Speaker and sound system upgrade - 2014 ext cab Taco

I’m going to be doing a stereo upgrade for my 2014 ext cab Tacoma. Thanks to maverick491 for your great write-up your information came in handy during the first phase of my installation. I’m thinking that this information might be useful to anyone else on the forum attempting a similar installation. I originally purchased the truck with the lowest-end audio system they offered, as I wanted to do the audio myself instead of paying 5K for the full Toyota E-tune system which I was pretty sure I would not be fully satisfied with. I have slowly been collecting components for the system. Aside from the Sub, i now have everything i need to proceed with the install.

My requirements are the following:

• The system needs to look like a stock system.
• The system needs to sound bad-ass.
• The system needs to have a sub-box that can be removed easily in case I need to use the extended cab for passengers.
• The system needs to have an adjustable sub volume so that I can easily tune it for music listening(mostly House, Drum and Bass, EDM, etc) vs talk radio, audio-books, etc.
• The system needs to sound clean with no engine noise
• The system needs to be built so that the Bass thumping does not cause unwanted power issues to the truck’s the electrical components (Lights and gauges dimming)

I’m actually pretty satisfied with the stock Head Unit that came with the truck, so I will be keeping that. I prefer to use an external Garmin GPS for navigation, so I’m not missing that feature in the head-unit. I also like the backup camera in the dash and the steering wheel controls as they are. While there may be options out there that can integrate the backup camera video as well as the steering wheel controls, etc, but I see no need for this upgrade at the moment. I usually connect to my iPhone via Blue-tooth for both audio and phone capabilities, and I’m perfectly happy with those features on the head-unit. Just about everything else in the system will be replaced/upgraded.




Phase 1 - (complete) Front door speaker swap and Dynamat installation.
The first part of the installation was to replace the crappy speakers that were installed in the doors, and to put a layer of Dynamat on the doors. I decided to take a chance on the Image Dynamics component speakers for the front doors with the included crossovers. When I removed the door panels, I was not real sure what to expect. The triangular panels that pop off next to the mirrors connect with white plastic clips. Despite being very careful when removing these, the clips fell inside of the door on both sides. Uggg. I would eventually have to use double-stick foam tape to get these to attach again. I’m really worried about these rattling inside of the door, but I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it. I tried but could not get them out.
I first tried to wire up the speakers without the crossovers. I was unsure from what I had read if the signals from the head-unit were already filtered signals, different channels, etc. After removing the stock speakers from the doors, I removed the plastic covering from the doors, and installed the Dynamat. This was really easy to do with the roller tool.
I then wired up the speakers using the wires already in the doors. On my first attempt, I left out the crossovers intentionally to see what I would end up with. The result was as expected… crappy sound with almost no sound coming out of the 6” mids and an overloaded tweeter. (i was careful not to blow the tweets) Upon further inspection/research, I figured out that the front door speakers were both getting their power from the same signal from the head-unit, not independent signal/power for each speaker.
Back to the drawing board ... I rewired the speakers this time including the crossovers. I have no plans to use my truck in deep water, so I mounted the crossovers in the doors, above the door handles where there was room. (I may go back and move these to behind the dash, but despite their warnings not to install the crossovers in the doors, every other system I’ve had was wired this way and it has never been an issue.) I figure that if I ever have that much water in my doors, I’ll have much bigger problems to deal with besides my door speakers not working. I did add some additional duct-tape to cover the connection points on the crossovers to prevent any errant water drops from the window, condensation, etc. )
With the front door speakers rewired to split the incoming signal through the crossovers(as initially instructed), the speakers sounded correct or at least as expected… underpowered, but nice and clear. The volume is now somewhat limited as the head unit just does not have enough power to handle the Image Dynamics speakers. Again, the lack of power was expected.

For additional power for the speakers, I had a couple of options. The first option was to use a large 5 channel amplifier with LF, RF, LR, RR & Sub channel, or to use two amps, one 4-channel amp for LF,RF, LR, RR and a monoblock sub amp. I went with the latter and decided to use an Alpine KTP-445Al 4-channel 45W/channel 4-Ohms amp that sits behind the head unit (hopefully). The sub will be powered by an independant amplifier which will be mounted behind either the passenger seat, or the driver’s seat, wherever I have the most room.

