SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

We're also gonna do DP's thing he mentioned way back when to check the charcoal canister, and also try disconnecting the AFR gauge to see if any difference. Starting in between steps of course. But he'll be starting it in just a few here after coolant is in, so I gotta make sure I'm out there for that!! Back in a few....

Koditten, yes, husband changed radiator & thermostat ~5 years ago, so I guess its possible the radiator is f'ed up somehow, but I doubt it, as 5 years doesn't seem very long to me.

 

HOLY FUCK!! WE FOUND HTE CULPRIT!!!

OUR TRUCK IS RETARDED!! NNOT KIDDING!!! HUSBAND JUST FOUND THE TIMING IS WAY OFF!! HAVE NO LCUE WHAT THE HELL TO DO ABOUT THAT BUT ATA ELAST WE IDENTIFIED THE ISSUE!!

 

What does this mean guys? Please don't tell me we have to go back to them, nooooooooooooooooooooo

 

Really, nobody? I can take it if we have to go back there, just someone please tell us what this means! He used a timing light and hooked it up to the battery and the #1 ignition coil plug wire then shone the light at the tick mark thingy that has numbers on it and it was way off. Neighbor who is mechanically inclined (the one with all the great tools) came over and verified what husband was seeing. So we're 99.9% sure it was off and this has got to be the problem but we know all of zero about what this means/how to correct it. I'm searching FSM to learn about it now, but please, if someone has any input on what this means/how to correct it, please please please tell us no matter if it's something crappy or not, please!!!

 

OK, just took all FSM timing related shit out to him, and he's seeing something about putting it in neutral and jumping something to fully test I guess????? So maybe we're wrong about the above post???? Wouldn't be the first time!! Can't blame us for getting excited when we think we found something though!!! Will post more info the second he's 100% (not 99.9%!) about the results he's seeing....

 

I was under the impression that it has been tested and confirmed especially on the 3.4 that if the giggke valve isn't set correctly it would result in at lest a 5 degree increase in engine temp.... I know 5° isn't much but it is a difference...

 

OK, he put in in neutral per FSM and it's still retarded! Neighbor said he wouldn't advise doing the jumping it thing (i'm sure I'm not explaining that correctly - maybe you know what I'm trying to say?) because our new mechanic has a special tool to do that correctly or something, so we're not doing that. But husband is still convinced the timing is retarded. What the hell does this mean guys?

 

You changed the cam position sensor?

 

Yes. Husband was thinking perhaps the retarded timing could mean a problem with the knock sensor?

Thanks for feeling it with us Steve!!

Googling the piss out of retarded timing 5vzfe now.....

 

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/way-advance-timing-5vz-fe-237537/

Yotatech thread on this....sounds like maybe ECM is f'ed up? Or?????? Not even sure I understand what I just read?

 

the FSM says to use a jumper wire between TE1 and E1 on the under hood data link connector. i don't have a toyota hand held tester, just scan gauge II connected to DLC3.

TW, is this safe (the jumper wires), or do you think i might zap something in the system?

FSM says the reading without the jumper wire in place should read anywhere from 3-19 degrees. the reading i am getting appears to be far north of 25.

thank you,

crazy electrode lady's husband

EDIT: just saw what my own husband called me on the internet.....someone else is getting their ass kicked now too

 

Knock sensor, ECU, between the two I think therein lies your problem, this so sounds like electrical nightmares...

 

Any luck since resetting the timing? Retarded timing can cause running and starting issues...and I fully support Buffalo Trace, while drinking Evan Williams today...

 

How do we reset the timing?

 

there is no adjusting the timing. the ECU does it. As long as the timing belt was installed correctly, not much you can do.

You can disconnect the battery to reset the ECU.

 

Koditten, ya think there's any point in trying to swap the knock sensor next?

Also, ya think there's any chance that the timing seems weird now (but maybe wasn't before) since we swapped the coil packs, and now ECM/sensors are adjusting timing to new coil packs? Meaning, any point in driving a bit close to home and see what happens?

Also, looks in FSM like there are 2 knock sensors, does this sound right to you/everyone out there?

 

Honestly, I'm not sure.

Unless that knock sensor is sending a signal to change the timing, when it really shouldn't be, is about all I can think of.

 

Quoting an article I found about distrbutorless ignition systems, it seems like since we replaced our coil packs without disconnecting the battery cable, the computer might still think we have the same old coils on there. do you think maybe we should go ahead and reset the power, and see if the timing changes? here is what the article said:

Timing for the distributorless ignition system is controlled by an electronic control unit or ECU. The ECU decides the best time to fire the spark plugs.
The ECU makes its decision on the best time to fire the spark plugs based on information received from sensors such as: the MAP sensor, the throttle position sensor, cam angle sensor, crank angle sensor, engine speed sensor and coolant temperature sensor.
Once the ECU has evaluated all the sensor information it makes a decision on when to fire the spark plugs. To do this, the ECU switches the power transistors that control the primary current for each coil pack.
When the primary current is switched the coil produces a high voltage to produce a spark.
The main sensors required to produce correct timing of the spark are the crank sensors. Identification of each pair of cylinders and a signal for their triggering is provided by a dual crank sensor fixed to the engine timing cover. This contains two Hall effect switches sharing a central magnet which forms two air gaps between them.
Two concentric interrupter rings, with a number of blades and windows and mounted on the rear of the crankshaft balancer, rotate through the gaps.
The voltage signals provided allow the ignition module to identify which pair of companion cylinders must be provided with ignition.

http://www.cdxetextbook.com/electrical/ignition/distribless/distributorlesstiming.html

 

OK, called my friend Matt and described the test husband did to see that timing was retarded. He thinks maybe the timing belt was put on by one notch off, which he said would be something the ECM can't fix and would make the truck have trouble starting and run like shit.

What do you guys think? We are thinking about driving it around the block, in case there's any chance the ECM needs a chance to realize there are 3 new coil packs in.

If no change with that, we are thinking about disconnecting the battery in hopes of ECM recoginizing 3 new coil packs.

If no change with that, we are thinking about taking the timing belt off and resetting it, after reading more of course and verifying it's something we can handle ourselves, or possibly stopping at that point and going to the dealer with all hte new info.

Thoughts/opinions? Please?

 

Id start it (you say it starts and runs fine-cold?) and take it for a drive.