Sound-proofing/sealing doors

Awesome. Once I get my mechanical maintenance/restoration projects done, doing a full sound reduction is on my list.

 

How much trouble wasnitnto remove the headliner and rear seat panels? I've bee. Wanting to don't use to my 99 for a while, but scared to pull all those panels out ..

 

Wasn't too much trouble at all. It'll be good to have a trim removing tool. Most panels are held with screws or clips. The hand bars on the window frame was probably the toughest to turn from what I remember.

 

I don't know but I sure love when my doors close with a "thud" now. Not wasted for me.

 

Not saying it’s a waste by any means. Just that you could have used a lot less material and achieved an identical result

 

I really need to do this to my reg cab. It's noisy AF on the HWY. I'm just having a hard time deciding how to go about it. I see some guys using the RAAMAT kit, others using the cheap roofing material, and some going all out with with the CLD/CCF/MLV combo. Then there's the soundskins stuff that started the thread... I had thought I was going the all out way but I just have a hard time justifying the cost. Any advice?

 

On the same boat....... Looking for the best cheapest way lol.

 

I think that if you add a decent amount of sound absorbing material, and make sure you have an airtight seal (vapor barrier), than you can't go wrong.

 

@boostedka - yea there are a lot of options to consider, if you want to do the whole cab, or just the doors, what type of material, etc. I think you should ask yourself how much time and money you want to put into it.

The biggest thing for me was how annoying the noise was from the doors. I still get some road noise (and this really annoying dash rattle that I can't seem to mitigate with stuffing foam between the windshield and dash). Also, if you do the doors, try to get every possible piece that could potentially rattle, squared away because I still had some screws/staples that were rattling with music that were still driving me crazy.

@beez - are you talking about the water seal around the door? Mine is kind of cracking and I was actually thinking about replacing that too...

Also, fyi, my right front speaker was wired wrong I realized after I installed all four new speakers. I switched the polarity of it, and wow what a difference! I'd recommend anyone doing their speakers, double check the color of the stock wiring and make sure pos to pos, neg to neg.

 

I'm talking about the thin sheet of plastic that covers the inside part of the door, between the metal and door panel. I do think that if your door seal is ripped you'll want to repair that too.

 

I just covered that whole part with sound proofing material

 

My commute is about to go from 5 miles round trip to 80 miles round trip all highway, so I have a legitimate reason to install sound dampening now.

So I can figure out costs and to make sure I order enough material, how many square feet of butyl is needed to pad a single door?
Also, I will put some heat reflective material under the carpet of my regular cab. How many square feet does it take to cover that?

 

its not a lot for the floor, maybe 25-30st/ft.

Each door is only maybe 8-9 at the MOST.

CCF and MLV are going to be the best thing you can add. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ has a TON of excellent info, plus a kit for 2nd gens, but they'll work on the first gens just fine. You'll have some extra material in case you mess up.

 

For me, I noticed that most of the annoying noise was coming from the doors so I dampened those two (and it helped). I used a whole roll of soundskins for each door with a little left over from each side.

 

FYI, I just went to https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ and there is a notice that he is retiring as of 2-1-19. The website will remain up for a year. For those interested in sound deadening you might want to copy and save some of the info to your own devices for future reference. I'm in the process of trying to quiet down my vehicle and I have found the website info to be very helpful for understanding what might work.

 

I recently did a budget job on just my doors. I used Noico 80mm on the inner and outer skins with a layer of neoprene draped over the inner skin. It definitely cut down on the road noise through the doors. I notice now that I mainly hear noise coming form the access cab area of the truck. I'm hoping to do the rear doors and back wall the same way sometime down the road. Cost about $55 to do both doors. I probably over did it with the Noico.

 

Yes, it definitely cuts the heat when you install the butylrubber then the closed cell foam on the interior roof !!! Huge difference!