Sound-proofing/sealing doors

I did 30% CLD tile coverage, on floor, rear wall, and both doors of my regular cab. I did CCF on the rear wall as well. The door panels and carpet have that fuzzy shredded yarn or whatever it is on it, and acts the same as CCF. It definitely boosted the output and clarity of my speakers, and when i close the doors, i get a nice BMW thud instead of a tinny clang. It did cut down on some harmonic road noise, but if you're looking to block noise, what you really need is to add MLV. I may have mine done at an audio shop. My motivation to dig all the interior out again is pretty low.

 

There's room, i did CLD tiles on the exterior door skin from the inside, and some CLD tiles on the inner door skin, then covered it all with CCF. Made a difference for sure, but i really need to get some MLV in there. It's tight, but if you trim it well it'll fit.

 

thank goodness reg cabs are so small.

The purple rag was under the carpet, left there by Toyota i assume.

 

So how much would I need for an Xtra Cab? Doors, sides, back, floor and roof.

 

I heard this should be enough:

http://www.raamaudio.com/package-1-...s-ofensolite-iuo-peel-and-stick-41-625-sq-ft/

I bought this one so I might have a little left over for my 2nd gen to get rid of the door rattles before I sell it:

http://www.raamaudio.com/package-2-...56-25-sq-ft-and-4-1-2-yards-of-ensolite-foam/

 

That’s what I bought too. I had some left over because my cab is so much smaller.

 

Has anyone found a way to remove the three bolt covers on the back of cab panel of an access cab. Those square covers are in tight and I don't want to mar the plastic. If they are one time use I guess I can purchase another set from Toyota. I know some of the red clips will brake and have to be replaced.

 

I noticed this same condition on the video:



now there is a huge unsupported surface covered with adhesive. does this bother anyone but me? I would take a second piece and stick it to it (glue to glue) before putting the sheet against the door.

 

I thought about it, but honestly there's no chance of the backing sagging and touching anything it could stick to. The foil on the CLD tiles is pretty robust, and does not tear easily. Adding a second piece does nothing to aid in sound reduction or vibration damping. Maybe a sheet of wax paper or kitchen foil may have been a good alternative just to avoid sticky stuff being exposed.


I live in Southern CA, vapor and water coming through the back of the door panel is of very low concern for me. I intend to go back and add MLV at some point, and that will act as a replacement vapor barrier.

 

Once the adhesive heat cycles a few times in SoCal than it will be stuck on there pretty well, and that stuff is pretty stiff.

 

I'm finishing up my interior now. More info can be seen in my build thread.

 

wow! talk about "belt & suspenders".

thorough job for sure

 

I finished doing my door, it's singular because I was only able to do one with the roll of sound skins. IMO, there's no way one could do both doors with the "door kit". It's 11sq ft, but 80" long, both doors need about a 3ft piece to cover the main metal part, and I used a bunch on the inside of the door, so I ordered another roll for the other door, right away.

May be more expensive compared to other stuff, but it came out great. The door no longer sounds hollow, and things like the handle are much quieter. I put little pieces that I noticed were rattling like the little pieces that hold the window, and the two plastic pieces for the screws that attach the door handle to the metal part of the door - put some material on the back of those to quiet them down. Basically put 6lbs of material on each door.

I'll take some pics of the other door when I do it tomorrow.

 

Solved my own question from above. I know this is for 95 to 04 and I posted this in the stereo upgrade thread but I thought adding it here for sound proofing jobs may help a 16+ access cab person. Here is how I removed the rear cab bolt covers without marking the plastic. You need 2X2 of Gorilla duct tape, a tie rap anchor self sticking, and a tie rap. Follow the pictures. Give it a smart pull and they come right out, no marks. Note that the plugs are indexed and hole specific.

 

good trick!

 

You're not supposed to cover every square inch. The CLD material is only meant ot cover like 25-30% of the sheet metal. Covering more has extremely diminishing returns, and is just wasting material.

 

Exactly.

Until the frost king lovers stroll in.

Great site explaining everything:
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

Hey Will how are you liking the results? Did you notice a good reduction in road noise?

 

noticed a pretty big difference. When i close the doors i get a dull thud instead of the tinny clunk when it was stock. My speakers seem to have more oomph to them too.

The biggest reduction was doing the back wall of the cab. Holy cow that cut down a ton of freeway noise. Doesn't help that it's immediately behind my seats in the reg cab.

I could probably get even more improvement from adding MLV, but it was definitely worth it to do the CLD tiles and CCF regardless.