996-2000 Toyota Tacoma Vacuum Valve - Denso W0133-1955342

 

As you already know (Since I read the rest of the posts) it doesn't matter the color. It just has to have the correct anti-corrosive ingredients. I have had green coolant from Autozone in my engine since I built it and have had ZERO issues.

Sorry to hear that your engine still has issues. I tell you though you are gonna get your new mechanic to just shake his head for messing with all of that stuff! Hahaha. Hopefully you will get it fixed anyway before he gets back!

 

Thanks guys.

Steve, I don't think we have an EGR valve. That's what we've been told by a few people, one of which being current mechanic, although the dealer parts guy was able to quote me a price on a replacement one, so who knows? Thanks for the input, we're not ruling this out til we can prove to ourselves if we do/don't have it.

Anyone know if we have VSV on our FPR? Pulldo has mentioned checking that a couple times....I'm honestly not sure if we have that or not......and I honestly can't remember if we spoke with our mechanic about it....

Bama, I hear ya about messing with stuff when instructed not to. I am concerned about that, but at the same time, it could be weeks before he returns, we really have no way of knowing, because I don't want to call and ask him for obvious reasons. And we kinda had no choice on switching the plug wires/coil packs, because it's pretty clear that stuff was causing the lurching/rough idle, and very well may have led to another piston hole if we'd kept driving it as is as he instructed us to. Also had to get the oil changed, which he knew. And once we did all that, it started feeling like, screw this, it's our truck, and even though this stuff didn't fix the hot start issue, it needed to be done anyway, and it felt good to actually look at/do some stuff ourselves instead of hoping we were communicating clearly with whoever was telling us what they'd done. Hell, even the nice neighbor who hooked us up with this mechanic was telling us, "screw that, it's your truck, do what you want to do" - so that's how we're leaning. Hoping what he's trying to do could be repeated again later if need be. I don't know. I guess I don't understand what it means to "reset" the ECM. How is that different from "flashing" it? How is it different from deleting codes?

Tonight we checked the MAF per the FSM instructions. Did a voltmeter on it (borrowed neighbor's super nice one) and results were in spec. Then the FSM says to blow on it while it's hooked up to voltmeter, and if any fluctuation in voltage then it tells you it's working. It passed both those tests, so we're ruling it out. Even though I'd still really like to find out why we have a different one now and were never told about that change.

Tomorrow husband is going to drain coolant, install new thermostat & ECT sensor, then he's going to remove the skid plate under the truck to look for a ground wire for the starter, and also try disconnecting that stupid AFR gauge they put in to see if any diff. Starting between steps of course to see if anything is making a diff. Also I remember DP posting a simple way to check charcoal canister, may do that too.

If anybody has any suggestions of simple stuff we can check at home, speak now!!!

I think that's why I'm coping so well with the disappointment from today - it feels totally different when you are able to do stuff yourself. No worrying about what you might be paying for someone else to do it, no hoping like hell you actually understood EXACTLY what their test method was, once you get into something that's this much of a PITA to diagnose, no wondering when you'll get a call with an update. Even though we're still left with the same issue unresolved, I'm glad we have another day left in the weekend to take a second crack at it. It's been soooo hard for both of us to keep going through these agonizing waiting periods, with no call when we were supposed to get one, then finally the call comes and it's bad news. Totally different ballgame when you can control the timing of what you're doing, and see instant results of what was checked, and never question the results again - you either know you did it right, or not. No middle ground that leads to, should we recheck blah blah type crap. Know what I mean?

Thank you guys, happy Saturday night! Time for a movie, homemade bacon cheeseburgers, sweet potato fries, and another Buffalo Trace & gingerale. See you tomorrow!

EDIT: K, you gotta try the Buffalo Trace whiskey - we clearly have similar taste in liquor, so I'm positive you'll love this stuff! Exact same price as J & B too! Plus hetkind likes it, so that's two votes - ya gotta try it!

 

ok, after seeing the picture blown up you can see it has a boot already on it.

I thought, and I think she did too, that maybe you didn't get new boots already mounted on the new coils and it definitely didn't say anything about the coil having new boots on them.

i've learned long ago if they don't say something comes with a part then done expect it to be on the part when it arrives and since the boots are sold separately it was a grey area for those of us who didn't know for certain.

 

I think you are correct you don't have an egr valve but do have the air switching valve. The throttle body and idle air control valve are nice and clean?

 

Thanks Steve!

OK, so no EGR valve, but we do have the "air switching valve"? What the heck is that?

TB & IAC valve are ruled out - cleaned, tested, good to go. But thank you for suggesting it!! keep 'em coming!!

 

that's the valve when the dog farts in the truck on a rainy day the air switching valve switches out the air inside the truck so you don't pass out

or maybe not

 

Forget the air switching valve. You don't have code p0412 running rich. Here's hoping for success.

 

I was in the booze store thinking about that. I couldn't remember what it was called at the time. I just added that booze to my shopping list. Now I can see if booze store has it.

I find it ironic, that I'm writing about booze while sitting on an exercise bicycle.