Spark Plugs

Always thought the new spark plugs lasted 100. Maintenance manual says change every 60k.

 

I thought the manual called for 120K spark plug change interval? I have to admit, I haven't looked too such into it since it'll be a long time before my truck needs it.

 

The old 4.0 was like that, the new trucks is iridium, much much higher intervals.

 

My 4.0 was every 30k...

 

Gotta love those copper plugs.

 

also $$$$

 

The Owners maintenance manual says 60k as does the information on the 2GR-FKS 3.5-liter engine.
The 4.0L on my older 4R said 30k and I once drove them to 100k because I mistakenly believed I had replaced them with the 100k plugs lmaoo!
But to my surprise they looked like they could have gone a little longer, unreal, true story folks I royally fooked up lmaoo!

On another twist to this story, I can't wait for the first post on how to replace the plugs on this baby. It definitely doesn't look like it will be a cake walk on the drivers side like it was on my beloved 4.0L wahhh!

Cheers!

 

I'm Canadian, I have my units mixed up, I'm surprised to see such low interval on the new 2gr, old ones were much higher.

This new 2GR will like others require the intake manifold to come off. It's easier than it looks. Although Im sure someone will find a way around it haha.

 

Even though I'm at low miles, I have some concerns about wear on my spark plugs due to all the issues I had w/ fuel trims, CPS, etc., and would love to do a "quick" swap, but the intake manifold removal looks pretty cumbersome. Would love to see a "workaround" or easier way to do this if anyone decides to replace the plugs - a write-up would be nice.

 

Yeah that's what scares me, having to take the intake manifold off. Its also what made me completely walk away from the Nissan Frontier as I can put a lot of miles to be fooling with all that chit.

Toyota are you listening??
Key word, ease of maintenance is key for great resale value and less complications or issues while in the process of doing such items.

I am however hoping only the the "intake air surge tank assembly" has to be removed and not the intake manifold too. I can make my own gasket if so required for it by getting the gasket material sheet from NAPA.

I'm surprised Toyota hasn't done that on the rear diff instead of paying rental fees for days on end for loaners while waiting for the gaskets to arrive!
Geezz!

Cheers!

 

You should be ok on the plugs bshammer0, as long as the air cleaner is clean, the fuel is top tier, and the oil is clean, they should clean themselves right up. I believe that's why my 30k plugs went 100k with no issues and could probably have gone another 30k before missing.

No worries, I'd wait
Cheers!

 

You have to remove the intake manifold to change the spark plugs ? and pull fenders to change the upper control arms. Toyota what's going on.

 

I was recording misfires for a long time, and even after I replaced my CPS, cleaned my MAF, etc., but the last few days I'm not recording misfires so hopefully if they were affected it's no longer an issue. Thanks!

 

I don't think I would want to go much more than 60k - I had a lot of friends with those ford v8's that were breaking plugs trying to remove them at 100k because they had frozen in the head. Don't want to deal with that!

 

So Toyota tech can charge 6 hours to change out plugs.

 

Pretty hilarious when you read all the "benefits" of the new engine and one of the top ones is "easier to service." Spark plugs should be one of the easiest damn things you can do - not anymore!

 

A little off topic but what is the size of the head on the factory plugs?

 

A seized plug is a tech’s worst nightmare, most of the worst case scenario can be avoided by simply doing it while the engine is completely cold , as in left overnight in the garage.
But most techs don’t have that luxury of waiting for that to happen.
I’ve seen my share of frozen plugs on Fords and Chebbies but when faced with a seized one, I’ve been able to remove it by intentionally or unintentional breaking off the ceramic and firmly tapping it all around the edges carefully as to not damage or deform the socket head with a flat nose punch all around to loosen the seizure on the threading and thoroughly blowing all the debris with compressed air before attempting to removing it by rocking it clock and counterclock moves a little at a time until lose.

I don’t think the plugs will be all that hard to remove, even though it looks very intimidating indeed at first glance lol!

But the bad is on the drivers side front and rear plugs. For the rear, once the bracket holding the insulator is removed it should come off clearing the way for the plug removal.

The front plug could offer more of a challenge, but once the engine cover is removed and the intake air surge tank assembly bracket is loosen and set aside or removed, it might just snake on outta there.
Worst case is probably removing the intake air surge assembly which doesn’t show a gasket to buy.

Hopefully it won't be as bad as it looks and the good news is, I won’t have to fight with it for a few more years.

Cheers!

 

same goes for checking transmission fluid. hell some cars make it hard just to change the headlight bulb due to confine space and hiding that one screw behind the front fender...makes me wish I still had my 4 cyl '01 camry. That engine was so easy to work on: starter, alternator, vacuum, and spark plugs all located on topside; plenty of empty space to change bulbs without removing headlight fixtures; no MAF bull shit. was just an easy engine to diagnose and work on

 

I just checked mine and they look really easy to change, I also have a spin on oil filter . was surprised to see that . I'm liking this 2.7 more and more