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sound deadner

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by pinktaco808, Dec 10, 2010.

  1. Dec 10, 2010 at 7:11 PM
    #1
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 [OP] Hot Steppa

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    what are some cheap sound deadner??? how peel and seal???
     
  2. Dec 10, 2010 at 7:14 PM
    #2
    stmpjmpr

    stmpjmpr Well-Known Member

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  3. Dec 10, 2010 at 7:24 PM
    #3
    t4daddy

    t4daddy Well-Known Member

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    Peel and Seal works great, it is a little thinner than some of the audio stuff, but, at a fraction of the cost.
     
  4. Dec 10, 2010 at 7:30 PM
    #4
    SD2011Taco

    SD2011Taco N O X I O U S

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    Link to some who sells peel and seal?
     
  5. Dec 10, 2010 at 8:05 PM
    #5
    06TXED

    06TXED Well-Known Member

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    No peal and seal that crud is for roofs. Visit sounddeadnershowdown.com email don and get his products trust me. I tried fat mat (eBay) on another car and it sucked!!!! have all sds in my taco and it's the pimp shiz. Don't make that mistake been there done that
     
  6. Dec 10, 2010 at 8:15 PM
    #6
    Tat2dTaco

    Tat2dTaco He who breaks things.

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    Also take a look at Second Skin (www.secondskinaudio.com/ )
    I Ran it in my mustang and am going to run it in the Tacoma, it's really good stuff and decent price.
     
  7. Dec 16, 2010 at 1:01 PM
    #7
    mana808

    mana808 Member

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    braddah man what did u end up going with? i tryna get some too?
     
  8. Dec 16, 2010 at 1:16 PM
    #8
    hookedontronics

    hookedontronics Well-Known Member

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    DO NOT use peal and seal. It is for your roof, not your automobile!! It is 100% different from dynamat
     
  9. Dec 16, 2010 at 5:23 PM
    #9
    atsaubrey

    atsaubrey Dealer/Sales Rep for Sundown Audio.

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    DO NOT use Peel and Seal!!!!!!!!!!!! You'll hate yourself if it gets hot where you are.

    Second Skin Damplifier Pro is your best bet, a bulk Pack ($160 iirc) should handle all 4 doors and your back wall,which I consider the most important areas of our trucks then the roof then floor in that order.
     
  10. Dec 16, 2010 at 9:34 PM
    #10
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 [OP] Hot Steppa

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    looking for the cheapest sound deadner. gonna use the peel and seal for the floor
     
  11. Dec 16, 2010 at 11:16 PM
    #11
    PLC721

    PLC721 Well-Known Member

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    post a review
     
  12. Dec 16, 2010 at 11:21 PM
    #12
    lookylookitzadam

    lookylookitzadam Retrofit Club!

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    i used stick on HVAC duct insulation. Its a closed cell foam (i think) and self adhesive. Its been on for a year and is holding up great.
     
  13. Dec 17, 2010 at 8:24 PM
    #13
    C5RACNG

    C5RACNG Member

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    peel and seal is NOT a sound deadner
    why bother asking if you don't listen to the answers
     
  14. Dec 18, 2010 at 6:48 AM
    #14
    ToyoDrew

    ToyoDrew Well-Known Member

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    I'd recommend sound deadener showdown or second skin. The products and prices are comparable but I went with sound deadener showdown because Ron is a very nice and helpful guy.
     
  15. Dec 18, 2010 at 3:47 PM
    #15
    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    If you get Damplifier get the cheaper regular Damplifier. If you wan the Pro just get SDSD tiles.

    SDSD has cheap foam that is super high qulity and the butyl 3M sticky gasket tape is excellent. Half the price of the auto parts store. Many uses for it in the install I used over 1 roll and got more at an auto parts store.
     
  16. Dec 20, 2010 at 6:32 AM
    #16
    hookedontronics

    hookedontronics Well-Known Member

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    Peel and Seal is NOT a sound deadener!!! It is for patching your roof!
     
  17. Dec 20, 2010 at 6:37 AM
    #17
    hookedontronics

    hookedontronics Well-Known Member

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    Snagged this from a guy on my subaru forums


    [​IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 160KB.[​IMG]

    The scale, freshly zero'd
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    The pieces
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    May not be pretty, but I laid them on top each other and trimmed till they were all the same.

    Pics or it didnt happen.
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    [​IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 135KB.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 130KB.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 132KB.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 120KB.[​IMG]

    The black stuff is the hushmat.
     
  18. Dec 20, 2010 at 7:15 AM
    #18
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    Ok, I'll play. Let's do this one at a time so I don't confuse anyone.
    You are right about DynAmat. Very marked up product. This is why I recommend Don at SoundDeadenerShowDown and Second Skin Audio. Their stuff is more reasonable in terms of price. All three brands are good stuff though. I've used both Don's stuff and the Second Skin products and I'll continue to use Don's because I prefer it. If you need me to explain why I certainly can.

    As for the difference between Peel and Seal and REAL deadener it's quite different. Peel and seal is intended to seal things and fix small gaps in a roof. It's an asphalt based compound that melts a little in the heat. This helps it "fill in the cracks" sort of speak. True deadener is a Butyl Rubber based compound that has MUCH higher thermal properties and doesn't really release an odor. As far as I understand it, asphalt has little to no visceoelastic properties and does a poor job at turning the vibration into heat. (remember, you can't destroy energy, that's a law, you just transform it)

    Low thermal limits. If it's placed horizontally like on the floor you'll likely be ok. (Chances are your floor needs no deadening anyway. If you understand the concept you know why). However, in a vertical setting like in a door the compound reaches a temperature where it sleuths off or starts to run. I've seen it come off before and it's quite the mess. Temperatures in your door can get extremely high.

    Not only that, but the Peel and Seal stuff has a low mass/sq in ratio meaning you'll have to do more layers to equal the good stuff. And I know what you're thinking, "Steven, if it's cheap enough that I could do multiple layers isn't that the same thing?". Well yes and no. You would CERTAINLY have to do multiple layers to equal the dampening properties of a well designed, thicker deadener. But now you've created two more problems.

    The first problem is that now you have multiple points of failure. Meaning, you have deadener stuck to deadener stuck to deadener...etc. Not only that, but you have the original layer (one interfacing with the door metal) holding many times it's own weight with the addition of the other layers. But you also have to think about what your time is worth. Have you guys been inside the doors for very long? It's tight, cramped, and full of sharp edges. Doing multiple layers in that type of an environment is frustrating to put it nicely. It's not easy on the fingers either. Ever tried using a roller on a surface that's not flat or inside a door? It doesn't work. :p
     
  19. Dec 20, 2010 at 7:51 AM
    #19
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I wasn't aware you said anything offensive or out of line. I thought your post was pretty well structured in terms of a 'no bs' type of fashion.

    +repp'd to offset the haters even though I don't agree on the topic of deadener lol
     
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