I have purchased an amplifier installation kit so that I would have all of the proper wires to run to the battery, head-unit, speakers, etc.

For now, the rear-door speakers have been left alone. i adjusted the signal to be more towards the front. Once I have the amp attached to the head-unit and I’m sending these 45 watts/speaker of additional power, I’ll determine if I need to replace these or not. I’m guessing that I can just adjust the speaker output to the front speakers and leave the rear speakers alone. The component speakers should produce plenty of sound in the cab without the need for any rear speakers at all. I’ll just have to see how it all works out. If the rear speakers are as crappy as the paper speakers I pulled out of the front doors, I’m sure I’ll be replacing these as well in due time. I found it strange that when I adjust the sound to the rear, the speakers sound muffled already. There are no holes precut in the back access cab doors to let the sound come through. I’d prefer not to have to cut my door panels and surface mount the rear speakers. (again… I want the instal to look like the stock sound system.)

Phase 2: Add 4x45w Alpine Amp behind head unit, as well as the Line Out converter to get a signal to the sub. Install the wiring for the subwoofer amp and install the sub volume control under the dash. I figure that as long as I have to remove the head-unit from the dash, I might as well do the install of the sub wiring at the same time.

Phase 3: Connect and install the Subwoofer Amp, and add the subwoofer and sub box to the truck and figure out where to mount the Farad. I decided to go with a single 10” 3000W subwoofer in a nicely constructed sub box from Sound Off Audio.

Phase 4: Add Rear door speakers if needed.

Phase 5: ROCK the F*** OUT...piss off the neighbors!

System parts and prices:

• Image Dynamics Component speakers for doors + Crossover, + ********* Inserts
  • $204. plus shipping
• Sub-Box from Sound off audio
  • $180. + shipping

• Sub Amp - MRX-M110 - Alpine Monoblock 1100W RMS X-Power Amplifier
  • High Efficiency Digital Circuit Design
  • Adaptive Feedback Global Modulation Topology
  • Variable Bass EQ
  • Dimension (WxHxD) in: 13-3/8'' x 2-1/4'' x 9''
  • CEA-2006 Amplifier Ratings: 650W RMS x 1 [4 ohm @14.4V ≤1% THD + N]
  • 1100W RMS x 1 [2 ohm @ 14.4V ≤ 1% THD + N]
  • S/N: 90dB (ref: 1W into 4 ohm)
  • $292 on Amazon.com
• Subwoofer - Alpine Type InchX Inch 10 Inch Swx-1043d Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohm 3,000 Watt Car Subwoofer
  • 3000W Peak power
  • Dual 4-ohm Impedance
  • $242. plus shipping on Amazon.com
• Line Out Converter -
  $13 PAC SNI35 PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter 1.2x6.25x5.9
  PAC SNI35 Adjustable 2-Channel Line Out Converter
  • Adjustable Line Output Converter
  • Use the SNI-35 when adding an amplifier to a factory radio to convert the radio's speaker level output to the lower amplifier (RCA) level input
  • Utilize Audio Transformer for Noise Isolation
  • Phase Adjusted
  • .5 dB Linearity from 20 - 20,000 Hz
  • $10.00 (Amazon.com)
• KTP-445A - Alpine 4-Channel 45W RMS X 4 at 4-Ohms Amplifier
  • Plug-and-play compact Class D amplifier for Alpine in-dash receivers
  • 45 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (CEA-2006 compliant)
  • Selectable gain switch (high/low)
  • 2-9/16"W x 1-1/2"H x 7-13/16"D
  • $111.49 (Amazon.com)
• $40 Alpine RUX-KNOB Remote Bass Level Control Knob for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6
  Alpine RUX-KNOB Remote Bass Level Control Knob for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6
  • Remote Bass Level Control Knob
  • 16-1/2" (5 meters) Connection cable
  • Plugs directly in for quick direct subwoofer control
  • Remote level controller for Alpine PDX and MRX Series amplifiers
  • Easily adjust the bass gain of your amp while seated inside
  • $29.99 (Amazon.com)
• Dynamat for doors -
  $110 Dynamat 10435 – Pre Cut Noise Dampening Kit for 2 Standard Car Doors – Easy Self Adhesive Install – Made in USA – 4 Sheets 12”x36” Each, 12 sq ft total
  Dynamat 10435 12" x 36" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Door Kit
  • $63.00 - (Amazon.com)
  • Click to open expanded view
• Installation Tool -
  $20 Dynamat 10007 Dyna-Roller Professional Heavy Duty Sound Deadener Installation Tool with Wood Handle and 2" Wide Rubber Roller – Made in USA
  Dynamat 10007 Dyna-Roller Professional Heavy Duty Sound Deadener Installation Tool with Wood Handle and 2" Wide Rubber Roller
  • $14.44 (Amazon.com)
• Extra Speaker wire (already had… needed for crossover wiring for front door speakers.)
• Amp Wiring Kit - KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit
  • 18 Feet 4 Gauge Ultra Flex Blue KCA Power Wire
  • 3 Feet 4 Gauge Ultra Flex Black KCA Ground Wire
  • One inline fuse holder with 80A AGU Fuse
  • One 17 Foot Black Bassik RCA Cable made from Oxygen Free Copper (OFC)
  • 20 Feet TCA 14 Gauge CCA Speaker Wire
  • $26.99 + 4.99 Shipping (Amazon.com)
• Soldering Iron - All connections are soldered and then covered with electrical tape.
• T-Spec V6-1-5DDC Digital Capacitor 1.5 Farad Digital
  • good for approx. 1500 watts RMS
  • Should keep my lights from dimming on big bass hits at high power consumption.

