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Spark Plug makers say no anti-seize

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Turp, Sep 3, 2011.

  1. Sep 16, 2011 at 10:15 AM
    #21
    wanderingwayne

    wanderingwayne Active Member

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    I've never used anti seize or a torque wrench and have never had a problem with spark plugs.
     
  2. Sep 16, 2011 at 11:41 AM
    #22
    Space Wrangler

    Space Wrangler Well-Known Member

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    anti seize definately has it's place. ....but i've never even thought about using it on spark plugs.
     
  3. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:12 AM
    #23
    armyofsquirrels

    armyofsquirrels Embrace the Suck!

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    That's a good point.
     
  4. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:20 AM
    #24
    tomwil

    tomwil Well-Known Member

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  5. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:24 AM
    #25
    totmacher

    totmacher automotive hypochondriac

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    Cut & broke off stuff. Prolific ziptie and tape usage.
    I usually tend to under torque by 5-10% whenever using something that can act as a lube on threads. With less friction, applying same torque puts more axial tensile load in shank/threads. I had issue at work with a supplier popping heads off bolts. I did the math to show how loctite was reducing friction and causing excess tension when torque wasn't reduced to account for it. Granted, it's more of an issue on small threads. Spark plugs are large enough to take a bit extra.
     
  6. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:34 AM
    #26
    127.0.0.1

    127.0.0.1 AKA ::1

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    1) ya know....

    spark plug makers and engine makers have engineering conferences on exactly how to
    design spark plugs, connections, and plug threads, and what materials and metals to use.

    2) they don't recommend anti-seize... it is for real reasons

    3) anti-seize interferes with reliable electrical connection on the thread and can induce problems
    in the coil, induce arcing, walking out of the bore......etc.

    if you change plugs on recommended interval and it has always been torqued correctly you
    ain't gonna have an issue [unless it is one of those awful ford plugs]

    anti-seize -probably- won't cause electrical issues,
    but using no anti-seize absolutely won't.
     
    Markcal likes this.
  7. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:57 AM
    #27
    KeptOnChooglin

    KeptOnChooglin Well-Known Member

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    Original NGK link no good, but I found this there:

    https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs
     
  8. Mar 24, 2016 at 7:00 AM
    #28
    KeptOnChooglin

    KeptOnChooglin Well-Known Member

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    I dont use anti-seize, but I do use a little dab of 5W-30 on the threads.
     
  9. Mar 24, 2016 at 8:12 AM
    #29
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    I only skipped through the thread I use Never Seize and change the plugs every spring!! Along with the fuel filter

    Having to cut a fuel filter off and pull heads to install thread inserts makes the added expense well worth it to me.

    It seems most times the battery as well I am getting better on batteries
     
  10. Mar 24, 2016 at 9:36 AM
    #30
    kgw

    kgw Well-Known Member

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    One more note: just watched a shop ferret out a severe miss on a youtube video. Turned out the way-too abundant amount of antiseize was causing the voltage to jump down the side of the plug, including the threads.
     
  11. Mar 24, 2016 at 10:22 AM
    #31
    pippen

    pippen that was'nt a vitamin!!

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    I use it...the link sends me to 404 but yea I don't use alot at all, just a drop or so. I also use it on lug nuts some, its great stuff when used properly! Like when I use my tap set to clean up a mangled bolt thread I put some nickel anti-seize on it. Just the way my dad taught me I guess...he's an engineer so I usually listen to him :)
     
  12. Mar 24, 2016 at 10:30 AM
    #32
    KdF

    KdF Old Rednek Type

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    Only time I use nickel Anti-seize is for the mustang with those god awful 2 piece plugs.
     
  13. Mar 24, 2016 at 10:43 AM
    #33
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    Stupid shit always happens when "reasonable" is replaced with "unreasonable". If you use a reasonable amount stupid shit won't happen.
     
  14. Apr 13, 2016 at 1:25 PM
    #34
    johnny3

    johnny3 Well-Known Member

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    Take a spark plug out that brings the threads out of the head with it, you'll use a little anti seize from that point on. The engineers can do whatever the hell they want to.
     
    KdF likes this.
  15. Apr 17, 2016 at 1:21 PM
    #35
    knayrb

    knayrb Well-Known Member

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    Use nickle based anti-seize on spark plugs and not copper based AS. Nickle is inert and makes a perfect electrical connection without any dielectric corrosion that copper will. I only use nickle based anti-seize on everything. Remember what happens to the steel lines going into your water heater from copper pipes without a dieletric connector. I don't know why they even make copper based AS as the nickle is vastly superior.
     
  16. Apr 17, 2016 at 1:27 PM
    #36
    Mush Mouse

    Mush Mouse Club Soda Not Seals

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  17. Apr 18, 2016 at 4:25 AM
    #37
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

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    Oh no, I used a tiny dab on every spark plug yesterday. You could feel when the dry threads met the anti-seize and the squeaking of threading it in stopped. I wonder what'll happen next...........same as last time, notta fuckin thing. The plugs will come out in 100k just like they did this time.
     
    Yetimetchkangmi likes this.
  18. Apr 18, 2016 at 1:36 PM
    #38
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Those engineers are not the ones fighting with stuck and broke spark plugs .

    No doubt needed something to justify there salary
     
  19. Apr 19, 2016 at 4:43 AM
    #39
    johnny3

    johnny3 Well-Known Member

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    I would think the connection between the plug & head would be at the base of the plug where it seats to the head, not the threads. There's clearance between the plug to head threads, otherwise you couldn't screw them in.
     
  20. Apr 19, 2016 at 11:42 AM
    #40
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

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    sorcery................
     

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