SPC UCA numbers help please

so last weekend this month i'm tackling my front end finally.
2012 txpro AC
pelfrey front bumper
5100
stock trd beadlock 16's



changing out stock coils for 886x on my 5100s
replacing stock UCA with my SPC
putting on my new STmaxx 255-85-16 on stock beadlocks
alignment

been looking for threads on the jobs, specifically the SPC settings.
printed out the torque spec sheets for the front end bolts and from what i understand the balljoint nut for the SPC needs to be torqued to 150ft/lbs, correct?

what should i put my SPC setting to to start? i know at least 3 degrees of caster, but should i just go right to 4 degrees or more then throw them in? 0 toe 0 camber?

any insight is appreciated, trying to eliminate CMC or pinch weld beating but will do if need be. its just fucking cold here in upstate NY this time of year

 

input?

 

Since you're in NY, there's a 99.257% chance you're going to have seized alignment cams.

 

im hoping to not have that problem but i think i may order them from the dealer and if not needed return them

 

i know more of you are running SPC arms!!

 

I set mine based on the instructions...I believe they are on their website if you don't have a paper copy.

 

It really depends. Start with the SPC ball joints rotated at the middle "+2 deg over stock" setting.

Get LCA's adjusted evenly (i like to run the rear LCA bolt slid all the way outboard, and front set to the middle of the slot) then deal with camber at the upper ball joint. Then alignment guy can fine tune camber via LCA pretty much via only having to touch the front LCA bolt.


Personally i have found a happy spot of ~ 2.4-2.8* of caster with a smidge of toe in, and just a smidge of POSITIVE (which is OEM spec) camber .2ish deg. Higher than that as far as caster steering gets heavy and pull due to road crown excessive. Lower than that the truck gets a lil wandery. I am on stock coils with ~ 1.5- 2in of lift from 5100's

 

Most likely you will have this problem, so budget another $200 or so for the cam bolts. Usually special order dealer parts are not refundable...

Anyway, there's some caster built into the arms already.

1. I would actually start at the "-2" setting on the upper ball joint.
2. Set the LCA cams for max caster to get max tire clearance and max coil clearance (front cam all the way in, rear cam all the way out).
3. Zero out toe.
4. Set camber with the slot on the UCA. Doesn't need to be precise. 0+/-1 deg is OK.

Depending on lift amt you'll end up with ~3 deg caster this way.

 

It’s much more involved than just replacing cams.

 

Post 11, matches for the most part what 3joh said. You want to move the the the tire away from the firewall

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ripcords-spruce-mica-build.552033/#post-17955767

 

so what i should aim to do is max out caster with the cam bolts first, then adjust the rest of the way with the UCA setting. but start with the UCA at around 3 degrees or so?

 

im super new when it comes to alignments and that aspect of this

 

involved how? they are on order at the dealer now, be here tomorrow so if they are seized i can pick em up

 

You have to cut through the LCA bushings with a sawzall and then either press new bushings into the LCAs with a hydraulic press or replace the whole LCAs.

 

ok i thought this was the route to go, max out on the cam bolts then little adjustments with UCA and when you say -2 i noticed there you mean the balljoint+UCA combined number?

 

oh yes, sorry forgot to mention i have moog replacements as well if needed, the whole LCA

 

Here’s the part numbers, if you want to double check the dealer parts guy’s work. You need 2 of each part number.

 

When I got my truck, the SPC arms were at position C. The 285/75/16 tires were rubbing and I didn't like the way the truck handled, especially on the highway. I moved the arms to position D and it felt better and would only rub on sharp turns over curbs. I got some 305/65/17 tires and they rubbed a little more, so I moved the arms to position E and I think the truck drives the best at this setting. I did my own tie rod adjustments after each change and had to do it multiple times to get it driving straight with the steering wheel where I wanted it. Check your tie rods and nuts to see if they are real crusty, you might need to start spraying them with WD40 or PBblaster to get them to move. But I would start at position D and see how it feels.

 

thanks for input guys, may try E setting to start and max caster at the LCA, see where its at then and go from there

 

No. I meant -2 on the ball joint, i.e. position F or G.

Coil clearance needs to be checked. Note front LCA cam position will shift the coilover position as well. After you're done with everything, jack up the truck to put the suspension into full droop. Check the ball joint boot doesn't touch the coils.

The big ball joint nut is torqued to 150 ft-lb for dry threads. Reduce to 90 ft-lb if you spray any kind of assembly lube or Fluid Film on the threads for corrosion protection. Surprisingly the nut doesn't need a lot of torque to hold camber position. On initial assembly, I didn't have a socket in that size, so I just snugged up the nut with 12"-long Knipex pliers. It didn't loosen in the 20-minute drive to the alignment shop.