Unknowns:
Wiring diagram for my particular head unit? I doubt I’ll have matching plug-in connectors and will need this to install the head-unit amplifier. I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to figure this out on my own by following the wires to their associated speakers. I looked around on the web, but did not find anything specific to my head-unit. I’m unsure of the model number of my HU but I’m guessing it will be printed somewhere on the back of it once I get it removed.

Questions for the stereo gurus out there.
1) Am I missing anything, overlooking something? I’ll be using standard wiring protocol when possible so as to not get any extra signal interference, but any advice is appreciated.
2) Based upon the Sub amp and speaker I selected, I’m assuming that I will have more than ample low end sound. How should I wire my Sub? I’m assuming 4 Ohm not 2? This is the only area I’m a bit confused about.

I’ll try to include images for the other phases of this install.

 

I can tell you right now that the Type X sub is 'decent'. I had it and upgraded to the Type R shallow which hits WAY better and has much better SQ. If I were you I'd bump up to the Type R. Also the sub amp you have is more power than what you'll need.

Also you need to go off of RMS power, not peak. If you push the sub or speakers at peak for longer than a few minutes you'll destroy the speakers

Everything else looks good man! Can't wait to see it.

 

Thanks for the advice Aw9d. I've not yet purchased the sub, so I can still look into other alternatives. I'll check out the sub you suggested. My sub amp may be overkill, but I'm assuming I'll be able to crank it down a bit so I don't blow my speaker. Thanks!

 

Are you sure you're not confusing the Type X with a Type S? The Type X is Alpines premier subwoofer. I've never dealt with them because they're probably not worth their price tag considering comparable options such as the JL W6 series, but according to Alpines product tiers, the Type R would be a downgrade from the Type X.

Sources:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/category/subwoofers

I have heard good things about the Type X from coworkers at my old shop who have worked with them. They said they can put out some serious volume and sound decent while doing it. If they're supposedly superior to the Type R, that says a lot, too.

OP, are you planning on getting two of those amp wiring kits? And you will only be able to wire that sub woofer to 2 ohms or 8 ohms. So I'd just go with 2 ohms if I were you.

 

I only purchased 1 amp install kit. Why would I need two? My plan was to tap into the cig-lighter power for the Alpine KTP-445Al. There is a bundle of wires that came with the amp (yet unwrapped). This little amp should sit nicely behind my head-unit, so I shouldn't need any additional wires.

I've now also ordered same additional connector cables for the back of my head-unit. I thought I'd wait to see how all of the connectors go together before I purchased any additional wiring. I may just hit radio Shack for anything I'm now needing.

