sound deadner

what are some cheap sound deadner??? how peel and seal???

 

subd

 

Peel and Seal works great, it is a little thinner than some of the audio stuff, but, at a fraction of the cost.

 

Link to some who sells peel and seal?

 

No peal and seal that crud is for roofs. Visit sounddeadnershowdown.com email don and get his products trust me. I tried fat mat (eBay) on another car and it sucked!!!! have all sds in my taco and it's the pimp shiz. Don't make that mistake been there done that

 

Also take a look at Second Skin (www.secondskinaudio.com/ )
I Ran it in my mustang and am going to run it in the Tacoma, it's really good stuff and decent price.

 

braddah man what did u end up going with? i tryna get some too?

 

DO NOT use peal and seal. It is for your roof, not your automobile!! It is 100% different from dynamat

 

DO NOT use Peel and Seal!!!!!!!!!!!! You'll hate yourself if it gets hot where you are.

Second Skin Damplifier Pro is your best bet, a bulk Pack ($160 iirc) should handle all 4 doors and your back wall,which I consider the most important areas of our trucks then the roof then floor in that order.

 

looking for the cheapest sound deadner. gonna use the peel and seal for the floor

 

post a review

 

i used stick on HVAC duct insulation. Its a closed cell foam (i think) and self adhesive. Its been on for a year and is holding up great.

 

peel and seal is NOT a sound deadner
why bother asking if you don't listen to the answers

 

I'd recommend sound deadener showdown or second skin. The products and prices are comparable but I went with sound deadener showdown because Ron is a very nice and helpful guy.

 

If you get Damplifier get the cheaper regular Damplifier. If you wan the Pro just get SDSD tiles.

SDSD has cheap foam that is super high qulity and the butyl 3M sticky gasket tape is excellent. Half the price of the auto parts store. Many uses for it in the install I used over 1 roll and got more at an auto parts store.

 

Peel and Seal is NOT a sound deadener!!! It is for patching your roof!

 

Snagged this from a guy on my subaru forums


This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 160KB.

The scale, freshly zero'd
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 682x1023 and is 91KB.


The pieces
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 126KB.

May not be pretty, but I laid them on top each other and trimmed till they were all the same.

Pics or it didnt happen.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 122KB.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 135KB.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 130KB.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 132KB.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1023x682 and is 120KB.

The black stuff is the hushmat.

 

Ok, I'll play. Let's do this one at a time so I don't confuse anyone.

You are right about DynAmat. Very marked up product. This is why I recommend Don at SoundDeadenerShowDown and Second Skin Audio. Their stuff is more reasonable in terms of price. All three brands are good stuff though. I've used both Don's stuff and the Second Skin products and I'll continue to use Don's because I prefer it. If you need me to explain why I certainly can.

As for the difference between Peel and Seal and REAL deadener it's quite different. Peel and seal is intended to seal things and fix small gaps in a roof. It's an asphalt based compound that melts a little in the heat. This helps it "fill in the cracks" sort of speak. True deadener is a Butyl Rubber based compound that has MUCH higher thermal properties and doesn't really release an odor. As far as I understand it, asphalt has little to no visceoelastic properties and does a poor job at turning the vibration into heat. (remember, you can't destroy energy, that's a law, you just transform it)

Low thermal limits. If it's placed horizontally like on the floor you'll likely be ok. (Chances are your floor needs no deadening anyway. If you understand the concept you know why). However, in a vertical setting like in a door the compound reaches a temperature where it sleuths off or starts to run. I've seen it come off before and it's quite the mess. Temperatures in your door can get extremely high.

Not only that, but the Peel and Seal stuff has a low mass/sq in ratio meaning you'll have to do more layers to equal the good stuff. And I know what you're thinking, "Steven, if it's cheap enough that I could do multiple layers isn't that the same thing?". Well yes and no. You would CERTAINLY have to do multiple layers to equal the dampening properties of a well designed, thicker deadener. But now you've created two more problems.

The first problem is that now you have multiple points of failure. Meaning, you have deadener stuck to deadener stuck to deadener...etc. Not only that, but you have the original layer (one interfacing with the door metal) holding many times it's own weight with the addition of the other layers. But you also have to think about what your time is worth. Have you guys been inside the doors for very long? It's tight, cramped, and full of sharp edges. Doing multiple layers in that type of an environment is frustrating to put it nicely. It's not easy on the fingers either. Ever tried using a roller on a surface that's not flat or inside a door? It doesn't work.

 

I wasn't aware you said anything offensive or out of line. I thought your post was pretty well structured in terms of a 'no bs' type of fashion.

+repp'd to offset the haters even though I don't agree on the topic of deadener lol