Some questions about different types of frame rust prevention & Gen 2.5 frame warranty.

Got a new taco 2014 72k miles, here's my frame if you want to see how it looks. Spent all it's life on unsalted roads. Image: https://imgchest.com/p/ne7bx5nvy53

Winter is coming up and I definitely will be driving on roads that I'm pretty sure they lay down a sand/salt mixture on (Northern California).

I want to keep this thing for a while so I had a few questions about the frame.

GENERAL QUESTIONS:

1. Were the newer frames better (in terms of corrosion resistance) on i.e. gen 2.5+?
2. Is it a 12yr frame warranty from date of first use? Or is it from date of first use, AND you had to get it inspected before March 2022? Or...?

FRAME PRESERVATION QUESTIONS:

1. What's the best alternative to those nasty oily undercoating's?
2. If I use something like POR15/CRC could I keep the paint touched up & expect the same results as yearly oily undercoating's? (NOTE: I work on my own vehicles, so that's the main reason I'd like to avoid those super dirty undercoating's IF at all possible.)
3. If I do have to go with something that isn't just paint, what's the best that makes the least mess? Read a lot about fluid film. Is it true that it dries to a wax-ish and won't really attract all that much dirt after a while?

Thanks in advance!

 

The good thing about the oily coatings is that they wick into the sandwiched areas of the frame, which is the same place the salt water wants to go. That's how you get the protection. You won't get that with POR15 or any type of paint. You certainly can paint any areas of concern, but most everyone here will recommend following up with Fluid Film or something of the sort.
I would recommend doing it while it's still warm out so it can creep and spread, giving you maximum protection.

 

Yeah I figured as much, I think part of me was just in denial of what I was reading (literally, everyone recommending fluid film). But better than not having a frame I guess.

Would you say fluid film offers some of the best protection while not being as messy/drippy? I read it's kind of wax like ish. Does this mean after the (solvent dries??) it won't attract a ton of dirt?

 

Fluid Film is literally lanolin which is sheep's wool fat/oil. Wear a mask/respirator if you spray it.. if you get it in your lungs you can end up with a worrisome cough.

 

Any thoughts on CRC Marine/Cosmoline based products? Goes on wet so it can "wick" into those "sandwiched" areas, completely dries, and seems to perform better than fluid film in terms of wash away resistance. But fluid film performs better w/ impact resistance as it doesn't dry.

Comparison of the two: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWHF4NoNVk

 

Answers:
1. Nope same kind of frame issues with corrosion
2. Its only for trucks registered intially in Rust belt states I believe, and 12 years from original date of purcrhase.

1. Woolwax or Fluid Film..yep, they get messy, but its worth it in the long run. Bolts will come out ALOT easier than corroded ones, and your hands will be super soft if you use woolwax.
2. Ive heard good things about the CRC stuff, but never used it. Sceptical if it "dries" to leave no residue, then is it still working?? So, cant comment on the use of CRC
3. Fluid Film is a little more "wet" than woolwax, once applied, drive down a dusty road and youll have greasy undercarriage, but it wont rust! You live in NORCAL, unless your heading into the Sierras in winter, not alot of salt on the roads, so kind of up to you as to what way you go.

 

Actually (and I may get flamed for this), after I Fluid Film, I follow it up and 'touch up' with the Dollar General brand of WD-40 type spray. It has a little more body than WD-40, but it REALLY seeps into the little sandwiched areas. It's also easy touch up on a creeper, every 5 or 6 months. I've been doing this since I bought the truck in 2015 (2014 TRD Off Road) and the frame really doesn't have any rust on it.
I always worry that Fluid Film doesn't creep enough, but it does stay put nicely.
And yes, it stays sticky but after it collects a little dust and road grime, it's not too bad. It's better than rust!

 

I think with all the input I’ve received, I’m going to CRC the entire underside, then only fluid film all the areas that need the creep, inside rocker panels, and inside cross members etc.

Hoping to get the best of both worlds, as long as the two products are compatible.

 

Don’t forget to spray inside the cross members, lower control arms and such.

 

Do you know by chance if you already have the Toyota white snot layered into your frame? Or was that only a rust belt service thing they did???

 

I do not have the snot, and the Tacoma website when looking at my VIN & service records show that it 1) Has no open recalls & 2) Did not have any frame services/frame inspections whatsoever.

I was wondering about that though, not sure if they only applied CRC & the snot stuff if you were a rust state for the Gen 2.5's

 

Im thinking I remember that it was for rust belt states only...Ill have to look for the service bulletin

 

I also spray a little into the drain holes in my doors and the weep holes in the pinch seam in the rockers. For those, use something a little thinner like the DG spray, so you don't plug the drain holes. It'll leak out for a while and will even creep up the outside of the doors but again, better than rust.

 

Toledo, OH here.... If you truly want to keep your truck for a long time, regularly rinse the vehicle with a power washer after driving on brine and salt roads.

If not, drive through a wash at least once a week during winter. Make sure it has the hot undercarriage wash.

You can't stop the frame rust, but you can definitely slow it down. Fluid Film is great for this application. If you have the money and the time, POR15 everything you can. Lift the cab, the bed, and remember to get in the frame.

Pictured is my truck. 2015/70K very heavy use. It was fully undercoated (by a bad company) and still fights rust by what I mentioned above.

Yes, this was for "high-risk-rust" areas.

 

I already have the pressure washer attachment to do that and plan on doing it. I tell myself I'm going to, but we will see when there's 12" of snow in my gravel driveway & I have to grab the pressure washer literally out of the house so the water doesn't freeze inside of it, to go pressure wash the underside of my truck while it's snowing on me lol— Every time I take it out on the roads. I'm definitely going to I care about the damn thing too much, but boy I wish there was an easier way. *Cough cough, that's your cue guys*

Pretty sweet winch & winch mount/bumper btw, which one is that?

 

I was lucky enough to have a hot/cold hose tap at my last place so the freezing wasn't really an issue. The easiest/laziest way to avoid it is going through an auto wash once a week. At one point, we actually budgeted car washes because we are just too busy.

I know I am a broken record, but besides heading to Canada and getting it done at Canadian Tire or another shop- Fluid Film, Canoil, Woolwax are your best bets without fully disassembling the vehicle. They do make Black Fluid Film and spray kits for the above so it's easier on you.

Appreciate the compliment. The bumper is a cheap Body Armor hidden winch and it's an apex 12K.

 

12 years from date of manufacture. Toyota Canada checked my month and year of build on the door sticker.

 

OP, everything you ever wanted to know about the frame corrosion issue from Toyota's standpoint:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169416-9999.pdf

I would highly recommend checking with your dealer to see if you still qualify for the above process. If you do, you not only qualify for a 12-year (from first in-service date) frame replacement warranty, but the process will ensure the boxed sections of your frame are properly protected.

 

What kind of galls me is that Toyota insists on using a subpar alloy for their frames. This has been a problem for coming up 50 years. It doesn't reflect well on the company.

 

It is not a "subpar alloy." It's a subpar finishing process.