These are the connectors I purchased to assist with the connections to the head-unit and KTP-445Al 4 channel amp.:

$8 Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

$13 Metra 71-1761 87 - 94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

Metra 71-1761 87 - 94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

 

Oh, my bad. I overlooked the details of your selected "amp." I thought you were using an actual 4-channel power amplifier. Your bass will be pretty overwhelming if you have 1000w on that and a total of <180w on your mids/highs. I'd suggest 86'ing that power pack and getting a real amp. It's well worth the money.

 

Based on my research the

$155 ktp-445A head unit power pack

ktp-445A as listed above, is for alpine head units only, and the

$332 KTP-445u Universal Power Pack

KTP-445u is the one that can be used with any head unit, but I could be wrong. I am currently searching for the right amp to power my components while keeping my factory head unit and considered this option as well.

 

I would add the big 3 upgrade to your electrical system. With that you probably would not need the capacitor. Either way it would help the electrical system out. Google "big 3 upgrade" and you will get all the info you need. It's inexpensive too. Just my opinion.

 

How/where on the firewall did you go with the power cable for the amplifier?

 

She Gone: I think you are correct. I had already purchased this amp and will see how the install goes. I'll let you know if I can figure out how to get it working. I think the only difference is the wiring harness that ships with it, versus no wiring harness. I'll likely be removing this and using some of the aftermarket harnesses I got.

 

After researching this, I think it is a good decision. I'll probably do the 'Big 3' while installing my Amp. I will probably buy a second Amp wiring kit to do this.

 

Installation Update: I was forced to take a few months off due to some injuries(3 broken ribs in a 'drinking accident') and some side work that was sucking up all of my time.

I did decide to go with the Alpine Type X 10 Inch Swx-1043d. This thing is a beast and is indeed the top of the line for 10" Alpine subs. I'll hook it up at 2 ohms. I can't wait to hear what it sounds like, and fully expect to crank down the volume so that it doesn't overpower the door speakers which should also sound great with an additional 45 watts per channel.

The only problem with this speaker is that it did not fit into the sub-box I had ordered. (from Sound-Off Audio) Instead of using this box, I plan to use a Scosche slot ported sub box I got from Amazon for $38.00

Scosche SEV10CC 10" Slot Ported Single Subwoofer Enclosure (Grey/Black)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E476A6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have also purchased a wire crimper for 8 guage wire and additional cable end connectors needed to attach to each end of the thick 8 gauge wires. The Amp installation kit comes with two, but I already messed them up trying to crimp them with the wrong tool. I needed more anyway to include the Big-3 wiring under the hood and also to add in the capacitor to the mix.

Side note: If I don't get the results I want from the capacitor, I'll investigate adding a second battery instead. First things first though, I don't want to get ahead of myself.

I'm planning on adding the amplifier and capacitor under the drivers seat as long as they will fit. I still need to be able to remove the speaker when I have guests crammed into the extended cab...happens more often then I thought it would. ;-(

The wife is taking off on Saturday morning, so I'll have all weekend to get this up and running.

I'll try to take lots of pictures as I go.



Wish me luck!
Rebele93

 

Type r is much louder spl wise than the x

 

Yes I was thinking Type S and just read that wrong. The full size Type-R's can push out more SPL but the Type X is cleaner. Depends on what you want.

 

I agree with shaneckc ....
with a high line +45w "amp" and a top of the line sub... your gonna be really out of balance...

Balance the equipment, then use eq adjustments to fine tune

 

I beg to differ. The type x can be louder than the type R, but they are very close.

 

OK....I'm convinced. Scrapping the idea for the 45 watt/ch amp and will instead use a MRF-F300. More power to the front speakers.

I made a diagram to help me with the install.

 

your entitled to your opinion,
Every single one of our tests had the type R louder Db drag sealed on the dash

 

are you just going to use a highline out? or have you figured out a way to get an unamplified signal to the amp?

 

I'm not sure yet. I'll need to look and see if the 4-ch amp has a RCA out to the sub, and also if I can just run the speaker lines from the HU straight into the amp(I think I can). I already have a Line Out Converter -

$13 PAC SNI35 PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter 1.2x6.25x5.9

PAC SNI35 which should do the trick if the 4ch amp needs RCA in instead of just speaker wire in. I don't think I'll need it.